Engine Stalls While Driving Along?

Hello,

I would think the fuel pump is going out which is common on these cars here is a video and a guide to help you fix the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Here is a video to help you change the pump out.

https://youtu.be/Lhd0vd8pdBU

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Car won't stay running and the dash lights won't turn on while it's running.

Hi:
Does it start and then stall right away or can you keep it running for a short amount of time? Have you checked for diagnostic trouble codes? Here is a quick video showing how.

https://youtu.be/Cg1WO0UKIYM

What dash lights are you referring to? In a perfect world, you want them all off when it's running.

Let me know.
Joe

We have a 1996 cav Z24 that has an intermittent stalling problem. It seems to happen after the car is warm (195). The car just dies.

does it set a check engine light? when it stalls does it restart right away? if it doesnt check for fuel pressure and spark.

once it cools it will start right up. the engine turns over it just will not catch.
we have replace a crank sensor, and the starter since it sounded like it was not engaging.


[quote:ecadd14417="rhall77"]does it set a check engine light? when it stalls does it restart right away? if it doesnt check for fuel pressure and spark.[/quote:ecadd14417]

you need to check for trouble codes and see what is in the system.

my car was running ok and then started to get hot but never out of the "safe" area of the gauge and the car would stall until cool again & then repeat the cycle. as long as I was on the freeway I was ok. The check engine light code said to replace the crank shaft position sensor, did that & on first drive after repair the same thing happened again. Then the temperature gauge started pegging the "H" and still stalling. I changed the thermostat with no luck, although now I have no heat, but I did before. Cant drive the car more than 2-3 miles before it's hot & stalls. Any ideas. I have no leaking coolant or noise from the water pump. Fan is running for about 10-15 second cycles.

Hi:
If you lost heat, make sure the coolant level is full. If it is, replace the t-stat. Next, check the right front of the head (driver's side) if there is a head gasket problem, that is where they always seem to start leaking. Also, after you replaced the sensor, did the same code come back? Finally, are you sure the car is overheating and this isn't being caused by a bad temp sending unit? does the coolant boil out of the radiator? Can you hear it boiling in the engine?

Let me know.

Joe

The coolant has never "boiled" as far as I know, I guess I should not say it's "overheating" It has never blown off any steam or coolant. I'm going by the guage. Would the computer shut the car down if the temp guage is pegged at "H"??????

Hi:
I reread the orig posting. The idea that the fan is only running for 10 to 15 second at a time makes me believe the temp sending unit is bad. That is one of the reasons I asked if the car ever boiled over too. If the gauge is pegged to the H, I would think you would be seeing steam and coolant leaking from the over flow. Finally, if the temp gauge is at the H, it may shut things down.

Now the problem with the heat. Did it start after you replaced the t-stat? Are you sure you placed the t-stat in the correct direction? Were you able to bleed the air out of the system?

Joe

while going down the interstate engine just stops like it ran out of gas. after siting for a few mins. it will start back up. sometimes it will do this 2 or 3 times and sometimes it wont happen for a couple of days.

Could be a fuel pump problem or an over heating coil, best to check for spark when it fails and do a scan to test for any unresolved fault codes, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Chevy Cavalier 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 142k miles

my cavy has recently had the head gasket done head was plained,got all new gaskets the works. it was still overheating,we bleed as much air out as possible, still overheating. heater core went, replaced that. still overheating. put thermostat back in didnt bleed it now it stays at normal temp. But the big issue here is that after i got the head gasket replaced it was overheating so we replaced the radiator. after doing that it started dying on me while in motion. at first it would start right back up but run really rough. so i took it to a shop finally and they replaced throttle position sensor and the map sensor.it still wants to die. no other codes came up. this car has a mind of its own. it has been 4 months since i got the sensors replaced and the car will purr like a kitten and beg to be driven and she will drive awsome 4 about 3 days then suddenly she die out of the blue and will not start again 4 about half an hour this car has no rust no dents i love this car i dont want to get rid of it because i have so much money in it i have spent over a grand since nov last year trying to get her running. sorry 4 the story but i want you to know what has happened to it to get an idea. thank you 4 any replies. i am in much needed help. thanks so much

Have shop perform a compression test to ensure the head gasket is OK.

If OK, then next logical step is to check the ign. module. Symptoms you describe are that of a failing ign. module.

thank you very much i will try that next

Get a used ign. module from a junk yard if the compression test is OK. Make sure you ask it was from a running engine, it will save you a few bucks.

My 95 chevy cavalier has been shutting off without notice.The battery light is on sometimes. Once i shut of my car i can not turn back on. It doesn't even make a noise, it is alomst like the engine is not even making effort to turn on. My fan is no longer worker either. I took my car to auto zone to read my computer and they said the machine confirmed that the computer was off, is that even possible? There are also a wire near or sticking out of the starter that is throwing static. There is also a light that symbolizes water that has been turing on but I do not know what that is. WHen my heater is on I can hear the air lose strength when i stop and gain strength when i move. When my car shuts off while driving my key stays stuck, i cannot move it anyway cause it just wont move. Sometimes when my car shuts off and I can move the key, the radio stays on even when the car is supposed to be completely off. Can you tell me what is wrong wit my car?

Make sure the battery has a full charge and all battery connections are clean and tight, coming and going. What was the actual trouble code number? Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything turned off. The generic spec for a full charge is 12.6 volts. Leave the leads at battery posts, have a helper turn key to crank, what is the voltage reading, how much of a drop? If it drops to zero, usually the battery or cables causing a problem. Can't rule out the starter at the moment. If no voltage drop at all, open circuit somewhere. If you are fully obd1 compliant, you can check your own trouble codes.

When you turn on the key, do the dash lites come on?

my car dies at stop signs after coming off the freeway

does it jerk bad and then die? or just shut off? does it start right back up?

[quote:4564af2f2a="mastertechtim"]does it jerk bad and then die? or just shut off? does it start right back up?[/quote:4564af2f2a]
it just dies when i restart when i put it in gear . yes it starts up and i can rev up the motor and when i get it going it jerks then it goes fine

you have a bad torque converter clutch solenoid in the transmission. on the older transmissions you coulod just unplug the white plug on the transmission and that qould take care of the problem but im not sure on the 95. you might as well try. looking down at the transmission from under the hood look towards the front of vehicle(transmission) and you will see a white plug about 1inch square. unplg it and drive the vehicle, if it still shifts fine then your all set, if not then you need to replace the solinoid

1995 chevrolet cavalier - Then stalls and will not start till engine cools down. Car will run but after about 10-15 miles will stall out and not start back up again for about an hour. Then will run fine and then stall out again after the same 10-15 miles.

Here are some walk through diagnostics for your situation. Yi=ou will find overlap in them as they have common issues that cause the problem. Sounds like it might be your coolant sensor but here are some additional tests,
Just follow the links below;

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

my car dies after i have driven it for about 30 minuties when i stop i can wait about 10 to 15 minuties then i can take off

when it dies you need to test fuel pressure, spark and injector pulse and see what it is loosing.

Have the ignition module tested. When the modules heat up on these cars, it has a tendency to shut the car off. If it does it constantly, then you may have a fuel pump issue. Since there is no pintle valve on the car to check pressure at the time it dies, shut the car off and turn the key to the on position and listen to see if the pump kicks back on.