Will not stay running and stalls while driving

Tiny
FAST EDDIE 526
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 3.1L
  • V6
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
It starts, then after two to ten seconds later stalls out. I Have checked fuel pump pressure at 63-66 pounds and replaced the pressure regulator. If I spay into air intake, car will keep running. I replaced crank sensor, and oil pressure sender. The car is a Z-24 with a tuned port Injection, and I do not think it has any anti-theft. Any Help?
Sunday, July 8th, 2018 AT 11:49 AM

80 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,176 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Based on your description, it sounds like you are losing injector pulse. That is the first thing I need you to check. When it stalls, do you lose injector pulse? Here is a link showing how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

If you find that the injector pulse is lost, then I would suspect an issue with the cam sensor. The cam sensor allows the ECM to properly time spark and fuel injection. Without it working, the engine will shut down. And, since it runs if you use starting fluid, that tells me there is no fuel getting to the engine. Make sure the fuel pressure does not drop off when started.

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Monday, July 9th, 2018 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
FAST EDDIE 526
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
My determination, the current to the fuel pump is not allowed after initial start.
I ran a direct lead from battery to fuel pump, it runs, but not good.
But it will always start and shut off. Could I have purchased another bad crank sensor?
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Wednesday, July 11th, 2018 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,176 POSTS
Hi. If it is doing the same exact thing, chances are that is not the issue. I did some schematic reading for the fuel system. There are two things I noticed. The fuel pump primes the pump when the key is first turned. It starts, then you lose power. There are two things I want you to check. First, a bad oil pressure switch will shut down the pump. Once the engine hits 400 rpm, there has to be a signal from that switch. Next, there is a 20 amp in line fuel control fuse. If that is bad, this can happen.

I attached a picture of the wiring schematic were these components are located. Take a look and let me know your thoughts.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, July 11th, 2018 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
FAST EDDIE 526
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I tried to check injector pulse but it is difficult to do because the intake manifold covers them. I did check fuel pressure again, and it is okay. On the pump positive line I hooked up my meter and it continues to get power, as I start and then stalls. Now I think the injectors are not getting the signal to open and let the fuel pass through them. I am going to change my new crank sensor with another one, and I am going to add an additional ground wire from battery to the engine. Will check back after I have done this. I want to thank you guys for your time in trying to help me figure this out. It has been an ongoing problem for a long time.
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Saturday, July 14th, 2018 AT 5:54 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 54,137 POSTS
You need to remove at least one of the fuel injector connectors to see if there is power with the key one. Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Also, did you check all fuses in the car? Here is a guide and the fuse panel identifications. Check the ECM power relay as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, July 17th, 2018 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1991 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
1991 Chevy Cavalier mileage: lots. Car starts and runs fine in cold weather, but after driving for about five minutes, the engine stalls. It will crank but will not restart until the engine is cold again. Possible solutions greatly appreciated. Thanks very much.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
When your car is cold, the computer is in “open loop.” As you engine warms up, the computer switches over to “closed loop.” In open loop, the computer has a set value for each of the sensors. In closed loop, it reads the sensors and makes adjustments. Obviously when your car is in closed loop one or several sensors are not working properly. An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FRUSTRATED_STEVE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1991 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
I own a 1991 Cavalier VL 2.2L with 205000km on the odometer. Recently the car has acquired a stalling problem. It started to stall intermittantly, but it would seem the problem has been getting worse. When it stalls, I have no warning. The check engine light also does not come on. Since the stalling problem first occurred, I have noticed somewhat erratic idling. One day when I start it, it will idle very low, the next quite high under similar conditions.
Originally, I replaced the idle air control valve, spark plugs, pcv valve, and air filter. After installing a new fuel filter the car now revs excessively high to the point where I no longer feel comfortable driving it (approx. 2000rpm idle).
Any ideas where I should start?

Frustrated Steve
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FRUSTRATED_STEVE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I ended up replacing the ignition control module. Runs like a charm now, especially after replacing all those sensors unnecessarily. Seriously though, the module was in the most awckward spot. Once it was found and replaced, I am mobile again!
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FRUSTRATED_STEVE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Just when I thought everything was okay! I took my car out on the highway and after about 15 minutes of driving the car now starts to buck like its not betting enough gas. Another weird thing is that the shift light comes on everytime it starts to buck? Very strange indeed!
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+1
Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAEMS1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have had the same prodlem but I have found the answer. NOTE: Only works for 3 speed tramissions WITHOUT overdrive. What is happening is call transmission lock up. The is a wire towards the front of the car on the transmission with either a blue or black plug on it. If you unplug this plug and leave it unpluged your car should run just fine. NOTE: this must be done when the car is cold and the Lock up sensor has cooled.

Hope this helps ya.

Mark
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID DIETZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1990 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 144,000 MILES
My car started to have a slight miss once in awhile. After a month it went to running fine for awhile then running very rough and would stall. It was very hard to restart. Ive replaced the fuel and air filter the pvc valve, cleaned the egr valve replaced the plugs, wires and coils. Removed the cataltic converter and replaced the muffler. After running and driving the car for about an hour, it was running fine.I stopped at a store a few blocks from my home and shut off the engine. When I came out it took about ten minutes to start it. When it did start it back fired and ran extremly rough all the way home. It also blow out the new muffler at the seems.I installed the muffler flow from a to b.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Do a compression test, timing belt may have slipped a tooth or two.
https://www.2carpros.com/dia/how_to_check_compression.htm
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BSDBRAD
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
  • 1990 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 186,000 MILES
I filled up car drove 54 miles to destination go to leave car starts and start to take off car dies like turn ignition off and repeats couple times.

Car has spark and fuel pump working but now wont start prior to that it would start and idle raise rpm with throttle then let off it would just die. Now wont start but will run with start fluid, acts like no fuel to injectors.

What could be problem I checked fuses and fuel pump, replaced fuel filter, replaced oil sender about 3000 ago same with crankshaft sensor and knock sensor fuel pump replaced about 5000 miles ago. Please help going nuts. Thanks
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Whats the actual fuel pressure?Do you have injector pluse?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BSDBRAD
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Have not yet checked for injector pulse will try that today.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Have you checked the actual fuel pressure?Did you just see if the fuel sprays when pushing the schreader valve?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BSDBRAD
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Did injector test have power to both sides of connector full time
When turn key on.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
You shouldn't have power to both sides of the injector connector. There should be power to one side and pulsing ground on the other side.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 12:46 PM (Merged)

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