Major oil loss

Tiny
BUMBLENUGZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HYUNDAI ELANTRA
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 207,000 MILES
I’ve got the car listed above GLS model with a catastrophic oil loss. It’s on the right side of the engine and isn’t from the valve cover, though it reaches almost up to it. Could this be from a failed pan gasket? Is there anything else on that side that could fail that big?

The upper radiator hose burst, also, but I would think that would just be from overheating after the oil loss.
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 4:29 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Hi,

When you say right side of the engine is that standing in front of the engine or sitting in the driver seat? Driver side or passenger side?

Also, the major causes of oil leaks are oil filters, pan gaskets, or crankshaft main seals.

If it were me, I would put my money on a crank seal. When those fail, the oil comes out pretty quickly.

Let me know the detail about which side and we can go from there.
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 4:42 PM
Tiny
BUMBLENUGZ
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Sorry, it is the right side as seen from the front of the vehicle. I guess that would make it the actual left side of the engine. That would put the oil filter and main seal on the other side, away from the leak.
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
BUMBLENUGZ
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I thought it might be the pan gasket, but I d never seen one blow oil that high on the engine.
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 4:51 PM
Tiny
BUMBLENUGZ
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Picture.
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 4:52 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
You actually have a main seal on each end of the crankshaft. If the leak is on the side away from the filter then the rear main seal is what I would guess.

I agree with you. A pan gasket normally doesn't put out that amount of oil as you are describing.

Nevertheless, if you can't tell where it is coming from, I would suggest to clean off the engine using a degreaser and then add an oil dye. They sell the kits for about $10.00 at parts stores. Then run the engine until you see the oil coming out. Then use the black light to find the source.

Here is a guide that has some common areas:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-is-leaking-oil

Let me know if you can't find it doing this and we can figure something else out.
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
BUMBLENUGZ
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Should I replace the seal and the seal case? Or would the seal be the likely culprit?
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
BUMBLENUGZ
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Also, would a blown head gasket be another likely culprit?
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
It looks like you can get just the seal as this most likely the issue, but you will want to make sure this is where it is coming from because you have to remove the transmission in order to replace it. Unfortunately, Alldata does not have a specific procedure on how to replace this seal but you have to remove the flex-plate which you have to remove the transmission to get to.

Here is the procedure to remove the transmission. Once this is out, you will see the flex plate and the seal is just behind this.

Let me know if you need more information but again, this is a lot of work so we need to make sure this is it. Doing the dye test will confirm it is coming from there before you disassemble. Thanks
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 5:52 PM
Tiny
BUMBLENUGZ
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Yeah, I m definitely going to clean it up and dye it. I m not looking to do unnecessary work. I ll let you know how that goes.
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Sounds great. Keep me posted. I will wait to hear back. Thanks
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2019 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
BUMBLENUGZ
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Okay, so things have progressed. After cleaning everything up with brake cleaner, replacing the upper hose, and refilling all fluids, I ran the car for about 45 minutes. There was a small coolant leak along the radiator seam, but that s it. No oil leak. Since then, the ac hasn t been cooling after the engine gets hot, especially when it s hotter outside. I m in southeast Texas, so yeah. And I ve had to add coolant on a number of occasions. Cylinders 1 and 2 have begun to misfire when the engine is first started, but it runs smoothly after a few seconds. Cleared the codes and it repeats each time it s started.

Today, it won t start at all. Turns over, but no dice. Checked the oil and there s moisture, but not milky. Am I likely looking at a bad oil cooler, a blown head gasket, or a cracked head or block? I m about ready to shoot it and bury it.
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Tuesday, July 2nd, 2019 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Okay. I would suspect a head gasket issue or cooler. A cracked block or head is rare and normally happens after repeated overheat issues.

Here is a test on head gaskets. I would do this first because it is a less intrusive test than an oil cooler. The only definitive way to test a cooler is to hook up an air supply and submerge it in water and look for bubbles. This means you need to take it off (obviously).

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test
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Tuesday, July 2nd, 2019 AT 4:35 PM

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