A/C stopped blowing cold air

Hi,

The first thing I recommend is to check fuse 53 in the intelligent power distribution module. This is the fuse that powers the A/C compressor clutch coil. If it failed, the compressor won't engage.

When you check it, confirm the fuse is good and also confirm there is power to and from it. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Also, take a look through this link and let me know if anything helps:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Below, pic 1 shows where the IPDM is located, pic 2 shows the fuse to check, and pic 3 is the fuse box wiring schematic.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

The idea that you were in the red when charging is a concern. It sounds like something is plugged and causing high pressure. There is a high-pressure switch that prevents it from engaging if the pressure gets too high.

The only way to be sure what could be causing this is to determine what the low-pressure side is showing (that is the port that puts the gauge into the red) and the high side pressure. If you have high pressure on the low side and opposite, there is a chance the compressor is bad or there is a clog in the system. If both are high, that would indicate it is overcharged, but that would have required someone to add refrigerant to it and that didn't happen.

At this point, we need an A/C manifold gauge set. I "Think" most parts stores will lend one to you, but I can't be certain. With this, you will connect to both the low-pressure and high-pressure ports so you can get a reading on both sides.

This link explains how to vacuum and recharge the system. I'm not recommending that be done, but rather, the link shows the gauges and how they are attached.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Let me know. Also, I just messaged the site owner who is outstanding with AC systems. I expressed my thoughts based on your symptoms and asked if he could think of anything different. If he does, I will let you know.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. I'm glad you're back. As far as replacing the compressor, I attached the manufacturer's procedures below. They are somewhat vague. For example, they don't explain how O-rings are replaced or adding PAG oil or anything like that. So, here is a link that will explain those things to you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-air-conditioner-compressor

If you look below, I attached the directions from my manual. Take a look through things and let me know if you have questions or if it helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: If the original compressor had internal damage/failure, the system will need to be flushed.

Hi,

If the A/C is inoperative, the condenser fan (at the radiator) will likely not run. However, if the engine gets too hot, that won't prevent the fans from turning on.

Let me know what I can do to help.

Take care,

joe

Ashely, if you let the vehicle sit and idle, will the engine overheat? I'm not suggesting you do that, but once a specified coolant temperature is reached, the cooling fan should turn on.

If it will overheat, then we need to check a few different things. I attached the diagnostics for the fan motor below. There are several different tests. Some require the use of a scan tool that can communicate with the vehicle. Take a look through them and let me know if you are comfortable performing them.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

The first two pics are the first test. A bidirectional scan tool is needed. Basically, the scan tool tells fans to turn on. It is used to see if the electronics between the power supply and fan motors are working.

I have a question. I realize that many of these tests require specific tooling. That is what makes it difficult for most people to do at home. Do you have a scan tool that can communicate with the different modules on the vehicle?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Okay, no problem whatsoever. We need to determine if the compressor has actually failed. I read back through everything and noted the gauge was in the red when you tried charging it. Is it possible for you to get your hands on an AC manifold gauge set? Often times a parts store will lend one to you.

If you can, I need to know what the AC compressor's high and low side pressures are. If you look at this link, it is for vacuuming and recharging the system. I'm only adding it so you can see what the manifold gauge set looks like.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Let me know if you can get that. If so, we are going to jump the compressor relay to force-engage the compressor and see what happens with the pressures.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

If that is with the system off, the pressures should be equal or close to it. They call that (at rest) static pressure.

I would like to try to engage the compressor, but I'm somewhat concerned if there is no pressure on the low side. Once it is engaged, we could see if the pressures change to where they should be.

If you want to try it, just don't allow the compressor to stay engaged for too long, just enough to see what the pressures do.

I attached a pic below showing the compressor relay. On the relay, you will find four pins. On the plastic portion, there will be four numbers, 85, 86, 87, 30. If you place a jumper wire into pins 30 and 87, that will send power to the compressor clutch, and it should engage. If you are comfortable doing it, just make sure to wear eye protection at a minimum. You should be fine, but I'm not sure what is happening yet.

Here is a link that explains how to test a relay and its circuit. It provides a more detailed explanation of the circuits.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know your thoughts and questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.