No start, no spark, no fuel pump activation?

So you have injector pulse and spark now but no crank from the ign switch now?

The easiest thing to check first is the transmission range switch, check if there is continuity through the switch in Park or Neutral. The OEM diagram is different again from the aftermarket one with the starter circuit. I'll post it for you, but with the Ign Switch in Start you should have power going right through the Range Switch.

Here is the OEM Starter diagram, Range switch location and its connector wire colors. So, it should have power on the Black/Blue wire while cranking and power coming back out on the black/red wire to the Starter.

Oh okay, well here's the starter circuit for a manual transmission, almost exactly the same except there's a clutch switch in place of the range switch, what do you mean it kicks back the pistons?
The picture of the distributor shows that it has a notch type on the bottom where it looks like it only goes in one way, (what I've marked in the 2nd diagram below) is that what you have? And what was the reason for adjusting the dist fully advanced? Is that the only way the rotor would line up with the number 1 cylinder at top dead center?

You're referring to the violet wire that is after the ST SIGN Fuse 10Amp? That going to be a 12volt signal from the ignition switch threw the clutch switch to the PCM, indicating a Start condition to the PCM.
How are you determining the spark is too advanced of TDC? You're not going to be able to determine the spark timing exactly without seeing it on a scope with reference to TDC.
While cranking spark is going to occur 6-8* degrees BTDC. The spark events are happening way too fast to see by eye. Are you sure your cam/crank timing is correct? You're kind of all over the place here. If the engine won't crank now, what did you do before that fault started happening?
Here's the specs on ignition timing, but you have to deal with one issue at a time here.
I've added the specs on the gap for the crank sensor also, along with the Distributor testing to check the pick up coils inside the distributor.
With the starter issue you are going to have to check for power at the locations on the wiring diagram, beginning with the switch on the clutch pedal, make sure power is making it in and out of the switch, if it is then move on to the starter motor. Adding random transistors to the PCM can cause more problems than it's going to solve. Run through the distributor testing and make sure you're getting the 1 and 4 pulses per rotation it should be. Turn the distributor back from its overly advanced position, it shouldn't be that far forward to begin with.

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I'm not sure using a computer that the part number is unknown, is going to work. It's impossible to guess where the wiring goes, it will only end up damaging other computers or electronic components. This company FlagShip One (fs1inc. Com) has a 1995 Mazda Protege 1.8L ECM that comes preprogrammed to VIN and is plug and play. Theres just not enough accurate service info to go by to wire this up, it needs to be an ECM programmed to the correct VIN that has the correct wiring to the distributor. I don't even have enough correct information to provide the right wiring diagrams.

Yeah it's difficult to impossible without the exact service information, or wires get hooked up incorrectly and more damage happens.