1995 Jeep Wrangler Won't Crank

Tiny
DEANH1960
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 JEEP WRANGLER
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 121,350 MILES
My 1995 Jeep Wrangler won't start. The battery checks out and so does the alternator. When you turn the key, nothing happens, no clicking sounds, nothing. I even tried jumping from another vehicle but still nothing. It will "clutch" start and run fine. Could it be the starter? If so, is rebuilt as good as new? Recommendations.
Thanks.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2010 AT 3:27 PM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile. Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to help you through your whole ordeal, Fellow Jeep Guy.

Love, Turddog


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

JUST A LITTLE "SMILE" FROM MY BABY!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_100_0327_1.jpg

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Wednesday, March 31st, 2010 AT 7:04 PM

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