Fuel pump not working?

Tiny
MAV1367
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 2.4L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 298,440 MILES
No power to fuel pump. Both relay fuse good. Changed fuel pump.
Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 8:13 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

If you have verified that both the fuel pump relay and fuse are in good working condition, and you have already replaced the fuel pump itself, there are a few other potential causes for the lack of power to the fuel pump in your 1999 Oldsmobile Alero. Here are a few troubleshooting steps to consider:

Wiring issue: Inspect the wiring harness that connects to the fuel pump. Look for any signs of damage, loose connections, or corrosion. Ensure that the wiring is securely connected and in good condition. Use a multimeter to test for continuity in the wiring to confirm if there is any break or short circuit.

Fuel pump control module: Some vehicles have a fuel pump control module that regulates power to the fuel pump. Check if your Oldsmobile Alero has a separate control module for the fuel pump and test it if possible. If it's faulty, it may need to be replaced.

Fuel pump relay socket: The relay socket itself could be faulty, causing a poor connection between the relay and the socket. Inspect the socket for any signs of corrosion or damage. Clean the contacts and ensure a good connection.

Ignition switch: The ignition switch is responsible for sending power to various components, including the fuel pump. A faulty ignition switch can result in a lack of power to the fuel pump. Test the ignition switch or consult a professional for assistance.

Fuel pump driver module: Some vehicles have a fuel pump driver module that controls the fuel pump's operation. If your Alero has one, it may be worth checking and testing this module.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 12:39 AM
Tiny
MAV1367
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Still no power to fuel pump. Changed fuel pump injector fuse and fuel pump relay.
Still nothing. Could there be a short in the wiring?
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 9:00 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Okay, In the diagrams below I have included the wiring diagrams (enlarged just to show circuit) for the fuel pump circuit. It consists of a fused power supply to the pump, PCM controlled power, a 4 pin relay, the fuel pump, and three (3) ground locations, along with six (6) wires and a junction box. I also have included a link on how to use a multi-meter for you down below. Please go to the link and familiarize yourself with how to use a multi-meter if you need to.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Okay, I need you to get me a voltage reading at pins E6 and E8 at the under hood junction box (diagram 1). Please make sure you have your key in run/"on" and not start. Please get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:56 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Sorry, what I need is to get a voltage reading from pin E8 in the Underhood Junction Box. It will have the dark green wire with a white stripe going to it. You will need an assistant trying to start the vehicle while you are getting your reading. Let me know what you find out please.

Thanks,
Alex
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Wednesday, February 20th, 2019 AT 12:11 AM
Tiny
BZOMERLEI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1999 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
My son's Alero will not start. When we turn the key ON, the fuel pump does not run.

I checked the fuel pump fuse and relay, both are OK and both are getting power when I turn the key ON.

I was originally having problems with the security light being stuck on, I fixed that by using the resistor method to fool the BCM that it is receiving the correct resistance from the key cylinder.

Any idea what the pin outs are at the wiring harness near the gas tank? I'm wondering about the single plug side, not the dual plug on top of the tank. I'm thinking there may be a short in the harness someplace that is preventing power from getting all the way to the pump.

Any other suggestions?
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BZOMERLEI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I purchased access to the website and now have access to the wiring diagram.

I learned that the wire harness at the fuel tank has a medium gauge gray and black wire that run the pump. The back is grounded and I verified 0 ohms from that pin to the chassis ground.

I also verified 12 volts across those pins as well as DC amps when the key was turned to on. The volts and the amps dropped after about 2 seconds. I think that is normal.

The question is why is the pump not running? Is there something else inside the pump, preventing the pump from spinning up for those 2 seconds? Note: the fuel tank is still drained, does it require a minimal amount of fuel to even turn on? I think I'll put 2-3 gallons in it while waiting for a response.
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BZOMERLEI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I unplugged the fuel pump harness from the body connection and then manually connected a 12volt source to the gray and black leads. The pump runs and pressurized the system. I reconnected the harness and started the car, it ran for 5 seconds until the pressure dropped. The pump does not run when connected to the harness.

One more thing, there is an old remote car started installed in this car, I found it when trying to bypass the Passlock II. I'm wondering if something there is interfering. I have disconnected it with no change. When connected, it does lock and unlock the doors when the key is turned, so I think it is functional.

ANy help would be appreciated.
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,030 POSTS
Sorry nobody helped yet, I didnt see your question, I'll try and help.I would start by scanning for any theft deterrant codes, sounds like more of a passlock problem, you said you put a resistor in to by pass it, usually a bad idea to do that, I would just start by fixing the security light first(probably just needs an ignition switch)very common on these. Then perform the 10 min relearn and see if it starts, if it doesnt then check spark and fuel pressure. When there is a theft deterrant problem or code these vehicles will not start and only run for 5-10 seconds, that is also the reason why you only get power at the connector for 5 seconds, if the BCM see's a problem in the sys it will go into theft mode and disable the fuel pump. Post back with what you find.
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BZOMERLEI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The Passlock is fixed, the security light does not come on anymore. It was solid on, before I did the resistor bypass. Once I added the resistor, I did the 'new key learning procedure' the light went out, and has not turned back on. Doing research on this, I learned that when the key is first turned on, the fuel pump is only energized for a few seconds, and wil turn back on when the key is set to start or the engine is running. From what I can tell, I am getting voltage at the wireharness, but the pump does not run, even for that 2 seconds.

For your other questions, I am getting spark but not fuel. I can get the engine to run for a few seconds by using aresol starter fluid. I can also get the car to run a few seconds by manually energizing the fuel pump at the tank wire harness to pressurize the system. I am getting fuel pressure at the fuel rail when manually running the pump.

I'm wondering if there is an issue with the other wires going to the fuel pump assembly. I think one set is for the fuel level (seems to be working) and the another is for tank pressure.

I was unable to get any codes from the DEI Avital 3200 starter, but I was able to put it into 'valet' mode, this should bypass the Avital system.

Thanks
Brent
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BZOMERLEI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I'm more than a little peeved right now. Turns out the fuel pump relay WAS bad. The second thing I did after checking the fuse was check the relay. I took it down to AutoZone and they plugged it into something and declared it 'good'. Since it was 'good' I started down other paths. I must have spent another $100 on parts and tools, when I needed to spend $15 on a new relay.

Anyhow, enough ranting, I tell you how I figured it out. The website pointed me in the right direction. One of the first steps was running a fusable jumper from the + on the battery to pin 30 on the relay socket. That worked. On a whim I pulled out the A/C relay and put it in the fuel pump socket since it was the same part number. Viola, it worked.

I'm thinking the the relay was working enough that it would pass the test at AutoZone, but failed when it was actually delivering current.

Brent
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,030 POSTS
Sorry I wasent more help, I got to you question to late.I would have steped you in the wright direction, but atleast you got it fixed. One again sorry for the delay. Thank you brian
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BZOMERLEI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Brian,
Sorry, did not mean to imply I was peeved with you or the website, I was directing that at AutoZone and their relay test.

I'm happy it is fixed, but irritated that the second thing I checked after resolving the Passlock II issue turned out to be the eventual culprit.

Ah well, I learned a bit more, I guess that counts for something.

Brent
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)

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