1991 Toyota Pickup refuses to start

Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 160,000 MILES
Engine turns over, has gas, squirted engine starter fluid in, replaced rotor and distributer cap, igniter unit, fuses tested okay, just replaced clutch and pressure plate had test drive and was doing fine, then died.
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Sunday, November 29th, 2009 AT 2:28 PM

18 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
First off don't use starter fluid on your engine it is hard on them, use carb or injector spray cleaner instead ok. Now tell me does it have spark?
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Monday, November 30th, 2009 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
No it does not have spark, pulled a plug wire and turned engine over no spark thru the wire
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2009 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok if you would pull the coil wire off and use a screwdriver and put it in the end and put it near metal and crank it over and see if there is spark coming from the coil wire. What we are doing here is taking the cap and rotor out to the equation. Let me know what you find.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2009 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
Did the coil with screwdriver test, no spark from the coil. Should I replace the coil? I am on a very limited budget. Already replaced the cap and rotor and igniter
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2009 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
With a limited budget lets test it first if you can. If you have a digital ohm meter or can borrow one then lets check it. The primary resistance should be .4 to .5 ohms and the secondary resistance should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms. I have included pics below. The first is how to check the primary resistance and the second one it how to check the secondary resistance. If any of it is not as I have said it should be then replace the coil. Let me know how it goes. I also must ask do you have power to the positive side of the coil with key on?

Primary test.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_160.jpg



Secondary test.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic1_18.jpg

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Friday, December 4th, 2009 AT 9:56 AM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
Tried the coil test and it was out of tolerance. Replaced coil with new one stilll no spark there is power going in to new coil but none coming out
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
I have power going to both sides of coil with key on when it is hooked up and outgoing side is unplugged to check for spark there is none going out
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 1:44 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
You did replace the igniter that is ontop of the coil right? Did you replace anything else inside the distributor or? Get back to me so we can do some more testing.
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Monday, December 7th, 2009 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
As in my first post I said I replaced the distributor and rotor with a new one and replaced the igniter with a used one from junk yard cannot afford a brand new one. Please let me know what the next 3-4 steps are like if this doesn't work then try this and if that doesn't try that.
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Monday, December 7th, 2009 AT 12:48 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok now that I know that you replaced what I know to be the ignitor (you would be supprised at what some think it is) with the tests you have run with the results that you have said you have the ignitor you puchased at the wrecking yard is bad. I would see if the wrecking yard would exchange it. There is one test to do check for continuity between the neg side of the coil (use previous pic) and the body of the ignitor if there is continuity the ignitor is bad. Let me know what you find.
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-1
Tuesday, December 8th, 2009 AT 10:12 AM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
Put in new igniter and still doesn't start. I am out of options now what.
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Wednesday, December 9th, 2009 AT 11:06 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok so how many volts are at the positive side of the coil with key on? How many volts are at the neg. side of the coil with key on? Now how many volts are at those points when cranking? Also tell me how much power is at the ignitor both with key on and cranking. Now I also need to know what the resistance is of the coil wire. If all this checks out then we will be checking the signal from the ECU which usually will set a code 14. I would also like you to check the resistance at the pickup coil. Unplug the distributor and follow the pic below to do the test. Now check ohms between the following terminals. Between term G1 and G, then G2 and G and then NE and G. Let me know what the ohms are there. Get back to me with the needed info and we will take it to the next step from there.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_162.jpg

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Thursday, December 10th, 2009 AT 9:58 AM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
Well, while doing the tests you mentioned, we noticed that when cranking the engine, the rotor doesn't move, time gear belt busted?
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Well I would say that if the distributor rotor don't turn that yes the timing belt is probably broke. You will have to pull the upper belt cover and check to see if the belt is turning when cranking or not. Here is a pic of what all is in there. If you find a broken belt I would plan on the belt the tensioner and idlers and water pump sense the belt drive the water pump.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_165.jpg

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Saturday, December 12th, 2009 AT 9:19 AM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
After I replace the belt what are the timing positions for the crank and drive shaft?
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Saturday, December 12th, 2009 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Here is the timing marks. If you need anything else just let me know. Also let me know the outcome ok.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic1_19.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_166.jpg

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Tuesday, December 15th, 2009 AT 10:23 AM
Tiny
MARYANNLANE1
  • MEMBER
Thanks got it running, but still runs a little rough, how can I adjust it so it runs smooth? Plugs and plug wires are new, spark plugs are gapped properly, new igniter and coil and distributor and rotor. Was timed digitally, so anything else I can do?
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2009 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok if you would do a compression test just so we know where it all stands. These engines do have a head gasket problem on the right (passanger) side. Most are on recall. So first things first check compression and lets take it from there.
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Wednesday, December 16th, 2009 AT 10:10 AM

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