Parasitic draw?

Hi,

The idea that the draw drops when you close the right rear Dutch door is interesting. Simply because of location, it seems it could be the result of someone splicing into the wiring for the trailer lights. If I understand, that is an aftermarket installation, correct?

Are you able to disconnect the trailer harness to try it that way? Also, have you been able to remove the second rear seat switch to see if that changes what is happening?

When I personally have a parasitic draw, I start under the hood of a vehicle at the power distribution box. With a voltmeter between the negative battery cable and the negative battery terminal, I remove one fuse at a time to see which one causes the draw to stop.

From that point, I review the power distribution wiring schematics to see what that specific fuse powers and move to one thing at a time there. If there is enough of a draw, you may find one of the fuses or relays warm compared to the others.

I have attached the power distribution wiring schematic below so you have a reference. If you want to try what I suggested, you will need it.

Let me know if you can try it that way and what the results are. Additionally, here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: I had to cut each pic in half to make them readable. I did overlap them so you can follow from one to the next.

Hi,

There could be a short, but anything after the fuse boxes should turn off when the fuse is removed.

By any chance, is the aftermarket trailer wiring power pre-fuse box?

Joe

Hi,

If you checked all fuses, under the hood and in the vehicle, the issue must be in one of the fuse panels.

Are you sure there are no lights being left on? If I recall, you disconnected the door switch and that made no difference, correct?

If that is the case, then I would suggest disconnecting the battery and removing the fuse box first to see if there is anything that appears to be a problem.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

If there was an issue, most times the affected area will be dark gray or black indicating a short. In this case, I agree with you. The wiring actually looks really good.

Do this. Remove the lamp in the glove box and see if it stops. I just read that there has been a big issue with the switch failing to turn that light off.

Also, and I'm sorry to ask, do I understand correctly that with all fuses removed, the draw still exists? If that is the case, then let's jump before any fuses are used, the starter and the alternator. See pic 1 below.

Disconnect the alternator to see if the draw stops. Note that the red wire on the alternator will have battery voltage at all times, so make sure to insulate it.

If there is no change, remove the heavy gauge black wire on the starter. The same thing is present there, power at all times. Make sure not to allow the wire to short.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Sounds like a plan. If the starter doesn't make a difference, I'm going to get in touch with the site owner. He is excellent with this type of problem.

Take care and make sure to avoid shorting the terminal at the starter.

Joe

Hi,

You found the source. Are there any damaged pins in the connector? If there isn't, the issue is most likely the alternator itself. We could have a faulty diode.

Let me know about the connector and closely inspect the wiring to and around that connector.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

I'm not 100% sure what I am looking at in the picture. The tab I circled below appears to be what would be pressed away from the tab and then pull up on the metal strap.

Let me know.

Joe