Engine stalled while driving

We are looking at two very different things. Voltage and amperage, although both a measurement of electrical current, are different. Voltage is the measurement of pressure allowing power to flow and amperage is the measurement of the volume of electrons which are flowing.

First, I don't recognize the gauge you have on the truck. Is this something that was added aftermarket? Second, what is it connected to?

I did note that as the voltage increased, the draw decreased on the amperage. If it is a negative, normally that indicated there is a draw which is not being replaced by a component such as the alternator on your vehicle.

Let me know any specifics you can so I can better help.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you Joe I really appreciate your help.
I thing the gauge added after market I bout the car second hand it is an ambulance.
I added this pictures I hope it will help if didn't please advice me how to make thing easier to you.
First picture it is the main power switch witch connect with five wires as in the second picture I believe 2 wires (+, -) comes from battery and tow wires(+, -) goes out to the box for lights and fan connected to keys inside the box as seen in the fourth picture and these wires connected to the control panel similar to the last picture
the keys inside in the box for light dome fan refrigerator rear A/Cetc. And all functions well when the car start running (most rest of wires it is for sirens was removed from buyer).
The fifth wire connect to the gauge.
Am not expertise am telling you from seeing I did my best.
What I have noticed the gauge led on when I put switch in on positions (may be the fifth wire connect to switch?) And noticed the car well start if the amps in + numbers am not sure is it related to engine but I doubted because now when I put key in on position I get minus number before I start the engine witch never star if the amps in minus number do you agree with me the engine has nothing to do with low amps and it is electric problems.
The fourth picture is the tray for the battery witch I put three of them 65 amp each, but I removed it to charge after empty from trying to start the car. The fifth picture what am trying to do to converted. Six picture is my car.
Sorry for making the story long.
Thanks again for your time.

Wow! You have your hands full. Please bear with me. These things are all aftermarket, so I have nothing to go by. However, since you have multiple electrical components that may be running with the key on and engine off, that is most likely why you are seeing a negative draw on the amperage. Is there a way for you to turn all added aftermarket components off to see if the amperage changes? If voltage is too low, the engine will not start. So without being there, that is what I suspect is happening.

Let me know.

Thank you Joe am not sure how or from where should I start to turn all added aftermarket components off but I will do my best. If you got a thought where should I first start let me know please.
I have Ancel AD310 OBD2 Code Reader I hooked it today after scanning I got these
control module:
$ 7E8:ENGINE
$7E9:A/T
$7ED
when I chose read codes it says no code found any idea what dose it mean and you think my problems is electric and nothing to do with the engine so far.
Thank you Joe and happy new year!

The items listed are usually relevant to specifics. However, the idea there are no codes, that tells me it isn't something that is related to the vehicle's original equipment.

I am so sorry, but I have no idea where to start turning things off that are after market. Based on what you sent, there is a lot of things added. I would have to be there and start tracing wiring to see what goes to where. See if you can find where the original power supply begins to the aftermarket components.

Let me know what you find and I wish you a happy new year as well.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you very much Mr. Joe.

Today I got this from obd reader Ancel what does it mean and where I can find it (if there is pic will be very helpful).I tried to look in Google and YouTube I was confused. How can I fixed it? Do you think this might be the problem? At this point I am trying to avoid taking it to the Ford agent unless if I have to.
Your help highly appreciated.
Thanks a lot.

Hi,

I need to confirm the engine size. You indicated it is a 6.0L. That wasn't offered. Is it the 6.8L V10?

As far as the code, the intake air temp sensor If the engine isn't as l listed, then it is a diesel. I need to know.

Here are possible causes for the code:

P0112
Symptom/DTC
P0112
Descriptor
Intake Air Temperature (Iat) Sensor 1 Circuit Low
Probable Causes
Harness Connection Incorrect
Harness Grounded Circuit
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Damage
I attached a picture of location. It should be the same location for either engine.

Thank you very much Mr. Joe for trying to help.
Today I have decide ship my car to body shop since now I knew where is the problem. I hope the problem stops there.
Thank you very much for your time and help and off course to this wonderful website and all its staff how voluntary trying to help others with their experience and knowledge.

Picture.

You are very welcome. If you have the chance, let me know what you find out is the cause.

Take care and have a great new year.

Joe

Hi joe I hope you had a wonderful new year
today I got my car they informed the clean the computer cables intake sensor find tow wires cut and the starter fuse was little lose it start fine so far even the I have cylinder no 1 50 percent function and no 8 not function I have white smoke comes from the exhaust but not to much am thinking to drive the car 300km after I add liquid to the full tank hopefully it helps do you recommend any
you are right the told me it is 6.4 v8 diesel
best regards & thanks for asking

Hi,

White smoke usually indicates coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. When you say cylinder number 1 is 50%, are you saying it has only 50% of the compression of the others? Also, cylinder 8 has no compression?

Let me know. Also, I hope you had a good holiday as well.

Joe

Hi Joe,

yes, cylinder number one it is 50% compression from the other cylinder number eight no compression or 80% no compression. I drove the car it seems running smooth, gear changing good, heat normal except the white smoke when I step on the gas and accelerates fine.
Thanks a lot.

If you have no compression in cylinder 8, you must have a valve stuck open or a hole in the piston. Even a bad head gasket would provide some compression when testing. However, if you have 0 compression on cyl 8, I can't understand how it is running smoothly. You feel no misfire?

Is it possible for you to record the smoke issue and upload it for me to see?

Let me know.

Joe

Thanks Joe.

Today I took the car to the official Ford dealer they have offered full inspection for $120.00 which I thought reasonable price. They will inspected next Tuesday and tell me what is the problem I how much it will cost. I will let know for the result and the cost and will discuss it with you if you don't mind.
I relay appreciate trying to help million. Thanks Joe.
AZZAM AL-HARBI

Listen, my friend, feel free to ask as many questions as you want. If I can help, I will. I have to be honest, if the engine is running smooth, I suspect the compression is good. However, you indicated the two cylinders are a concern. I would think you would have a misfire and it wouldn't be smooth. I'm interested in knowing what they find.

Let me know what you find.

Tale care.
Joe

Hi Mr. Joe I hope you are fine.

Today I got this from dealer. They said they have to open engine and one of them ask me to think about buying a used engine (by the way they told me its 6.0 v8 diesel). They charge too much for that even though I have noticed cylinder number 8 which I had earlier is not listed which means it function (I think).
Am not sure what should I do what a maize me as I said before the car runs just fine a drove it every thing was okay accept the white smoke and engine little bit noisy.( And if you can do me a favor where I can find used engine if I decide to take this action and how much approximately cost)
Thanks a lot Joe.

Hi,

I would be happy to help, but I'm not sure where you are located. I assume they want to take it apart because of the compression issue. Like I mentioned, if there is no compression, then you have either a bent valve (stuck open) or a hole in the piston. If it was just a head gasket, you would have some compression.

As far as the engine, not knowing where you are located makes it difficult for me. I did check quickly and found them starting around $3,000.00 USD. You can get a re-manufactured one for $7,000.00 USD. Either way, it's a lot of money.

Let me know if I can help, and other than this issue, I hope all is well.

Take care,
Joe

Hi Joe, am sorry I thought that show from mailing where it comes from. I am in Saudi Arabia (Riyadh) I tried to send copy of the computer result from the dealer with my last chat. I am not sure if you received it. I will send it now. I hope I succeed don't know why it does not appear.
Thanks Joe

Not a problem. I'm not sure where you can get an engine there. I am in the US and they are very popular, so it isn't hard to find. I will take a look at what you send and see if I feel there is a less expensive fix.

Take care of yourself.

Joe