Passenger side taillight not working

Tiny
MK7CASEY
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 MITSUBISHI GALANT
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 207,000 MILES
However, when brakes are applied the light does. I've changed the bulb and I also switched out a different taillight assembly with the harness.
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Thursday, February 10th, 2022 AT 9:36 AM

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Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Hello, I'm assuming you put the correct bulb in that socket, it's a 2-filament bulb. One filament is for the Brake light and the other is the taillight. There is a Junction Block that the passenger side taillight bulb circuit has to go through. It goes in C-214 and out C-204, The first diagram is the wiring diagram for the whole lighting circuits. Circled in Green is that Junction Block or connection between the power source and the tail marker bulb. The second diagram is the Junction Block location (on the driver side dash). The third diagram is the tail marker connection C-214 and the last diagram is where it comes out of the Junction Block C-204. These Fuse panel/Junction Blocks sometimes get corroded behind them due to either the window being open while driving, or a slight water leak. But check that location and make sure that connection is okay. You can use a test light to make sure power is going in and coming out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter
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Thursday, February 10th, 2022 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
MK7CASEY
  • MEMBER
I replaced 2 7.5-amp mini fuses, and everything works as normal. Didn t realize this but none of the park lights on the passenger side were working and the back lights behind the climate control weren t lighting as well. Everything works as normal now, all with a little bit of research.
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Thursday, February 10th, 2022 AT 11:58 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Okay, well the concern now is why did those fuses pop. Fuses don't just blow for no reason, especially since there was more than one, then there is definitely a short to ground somewhere and this is going to happen again,
Do you notice any moisture at all in any of the tail/marker lamps housings? Even just a little bit, because it may be that the next time it rains or something of that nature that those same fuses are going to go again. So, write down exactly which fuses you replaced and keep a note somewhere of them, I will pull up the wiring diagrams for those circuits and keep them in a folder for you for when this happens again. Also, I would recommend inspecting any part of the wiring harness for the lighting circuits that has a Contact Point, meaning anywhere the harness either makes a turn or is resting on part of the frame, or even the underside of fuse panels, they get corroded a lot more than people think. As for the contact points just take a look at them for any obvious spots that may have rubbed threw into the wiring insolation. Try not to move the harness at all, because you may move the section that has the hole in the insolation away from the point where it shorted out and we'll never find the problem.
These are the common things we deal with in this field of work. If you notice any area, you suspect the harness is making contact with or the wires look burnt, take a picture of it, but try not to move it. I can almost guarantee this will happen again, fortunately it's not a huge problem or major safety concern.
I also wanted to inform you that there is a Recall on this vehicle for the Gas Tank Supporting Strap. I will put the information below. This is a safety concern, if the strap breaks it can cause fuel to leak out of the tank. Since this is a Recall, the dealership must fix it for free. (Pages 1 and 2)

I also found a Technical Service Bulletin about moisture inside the exterior lamp assemblies. This is not a Recall but may be the cause of the blown fuses. (Pages 3-8) Below.
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Friday, February 11th, 2022 AT 1:36 PM

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