Will not start

Tiny
POPPYJACK
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 189,000 MILES
I turned off my truck went out thirty minutes later to leave. The truck would not start. My friend said it does not sound like the fuel pump is kicking on. I changed the fuel pump, filter. I am getting fuel to the fuel rail. Another friend told me it could be no spark. I changed the plugs, rotor button, cap, wires, coil. Still will not start. It will turn over but will not start. What else can I try?
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Wednesday, June 16th, 2010 AT 5:15 PM

59 Replies

Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hey Poppyjack,

It sounds like it is the EFI relay has let go which is common on these trucks. Here is a guide to help confirm the issue and the location of the relay in the diagrams below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken
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Sunday, December 4th, 2016 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
EDCPUS
  • MEMBER
Yes! I was having the same problem and bam! All fixed thanks you guys I love this site.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:45 PM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 160,000 MILES
Engine turns over, has gas, squirted engine starter fluid in, replaced rotor and distributor cap, igniter unit, fuses tested okay. I just replaced clutch and pressure plate had test drive and was doing fine, then shut off.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
First off do not use starter fluid on your engine it is hard on them, use carburetor or injector spray cleaner instead. Now tell me does it have spark?
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
No it does not have spark, pulled a plug wire and turned engine over no spark through the wire.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Okay, if you would pull the coil wire off and use a screwdriver and put it in the end and put it near metal and crank it over and see if there is spark coming from the coil wire. What we are doing here is taking the cap and rotor out to the equation. Let me know what you find.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
Did the coil with screwdriver test, no spark from the coil. Should I replace the coil? I am on a very limited budget. Already replaced the cap and rotor and igniter.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HAFAADAI
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 189,000 MILES
Will not start during the morning or when it rained. In other words when the engine is cold. Engine would start at around 0830/0930 hours when the sun starting to get hot. Will not start at night also. Cracked loose the fuel pipe at the left hand delivery pipe when it will not start and there is no fuel coming out of the fuel pipe, but ignition is firing.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
With a limited budget lets test it first if you can. If you have a digital ohm meter or can borrow one then lets check it. The primary resistance should be .4 to .5 ohms and the secondary resistance should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms. I have included pictures below. The first is how to check the primary resistance and the second one it how to check the secondary resistance. If any of it is not as I have said it should be then replace the coil. Let me know how it goes. I also must ask do you have power to the positive side of the coil with key on?

Primary test.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_160.jpg



Secondary test.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic1_18.jpg

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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Check fuel pressure with a gauge, your pump may be bad.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
Tried the coil test and it was out of tolerance. Replaced coil with new one still no spark. There is power going in to new coil but none coming out.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
I have power going to both sides of coil with key on when it is hooked up and outgoing side is unplugged to check for spark there is none going out.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
You did replace the igniter that is ontop of the coil right? Did you replace anything else inside the distributor or? Get back to me so we can do some more testing.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
As in my first post I said I replaced the distributor and rotor with a new one and replaced the igniter with a used one from junk yard cannot afford a brand new one. Please let me know what the next 3-4 steps are like if this does not work then try this and if that does not try that.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FRAMESCR8PINTOY
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 TOYOTA PICKUP
Four cylinder two wheel drive manual 177,000 miles.

I am having issues with my truck not turning over. I was driving the truck one day and sitting at idle, I then went to accelerate and the truck stalled. It would not start up after that. After getting it home and being able to look at it, found that there is no spark. After searching around on the web I found some suggestions to first switch out the distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires, my plugs were still pretty new, did that and nothing still. Next was possibly a bad coil, got another to try, still nothing, next after finally tracking one down, I replaced the igniter plus a different coil. Still not starting. I am not getting any check engine lights or codes, I have checked the rotor pickup coil for proper resistance as the Haynes manual says, I get 12 volts to one side of the ignition coil. Any ideas?
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Okay, now that I know that you replaced what I know to be the igniter (you would be surprised at what some think it is) with the tests you have run with the results that you have said you have the igniter you purchased at the wrecking yard is bad. I would see if the wrecking yard would exchange it. There is one test to do check for continuity between the negative side of the coil (use previous picture) and the body of the igniter if there is continuity the igniter is bad. Let me know what you find.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FRAMESCR8PINTOY
  • MEMBER
How do I go about testing those wires? What am I testing for? Continuity?
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
Put in new igniter and still does not start. I am out of options now what.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Short to ground and an open wire.
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Okay, so how many volts are at the positive side of the coil with key on? How many volts are at the negative side of the coil with key on? Now how many volts are at those points when cranking? Also, tell me how much power is at the igniter both with key on and cranking. Now I also need to know what the resistance is of the coil wire. If all this checks out then we will be checking the signal from the ECU which usually will set a code 14. I would also like you to check the resistance at the pickup coil. Unplug the distributor and follow the picture below to do the test. Now check ohms between the following terminals. Between term G1 and G, then G2 and G and then NE and G. Let me know what the ohms are there. Get back to me with the needed information and we will take it to the next step from there.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_162.jpg

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Sunday, July 22nd, 2018 AT 1:46 PM (Merged)

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