Intermittent transmission slips

Does that include even trace amounts of AC power? I get, at most, .030v of AC at the battery. I have read that trace amounts are okay. Maybe that is wrong. I do not know. Could that loose wire account for these issues? I do not have problems replacing parts. I just do not want to keep taking shots in the dark.

As always, grateful for your advice.

Update: I went to check the car tonight and the battery is dead. Not enough power to even open the door. Did not have any lights on, so I am not sure what could have caused the drain. Should I manually charge up the battery and then test to see if the battery is still good? I know it was hit with over-voltage for some time, as well as some trace AC volts.

I am no longer messing around with the cheap AutoZone alternators. I just ordered a new AC Delco. Hopefully it will arrive this week. I also ordered a new belt and tension-er. That should take the alternator out of the equation.

Do I have to do all that, or can I simply use my battery load tester? Is the test you linked me to more accurate?

Okay, new good alternator is in. Battery is okay.

Still get slips on transmission, although its constant now.
Engine idles roughly.
Car "rumbles" when I put it in reverse
Car applying too much power to forward gears - when I take it out of gear and put it in park, the rpm's "surge" briefly to about 2100 before returning to normal.

I cleared the codes to get a fresh set of readings. The last batch of codes that I posted here were present before I cleared them.

Does this mix of symptoms sound more like a bad EGR valve or a bad ECM?

Took it to the shop this morning. My assistant spoke to the guy later in the day and he said that, in his opinion, the transmission was shot. I have not spoken to the mechanic personally (I will do that tomorrow), but that does not sound right to me - especially as a replacement alternator caused all transmission symptoms to cease for 3,000 miles. When that alternator's voltage regulator caused the voltage to spike to over 16 volts, I assumed that the ECU may have taken a hit and that caused the variety of symptoms I am having now.

What should I ask my mechanic tomorrow if I believe that their diagnosis of a bad transmission may be wrong?

Thanks Roy,

Just so I am armed with information, what a the typical tests that would diagnose a bad transmission? Is the any way, if we accept my theory of a computer issue, to prove that it is the computer and not the transmission?