1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Good Fuel No Spark

Tiny
DOMEZTIK
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 189,000 MILES
My eclipse shut off on the highway last year for 5 mins and fired back up. Now it did the same thing a few days ago intermittently. Now it wont start at all. I dont have the cash to shotgun this thing and start throwing parts at it. I know im getting fuel you can smell it and I used a niode light to confirm pulse. I've heard of the ASD relay problem on the fire wall, bypassed the relay, same prob. I've seen a hundred people with the same problem with no real answer. I keep telling myself its the CKP sensor ($60 autozone) but its seems from reading forums that it probably wont fix my problem.
I dont have access to mitchell anymore so I was wondering if I can just test for reference voltage to and fro? There are three wires I guessing its power ground and signal return? Not sure which wire is which. Also i've heard that if the tach doesn't move when you crank then the CKP is bad. Any input would be great
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Friday, October 1st, 2010 AT 7:27 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi domeztik,

Have you tried to retrieve for trouble codes?

Replacing parts and hoping that it would work can be a rather expensive and tiring job.

Is your engine with turbo?

Perfom the following test to see if you can come up with any results.

DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION SYSTEM (DIS - 4-CYLINDER)
Ignition Coil Resistance (Eclipse)

1. On Eclipse 2.0L non-turbo, go to step 3. On Eclipse 2.0L turbo and 2.4L, disconnect ignition coil connector. Go to next step.

2. On Eclipse 2.0L turbo, use DVOM to measure primary coil resistance between ignition coil connector terminals No. 2 and 3 (coil for cylinders No. 1 and 4) and terminals No. 1 and 3 (coil for cylinders No. 2 and 3). See Fig. 2 or Fig. 3. On Eclipse 2.4L, use DVOM to
measure primary coil resistance between ignition coil terminals. Go to step 4.

3. Disconnect ignition coil connector. Using DVOM, measure primary coil resistance at coil (component side) 3-pin connector. Measure between center and right terminals of connector for cylinders No. 1 and 4, and between center and left terminals of connector for cylinders No. 2 and 3.

4. On all models, remove ignition wires from coil. Measure secondary coil resistance between coil towers for cylinders No. 1 and 4 and between coil towers for cylinders No. 2 and 3. Primary and secondary coil resistance should be within specification. See
ECLIPSE IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE table. Connect coil harness connector. Connect ignition wires to coil.

ECLIPSE IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE - Ohms @ 68 F (20 C)
Application / Primary / Secondary
2.0L
Non-Turbo / 0.51-0.61 / 11,500-13,500
Turbo / 0.70-0.86 / 11,300-15,300
2.4L / 0.74-0.90 / 20,100-27,300
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Sunday, October 3rd, 2010 AT 5:10 AM
Tiny
DOMEZTIK
  • MEMBER
Thanks alot for your detailed reply, sorry I wasnt specific about the engine was turbo or NA, mine is the NA. And I didnt specify a CEL. There were no codes.
I got antsy and bought the CKP, installed it, at first no spark but after continued crankiing it started to stumble, then start and stall, and eventually purrrred like a kitten.
So far so good, but one more question.

After you install a CKP does it take some cranking before it starts sending good pulse? That seemed like the case. It was weird, like the sensor needed time to "wake up" maybe because it was new. Who knows?

Thanks for the help
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Thursday, October 7th, 2010 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
No, the CKP does not require any warming up time. Usually it would just fire up.

Keep your fingers crossed thet it is the cause.

Are you sure sparks was not available? One of the reasons it was difficult to start could be the engine compression had dropped and it requires some cranking to get it up.

The engine stalling after starting was because due to the excessive cranking, the cylinders were flooded and after clearing out, it ran smooth again.
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Friday, October 8th, 2010 AT 8:01 AM
Tiny
DOMEZTIK
  • MEMBER
I agree with the CKP warm up thing, its not an H02s, it doesnt need to warm up and the flooding makes sense too. I had my fingers crossed but I just kinda figured the problem would come back and it did. I hate when something just starts working, I want to find a problem so I can say "THATS IT"
So now im going to be as detailed as possible.

When the car runs it runs perfect, there is no stuttering or stumbling no misfires or CEL. When its cold it will run fine until opererating temperature is reached. Then its like someone reaches under the dash and hits a toggle switch for the ignition. The spark is either on or off. Ok heres the weird part. When the car fires up it will idle for hours and hours w/o any problem. However as soon as you let out the clutch and transfer some power, BAM it shuts down. (It doesnt actually go bam there is no noise) While its idling im constantly wiggling wires trying to find a fault somewhere with no luck. That why im thinking ECM. I'm gonna check coil resistance like you said but this problem really doesnt seem like a coil issue. The coilpack on this car is a 2+2 type which shoots spark to 1-4 and 2-3 so when these fault the car usually misses on two cylinders.

Also on more weird phantom issue, this car never smoked a peep and before I bought it, I checked compression and it had 115 across the board which is rare for the pressure to be so accurate. So I knew I had a good engine. When I changed the timing belt about 10,000 miles ago the car smoked for about 10 miles and never smoked again. The smoke was white, but didnt smell sweet or like oil. My instructor at college told me that fuel problems could cause different colors of smoke and is often misdiagnosed.
My point being that the car is smoking a little not sure if it matters, not losing coolant or oil, think its fuel prob. But when the car is running normal before it shuts down there is zero smoke. Remember no lean or rich codes, no P0420 catalyst codes. I think my Pcm is on the fritz but I just like second opinions.
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Friday, October 8th, 2010 AT 2:45 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Even 2 + 2 type of coil can misfire on a single cylinder due to internal breakages at the spouts.

PCM would seldom give way after heating up, more often than not if fails when cold. However without any CEL, the best way is to plug in a diagnostic tool and go for a test drive. When problem occurs, note the funtions of the various sensors to see if any is out of specs.

Is it confirmed that whenever problem occurs, you do not get any sparks?

It could ba a bad wiring connection somewhere that is losing contact when it heats up.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2010 AT 6:13 AM

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