1992 Toyota Camry Air Bag Light Stays ON, never been deploy

Tiny
ANIMALFARM
  • 1992 TOYOTA CAMRY

Electrical problem
1992 Toyota Camry 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 180K miles

Worked out of town too long, came back battery DEAD. Replaced battery, car now had "parking lights staying on" problem, all switches off, key removed. Soooo... I tried using the Haynes schematics to Isolate a power source to kill juice to the lights until I could spend more time and fix the problem. No Go on pulling fuses, the lights stayed ON when "LOGICAL" steps were followed, didn't want to disconnect btty and glitch computer. So, during this process I pulled ALL fuses one by one like an idiot including AIRBAG system fuse. Ok. Parking light problem is gone and has not returned, but now my AIRBAG LIGHT stays on constantly. I assume that I introduced a "power transient" to the airbag system, causing this. How do I reset the system? The car has never been wrecked, airbag never deployed. Need to get car inspected, don't want to be taken to cleaners by dealer...


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/286555_schwarzens_dog_2.jpg

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Sunday, December 14th, 2008 AT 7:27 PM

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Tiny
ANIMALFARM
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Bottom line - I pulled the fuse and then put it back after inspecting it on Airbag circuit with battery connected. Did this cause my AirBag light to now stay on constantly when car on? How can I "reset computer/Fault code" myself? I don't have a hand-held code reader at this point.

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Monday, December 15th, 2008 AT 4:33 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
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What I can find it looks like what you need to do is disconnect the neg batt. Cable for about 1 min. By removing the fuse you triggered a power supply difference that is say a power surg. See air bag systems have a 1 min backup power supply so if you are in a crash because it dies the air bag will still work for the first minute. So by doing this with the neg cable you will also drain the backup power and this should reset it. Let me know how it goes.

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Monday, December 15th, 2008 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
JASONRAY
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The best thing to do is have the computer accessed and determine what code is stored. If the light is ON, there should be a code. It's a '92 model so this may not be as easy as it sounds. You'll probably have to take it somewhere that has a scanner that will access the diagnostics part of the computer. Some independant shops, like the one I work at, have such equipment but some don't. You could call around and ask before you take it anywhere. The code will usually direct you in the right direction as to what's going on and why the light is on. As far as what you've done, I don't see anything in the diagram that should cause the light to stay on simply by pulling the fuse however, these systems can sometimes be very sensitive and that could actually send it for a loop. So my advice is to take it to a shop and have the code read and go from there. I'll be happy to attempt to help you once you get that code.

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Monday, December 15th, 2008 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
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Will try the Negative Btty cable option first, see what happens. I have no doubt that I inadvertantly introduced a glitch that generated a code. Does the Camry have an "Self-diagnostic" program that outputs codes as a series of flashing lights seperated by pauses? I also own a Jeep Cherokee Country, and have used the Jeep self-diagnostic function in the past. The Camry is new territory for me. I can easily repair the Jeep, but the Camry has so much #$!*&%#$$ Crammed into the engine compartment. Oh, yeah - any way to change the rear Spark Plugs on this V-6 without resorting to pulling the Intake manifold? I haven't owned this one for long, so it's learn as I go. Will Report back with detailed results so others might benefit. Thanks for responding!

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Monday, December 15th, 2008 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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Have you tried disconnecting the battery negative terminal and wait ten seconds then reconnect it, if that doesn't work locate the diagnostic connector under the hood and make a jumper wire and connect it between the terminals Tc and E1, then read the code of the air bag light. t will blink a number of times giving the trouble code, for instance a code 16 would be one flash of the light followed by six, give it a try and let ne know the result.

Year range: 1990 to 2000

Locations: Near the left hand strut tower.
Near the right hand strut tower.
Near windscreen wiper motor or airflow meter wiring harness.
Right-hand side of firewall.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/52960_PNG_18_BASIC_1.png



Use This Connector >
Diagnostic Link Connector No. 16


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/52960_PNG_16_BASIC_1.png


Year range: 1988 to 1996

Locations: Near the left hand strut tower.
Near the right hand strut tower.
Next to the airflow meter or battery.
Under the drivers side dash panel.

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Monday, December 15th, 2008 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
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Tried disconnecting the Negative battery cable for 3 minutes, reconnected, bur Air Bag light still stays on after starting car and letting run far beyond the 6 seconds or so it's supposed to take until it goes out. I am assuming that the fuse is still ok. Heh, heh. Pull the neg. Cable and check fuse again?

Racefan, are you sure the airbag btty is good only for 1 min?

Jnovack, I did find the diagnostic connector by the lefthand/passenger side strut tower, even says "diagnostics" on the top. (Connector is rectangular) But since it's now 11pm and 16 degrees out, I'll have to hold off with the jumper check until. I'll look in my haynes and chilton manuals to see which terminals are Tc and E1, unless you know off the top of your head. I assume the code response will be instant, so I'll need another person to watch the airbag light?

Jasonray, probably could take it to a shop, but what kind of average $$$ are we talking about? Besides I really like "figgerin'" these thing out myself, if possible.

I WILL respond back as soon as possible, so if I don't post immediately, please don't give up on me, I appreciate the help tremendously!

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Monday, December 15th, 2008 AT 11:31 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
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Please just start with what I have asked buy removing the neg bat cable as I have already explained and if that don't change anything then we will take it from there. Thanks and get back to me if you need any more help. Have a Great day.

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Tuesday, December 16th, 2008 AT 10:05 AM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
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Racefan, I did remove btty cable, no difference. See my post prior from 9:31pm last nigt.

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Tuesday, December 16th, 2008 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
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I would call around to your local parts stores to see if any of them do free scan's a lot of them do. I would go and have them scan it so you can get the code from it and we can see what the computer it telling about why the light is on.

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Tuesday, December 16th, 2008 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/52960_Toyota_1.jpg



here are the locations to jump

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Tuesday, December 16th, 2008 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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It also sounds like the clock sring has gone out it is easy to replace but lets see what codes you get

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Tuesday, December 16th, 2008 AT 2:55 PM
Tiny
JASONRAY
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Man, you're getting a lot of help. I'm gonna stick with my guns, though and still say take it to a shop. I like 'figgerin' things out, too but sometimes, you can get in over your head. The airbag system can be one of those areas. The autoparts stores that do the free computer scans can usually handle it if it's OBDII but prior to '96 is NOT OBDII. So, they may have trouble doing it. Take it to a shop and let the pro's do what they do. You'll have the option to decline repair. Just let them diagnose it for you. Then see if you still want to try to "figger" it out or replace the parts. I do it for a living every day and would much rather see you bring it to me and let me give it a whirl before you start replacing a lot of parts and run up an unnecessary parts bill.

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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
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Thanks! I work in the West Texas Oilfields so I haven't really even had time to look in my Haynes or Chilton manuals yet, so I didn't know that the diagnostic system wasn't the standard "Obi-Wan-Kneobie" II. I WILL consider all options including the repair shop, but I keep thinking that I introduced this fault in the computer, and since all was good before I monkeyed with it, then a broken component is not the cause. Question: Would an honest, reputable shop reset the error code for a nominal fee if that actually WAS the cause? Just wonderin' what you think from your end.
Still plan on getting the error codes!

BY THE WAY, I've found several posts involving similar airbag light problem that disconnecting the neg cable as per factory instructions didn't clear - ended up being a "CODE 41" stored in airbag computer. One post said that it was cleared thru ECU, but didn't elaborate on HOW. What is CODE 41 in the airbag system? PLEEEEZE Answer, I neeeeed DATA! Thanks!

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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 6:40 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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Code 41 is for the throttle position sensor and has nothing to do with the air bag module.

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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
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Did call local Toyota house, will cost $98.00 + tax for them to hook up code reader and read/clear codes. Will update with more info regarding action taken and solution, all details for future reference. As the the Toyota song goes - "You asked for it, you got it, bend over..."!

I found this procedure regarding clearing the Airbag light if the factory-recommended "remove negative battery cable" for 1 minute doesn't work:
(suggests using the DLC1 connector under the hood, and wirebrushing the nearby engine removal hook to use as good grounding point)... 3 posters responded to the following procedure, all 3 said it worked.

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitchell1eautorepair-car-repair-manuals

Use two short grounding wires, and at TC and one at AB, then with the key ON -
1. Ground TC one second
2. Ground AB one second
3. Ground TC one second
4. Ground AB one second
5. Ground TC as long as necessary, Airbag light will flash continuously, then remove TC ground, Light should be OFF. Repeat if necessary. The poster recommends taking only 0.2 seconds between grounding TC and AB - Move fast!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/286555_AirBagReset_1.jpg

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Thursday, December 18th, 2008 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
  • MEMBER

UPDATE. UPDATE. UPDATE !

IT WORKED, IT WORKED !
Jnovack, I followed your suggestion for jumpering, but the only thing that happened was that my check engine and O/D off lights now flashed.

I then did the procedure I posted previously that required alternate grounding of TC and AB. Took me 5 tries to get the TIMING right, then during the final TC ground the A/bag light rapidly flashed as I held the TC ground for about 10 seconds, removed ground, and. VIOLA! Airbag light now off, normal operation during starting. It's all in the TIMING. The switch between making contact from TC to AB and back an forth has to be almost INSTANTANEOUS. My 4 previous tries resulted in 4 flashes, followed by 1 flash in an endless loop as long as I held the final TC ground, and air bag light stayed on. The 5th try had faster wire switching and the final ground produced a continuous rapid flashing of the a/bag light, which previous tries didn't. HOORAY! Still, can anyone tell me what the "41" that was being flashed meant?
Thank all of y'all for your posts, I'll check back for comments, and off to the next problem!

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Saturday, December 20th, 2008 AT 12:51 PM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
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I just smile and shake my head, sigh... The airbag lights and check sequence goes without a hitch when starting, now when I turn off car I have a 4 fast beeps, 8 times in a row, then stops,


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/286555_greenegg_1.jpg

coming from what seems to be behind/inside steering wheel. Didn't do it immediately, just after several starts. WHUT DA HECK? Any thoughts, 'specially moderators? Guess I should start reading this instead of tech manuals...

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Saturday, December 20th, 2008 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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Code 41 is for the throttle position sensor

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Sunday, December 21st, 2008 AT 3:44 PM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
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Ok, TPS. Any thoughts regarding the beeping sound? I upped the ante on this one with an additional donation. SOMEONE out there knows what the sound I'm referring to is! (I Hope.).

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Sunday, December 21st, 2008 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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First is your seat belt on or off if on try this I got this from a friend who works for toyota
Get in the car and turn the key to ON (don't start the car, ) then change the odometer to display "odo" and not trip A or B.

Turn the key off.

Turn the key back to on. Within six seconds of doing this, press and hold the odometer button. Do so for 10 seconds.

Then, while still holding the button, buckle up, then unbuckle.

The "odo" display should then change to say "b-on."

Push the odo button to get it to read "b-off." Then wait for the display to change back to the odometer. That's it, you're done.

The car will still beep right when you turn it on if you don't have a seatbelt, but it won't beep if you or your passenger unbuckles for a moment. Salvation!

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Monday, December 22nd, 2008 AT 9:43 AM

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