While driving the car lack of power, surge in power, bucking and then shut off?

Tiny
AMANDA DESROSIERS
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
My daughter was driving about 50MPH. Car started to act like it was going to stall, lack of power, surge in power, bucking, so she pulled over as it shut off. Tried cranking it and it started for one second and shut off again. Tried cranking it again, nothing but crank, didn't even act like it was trying to start by "stumbling" just engine crank. First thing I scanned for DTC codes; no codes detected. So, I moved on to check for spark and it is getting spark, multimeter proved the battery is good, changed out the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors (as these are known to have issues with them and they were cheap enough) still crank no start. I tried to check fuel pressure, but no Schrader valve, and I'm a single mom who only knows backyard mechanics, couldn't figure out the attachments needed to intercept the fuel lines in the engine bay with the pressure gauge reader. So, I opened the intake and sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body. Turned the key, and it stumbled, finally tried to act like it wanted to start. So, fuel delivery issue I assumed. Found a lower priced fuel pump assembly, filter, sending unit, pressure sensor, regulator all of that. Installed the new assembly, turned the key. Stumbled again, still no start. But the engine was producing more promise than previously. The throttle body does look dirty and has some build up around the butterfly, but I don't think it's enough to completely shut off and prevent the car from starting. I'm at a loss here mentally. And buying every sensor, part, clip, and bolt isn't really affordable. What else am I missing that could cause engine failure while driving, and crank no start that I can somehow diagnose myself?
Tuesday, July 12th, 2022 AT 10:19 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Hi,

It sounds like the fuel pump still isn't working. Here is how the circuit works. When you turn the key to run or start, power transfers through the fuel pump relay primary side and a ground path is provided by the ECM. When that happens, the electromagnetic coil in the primary side of the relay energizes and closes a switch on the secondary side of the relay allowing power to flow to the pump motor.

So, here is what we need to check. First, I need you to check fuse 50 in the under-hood fuse box. In addition to checking the fuse, confirm there is power to and from it. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If that fuse is good, remove the relay, and if there is a different one in the box having the same part number, switch them and test. If there isn't, here is a link that explains how to test a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

If both the fuse and relay test good, while the relay is out, turn the key to the run position and check each of the 4 terminals where the relay plugs in. Two of them should have power. Let me know what you find.

Take care and let me know if you have questions.

Joe

See pics below.
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Tuesday, July 12th, 2022 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
AMANDA DESROSIERS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Failed to mention that I had checked all the fuses related to eng, ign, and fuel as well as swap out the relay with the HI/LO beam relay knowing that relay was in fact working. I will have to see if the terminal for the relay is getting power, but I do in fact hear the pump kick on and prime, then shut off once pressure is achieved. After crank attempt it primes once again. I'll update once I've checked the power to the terminals of the relay.
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Wednesday, July 13th, 2022 AT 6:12 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Hi,

Keep in mind, even if you hear the pump running, it may not be producing. Here is a simple way to determine if it is a fuel-related issue:

See if the engine will start using starting fluid. If it starts and then stalls, we know its fuel related.

If starting fluid makes no difference, then I need you to check for spark at the plugs. Here is a link that explains how to do that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

If you have spark and there is no change with the starting fluid, I need you to record the engine cranking and upload it for me to hear.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Wednesday, July 13th, 2022 AT 9:13 PM

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