No spark?

Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
Most likely a bad ignitor. Actually the 90-92 Corolla are one of the most dependable they made.

The only problem they had was the exhaust manifold cracking due to a bad shield design. This was recalled and replaced with a shield that has slits cut into it for better heat dissapation.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SQUEEGE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1990 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 188,000 MILES
1990 corolla with no spark. Good coil good pick-up coil, power to the igniter with ignition on. Could it be a bad fuel injection relay?
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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Double check the Ignitor the fuel injector relay has nothing to do with spark then again it doesn't exist.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SQUEEGE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
IS THERE A way to ohm the ignitor for resistance. Could this be a grounding problem.
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+1
Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Might also be the Igt and Igf circuits or the computer itself. Test the distributor pick-up coil resistances before you do above.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SQUEEGE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1990 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 188,000 MILES
I have no spark. Replaced ignition switch, 2 different ecu's and 2 different distributor assmblies. Ignition coil is also new Every thing ohms out fine. Checked wiring for obvious problems. Car ran good a couple weeks ago but died and now have no spark. I noticed that the "check engine light" is not on during cranking or with the key in the on position. I also was checking the relays and noticed that the Main Engine Relay and the Efi/f/htr relay pulling in when you turn the key on but don't disengage when the key is turned off. This doesn't seem right. This is got we going nuts as I desperately need this car back on the road asap.
Thanks
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
You must have a shorted or open connection between the distributor and ECU here is a guide and the ignition system wiring diagrams so you can do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

Cheers
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SQUEEGE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks for the guide and diagram I found the black wire not connecting so I ran a new wire and it fired right up ! Ya! I love this site
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAYNEMC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1989 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 27,400 MILES
I have gotten new plugs wires and distributor. It tries to turn over but there is no spark coming out of it at all.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Can you give me a little more detail about where you are not getting spark? Clearly it is not getting to the plugs but when you say it is not come out at all, do you mean it is not coming out of the distributor? If not, take a look at the wiring diagram and we need to track the spark back through the coil and igniter. I have seen a number of Toyota's that have an issue with the igniter so we need to find where we have voltage and where we do not in this system and that will tell us where the issue is.

Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PHILLIPJB87
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1989 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 310,000 MILES
Hello I have a 1989 corolla sr5 309,000 miles. I will start at the beginning of the problems. Was about to drive to MI from TN, was on the interstate for thirty minutes and the car started overheating. I let it cool and added a little water I had to it. On the drive back home the temp was still higher than normal around 75-85% of gauge but was not overheating. Parked the car for two hours decided I needed a new thermostat and a coolant flush because of how rusty the coolant was. Drove the car 20 minutes to auto store, car was operating normally, not running hot was at normal temp. Flushed the coolant system and replaced thermostat later that evening, started the car everything was fine temperature was normal, car ran for approx. 10-15 minutes windows starting fogging up because of the humid weather so I turned ac on and within 10-15 seconds the car idled down and stalled. Then the car would not start back up. Turned ac off still not starting. It is getting fuel, no spark though. Please help
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Start with basics. With the mileage, do a compression test. If the timing belt failed, it would not have spark.

If it does have compression, it may have a bad rotor or cap and further, the distributor may have failed.

Roy
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PHILLIPJB87
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have inspected the rotor and cap both look like they are in good shape, could it be the coil? I checked voltage at the connector that runs wires to the coil and it was showing 12.4 volts with the key turned on, not cranking. Not sure if this helps or if its relevant.
Thank you for your help!
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Did you check the compression?

12 volts to the coil on the plus side. The negative should pulsate a test light while cranking. If it does, most likely a bad coil. If it does not, then it is a control issue

Roy
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PHILLIPJB87
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have not checked the compression as of now because I dont have a compression test tool, also I dont have a test light just a volt meter. Thank you again for your help I am desperate to get this fixed!
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PHILLIPJB87
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have checked all fuses, unplugged and plugged back in all relays. I will check to see if camshaft is turning when being cranked as soon as I have an extra hand. Thank you again for your help Roy. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Phil
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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Think, Ignitor too! After you check the distributor pick-up coil resistances-without the Ne- and G signals the computer will not tell the ignitor to fire the coil if it doesn't get the Igt signal
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PHILLIPJB87
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks for everyones help! Turned out to be a bad coil. The coil showed 9.34 for resistance vs. The new one at 11.7. Thanks again
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Your welcome -that's what were here for-TY for using 2carpros
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM (Merged)

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