Stalled while driving, "check gauges" light, then crank no start?

Tiny
BENLEE1199
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 DODGE RAM
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Hello, my truck stalled last night while driving slowly through a parking lot. It was driving normally and suddenly I heard the "beep" like when the check engine light comes on, but it was not the check engine light, it was the "check gauges" light. At first, I didn't even know it had stalled, but when I tried to turn into a parking space, I realized there was no power steering, so then I knew it had stalled. I got out my simple code scanner to see if there was a trouble code, but nothing. The owner's manual says that when there is a "check gauges" light it is either an issue with the charging system/voltage, the oil pressure sensor, or the coolant temperature sensor.

Each time I would try to start the truck again, it would crank perfectly, and it would sound like it very briefly started, and I would let off the ignition since it seemed like it had started or just barely on the verge of starting, but then would die immediately. I looked at the oil pressure gauge (which is a gauge on my dodge, not a light) and the gauge did not raise when trying to start, so I assumed it must be the oil pressure sending unit, though I don't know if the gauge is actually supposed to raise when turning the key to the "on" position or when actually turning the engine over. But I did go ahead and replaced it.

After replacing the oil pressure sending unit, the truck still cranks very well, but it never even attempts to start, which is a little different than what it was doing before, since before it was cranking and nearly starting but immediately shutting off.

I should note that I also noticed the lower ring of the battery connector terminal (to the negative side of the battery) was corroded and part of it had snapped off, which made it impossible to fully tighten it to the terminal. I thought maybe this could be related and maybe it was causing an electrical issue of some kind, and I replaced the connector, but that did not change the issue in any way. And even when the connector was not able to fully tighten, it never affected the truck's ability to turn over like normal.

I also noticed the last time I tried to start it that the RPM gauge is not rising. It is just barely moving, almost imperceivable, and the needle is definitely not rising up past the "0" mark on the gauge and basically not moving at all, so not sure if this could be indicating something.

So, at this point it is cranking healthy, but no start.
Not sure if I just need to start from scratch on the "crank no start" diagnosis, but any direction you can point me in would be greatly appreciated.

I forgot to mention that the "check gauges" light only came on when the truck initially stalled, but it has not come back on at all since the first time. Also, no pending or stored trouble codes. I am just using a cheap $40.00 scanner, so I'm not sure how well it does with pending codes as opposed to stored codes.
Thursday, April 20th, 2023 AT 5:43 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,639 POSTS
Those scanners work okay, can I ask when you turn the key on without cranking the engine over do you hear the fuel pump running inside the fuel tank for about 5 seconds? Also, I would try starting fluid to see if the engine and ignition systems are okay. It sounds like the fuel pump or crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. This guide can tell us the spark has stopped and I have left instructions in the images below on how to change out the crankshaft angle sensor in case you need it.

https://youtu.be/baq_aEWNQ0Y

This guide can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Thursday, April 20th, 2023 AT 5:41 PM
Tiny
BENLEE1199
  • MEMBER
  • 69 POSTS
I cannot hear the fuel pump kicking on, so there may be an issue there. Is there a way to test the fuel pump to confirm if it is faulty?

I also was going to check the fuel pump relay but cannot find a fuse box that contains relays anywhere under the hood. I opened the main fuse box, but there were no relays inside whatsoever.

If the crankshaft (or camshaft) position sensor is bad, would that prevent the fuel pump from being commanded on?

Is there a way to test the crankshaft position sensor before I replace it? My Chilton guide usually shows me what pins to connect to in order to test resistance on a sensor, but it only shows how to remove it (kind of like the guide you attached for me), and it doesn't say how to test it?

I also tried spraying carb cleaner inside the intake, but it still would not start, though it did sound like it was just on the verge of starting for a moment. I did check for spark and did have spark though.

Thanks!
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Friday, April 21st, 2023 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,639 POSTS
Yes, if the crankshaft sensor is bad, it can cause the computer to not turn on the fuel pump. You can use an oscilloscope to test the sensor, just look for a smooth sign wave. I looked up the fuel pump relay and there is none. It is controlled by the TIPM which they had big problems with which I think that is what is wrong with your truck. You might want to run a CAN scan to confirm. You can get a CAN scanner (Controller Area Network) which will work on most cars from Amazon.

Here is a video to show you how:

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Here is how to replace the TIPM in case you need it which is easy to replace because it-self learns. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Saturday, April 22nd, 2023 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
BENLEE1199
  • MEMBER
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Thank you, Ken!
The problem is fixed now, which was the fuel pump itself. I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump activating when the key was turned on, like you mentioned, and I did not hear it. But since there was a possibility that it could be a sensor I did not want to drop the fuel tank and change out the fuel pump without checking those sensors first, but when I tried to test them (voltage and continuity), I was getting inconclusive results - mainly because I was unsure of the exact proper procedure for doing so.

I came across a video where they said to try banging on the bottom of the fuel tank while commanding the fuel pump on with a bi-directional scan tool (or in my case, while your wife turns the key on :-), and that "woke up" the fuel pump just long enough for me hear it trying to come on, which I had not heard up to that point, and that put enough fuel in the system for the truck to start briefly, so that told me that it was definitely the fuel pump that was going out, or essentially had already gone bad.

For the education of others I should also mention that I later realized that early on in the diagnostic process I should have taken off the intake plenum so I could spray carb cleaner directly into the throttle body when trying to see if the truck would start if it was given a little "fuel", because I just took the intake air hose (post air filter) off the plenum and sprayed the cleaner in there to see if it would start, but it didn't. The fact that the issue turned out to be the fuel pump tells me that the carb cleaner in the intake should have allowed the truck to briefly start, but since it didn't, I think that means the carb cleaner was just sitting in the plenum and did not make it far enough into the intake to help the truck start, which made that test faulty/inconclusive.

After changing the fuel pump, it started right up and has run perfectly so far (about 60 miles of driving).
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Tuesday, April 25th, 2023 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,639 POSTS
Yep, carburetor cleaner doesn't always work, starting fluid seems to do better. Thanks for letting us know, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Wednesday, April 26th, 2023 AT 9:15 AM

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