Fuel pump fuse location

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
When the fuel pump is working, the carburettor float would stop the flow of fuel into the carb when the fuel level is attained. When pressure builds up, the pump piston would be held in the pressurised position and that would not allow the contact points inside the pump to meet and that would cut the current flow and stopp the fuel pump from working.

Keeping the fuel pump running would not flood the carb unless the float or needle valve is faulty.

In cases of accidents, if the engine had stalled and the fuel pump is running with a ruptured fuel line, fuel would continue to be pumped out and spews out of the ruptured hose, that would be a safety hazard.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JWM1120
  • MEMBER
Gee thanks for the kick in the crotch. Quite the contrary, I do understand many mechanical things. This is an instance where I am trying to figure out exactly how the system works. Maybe my problem is I haven t given as much detail as needed. Yes, obviously the flow rate is set by the factory and when you turn the key off it no longer flows. However, with the switch powered up & the car not running, just on, the pump will flow fuel to the carburetor. Is there a check valve in the system that would stop it from flowing in this condition? This would be without the relay in the system. And yes, I know it s a safety issue the way I currently have it jumped with the switch. I m basically trying to get my car runnable while I sort out the electrical gremlin in the wiring. Can I the car with the jumper switch as a Band-Aid until I can find the source of my electrical woes?
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOTOMAN1976
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 268,000 MILES
Whereis my fuel pump relay and my fuel cutoff relay
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The fuel pump (main ) relay is located underdash just above the fuse box. It is a 7 pin grey box with brown socket points.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JWM1120
  • MEMBER
KHLow2008 - Bingo, that's what I was looking for I think.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Problem resolved?
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Your carb should stop the fuel from overflowing like KH said, if not your needle and seat or float is out of adjustemnt. Also the pump you have may have to much pressufe for your system. A carb type engine on ly uses 7psi MAX. So you woul dneed to add a regulator for it or disconnect the fuse you have going to teh relay so thepump won't run while you tinker with your electrical problem.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NANDO39
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 157 MILES
Hi, I tryed to change a bulb on the dash board and I made a short circuit applying voltage to the black wire on the dash board and blew the fuel pump fuse and after that I replace the fuse but now the car doesn't want to start. I checked to see if there was electricity in the fuel pump, fuel injector and spark plugs and there is electricity but the fuel pump does not work. What do you think is the problem?
Do you think it has anything to do with that trigering the alarm or did I damage the fuel pump?
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi nando39,

Thank you for the donation.

The fuel pump wiring is not connected when engine is not running and any wire shorting should not cause it to malfunction.

However a shorting of the ECU would cause the fuel pump not to work.

If the fuel pump does not work with voltage applied, then it is either bad or the wire circuit is open. I wuld suggest using a remote wire to test the fuel pump operations.

Did you check all the fuses? Another might be fused too.
Is the CEL showing for 2 seconds when ignition switch is turned ON?
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NANDO39
  • MEMBER
Hi thanks for the reply. I applied direct voltage from the batt to the fuel pump and it worked, all the fuses are good, and all the ignition ligths comes up when I put the key, and what is the cel?
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi nando39,

CEL = Check Engine Lamp.

Are there any sparks at the plugs? If yes, then you need to check the fuel circuit. The PGM-FI main relay might be intermittently failing resulting in no power supply to the fuel pump.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_PGMFIRelay97Accord_2.jpg



Test for power output to fuel pump for 2 seconds when igniton switch is turned ON.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NANDO39
  • MEMBER
HI, yes there is sparks at the plugs and voltage on the fuel pump plug, but fuel pump not work. Fuel pump only work only went I appied direct voltage.

P.S. SORRY, the wire that I aplied direct voltage was not the black wire on the dash boar was a white wire beside the black one behind the dash boar. That make the short circuit. Can I aplied direct + OR - vlotage to the ECU to see if the fuel pump work? Thanks
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WOODYARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 HONDA ACCORD
Electrical problem
1984 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

Help, my honda accord keeps blowing fuel pump fuses. I have already changed the fuel pump and both fuel filters. Any suggestions?
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi nando39,

I am not sure which WHITE wire you are refering to as the power supply from the PGM-FI main relay to fuel pump should be Black/Yellow.

If the white wire is rather larger in diameter, then it should be power supply from the underhood fuse box which leads to the ignition switch. If that is the case, I believe one of the fuse is blown.

I would suggest checking
Underhood fuse box
1. Fuse # 46 (15 A )
2. Fuse # 42 ( 50 A )
Underdash
3. Fuse # 13 ( 7.5 A )

I would advise against shorting or applying voltage to the ECM without understanding the wiring system first.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
Most likely caused by faulty wiring. Check harness connection at both the pump as well as the fuse box, ensure it is plugged in correctly and no damaged wiring.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NANDO39
  • MEMBER
Here is a pic of the 2 wire that I applied + voltage and I blow the fuel but I replace the fuse but no want to run. white/silver dot and a black/white line. is there a in line fuse that Im missing? I check under the hook driver and pasenger side for fuses,all Ok .


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/282543_car_2.jpg


hope you can help me
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NANDO39
  • MEMBER
Did you said a 50A fuse under dash board? I did not see a 50A, the only fuse I check are on the driver side, passenger side and under the hook.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi nando39,

No, the 50 A fuse is under hood Fuse # 42. Guess that is not the cause as it is the main power supply to the ignition switch.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_FuseBox98Accord4cylHood_1.jpg



From the connector can you please tell me the pin # location. I seem to have different wire colors for my diagrams.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_MeterConnector98Accord_1.jpg



I will do some research and see if I can pinpoint the cause.

Ok, I now understand which 2 wires you are refering to.
1. A10 = interior light circuit
2. C4 = Reverse light going to the gear shift.

From the circuit, there should be no connection to the fuse. From where did you tap the battery voltage to initially blow the fuse? What is the fuse location that blows initially?
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOCKLEBLEEDER1
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
98 Honda Accord 3.0 v-tec sometimes wont start, can this be the main relay (fuel pump) going bad? The check engine lite never comes on and there is no trouble codes.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi nando39,

I suggest we go back to the basics to understand what is happening. I would like you to provide me with some information with the following tests before we continue further.

1. Attach a test lamp to distributor Black/Yellow and turn ignition switch to ON. Battery voltage must be available.
If not, check Fuse # 1. If ok, test ignition switch black Yellow wire for voltage, must have voltage, if not switch is faulty.
If above ok, crank the engine. Voltage must be available. If not, ignition switch is faulty.
Sparks must be available at the plugs. If not, either distributor is fasulty or PCM grounding is inappropriate or PCM is faulty.

2. Attach a test lamp to PGM-FI main relay terminal # 2, ( Blue/Orange wire) Lamp must light up while cranking. If not, check fuse # 13 ( 7.5 A )

3. With ignition switch turned ON and while cranking, battery voltage must be present at terminal # 4.

4. Attach test lamp to PGM-FI relay terminal. Turn ignition switch ON. Lamp must light up for 2 seconds.
Item 1, 2 and 3 above must be ok before this test needs to be done. If no power supply, relay is faulty.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)

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