Engine missing/idling rough

Tiny
RADTODD1
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
Where to start. I have two huge holes in my radiator and it leaks bad. I have been VERY cautious and stop frequently to fill it with water. The temperature has never gone into the red nor even 3/4. I would keep my trips short and again very cautious until I had the money to buy a new radiator (which now I have and about to put in). Anyway, out of the blue the other day I went to start my car. And then and since then it idles rough and sounds like it is missing or running on 3 instead of 4 cylinders. It idles really rough and low at a stop. Almost like it's going to stall out. However, there is no apparent loss of power. As quick as ever when I give it a good amount of gas. Also, it seems to run fine like it did before once it is fully warmed up. I have no white smoke or water out the exhaust (though now a real strong or rich smell) and no water in my oil. I have yet to check my spark plugs or anything else. Is this a head gasket gone bad or something more minor (I hope). Anyway input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Todd
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Wednesday, July 14th, 2010 AT 10:52 PM

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Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Sometimes when something is leaking when engine is cold and when the engine comes up to normal temperature it seals itself, same as vacuum it will transfer vacuum when cold but not hot thru a thermal switch

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

In your case like the oxygen sensor it has to be heated up to 600F in order for it to function correctly to control the air and fuel mixture
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Friday, July 16th, 2010 AT 3:08 AM
Tiny
MKIRKSY3
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  • 9 POSTS
  • 1995 HONDA ACCORD
  • 97,000 MILES
I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX 5-speed 2.2, with 95000 miles. I been having rough idling problems. I check the sparks to see if that was the problem, the spark plugs was okay but one cylinder was working. I changed the fuel injector on the same cylinder and follow all the steps regarding the fuel pressure and things of that nature. The cylinder still wasn't still giving any power or fire. I don't know what else to do to figure out the problem. Do any one have any recommendations?
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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  • 41,815 POSTS
Check the compression and valve clearance.
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MKIRKSY3
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How is that done?
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Check above link.
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MKIRKSY3
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I did the compression test and all the cylinders even the bad one was around 150PSi. The cylinder is still not firing or misfiring. I took the spark plug out and it was black on the end of it, the other spark plugs was kind of white. There is oil on the bottom of the distributor cap, but no oil inside. Not sure where that leak is coming from. I also changed the fuel injector on that one cylinder. When I first start the car, it idle fine until it heat up to normal temp. Not sure what else to do. Could it be a sensor or something. Maybe computer not responding. I dont know
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Did you check the valve clearances?
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Did you test the plug wires?
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MKIRKSY3
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How is a valve clearance check is done? The plug wire are pretty good?
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
94HONDAACCORD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 25,500 MILES
One morning last week, I get in my car to go to class and it starts like it always does and everything seems normal. The night before it was running fine too. Upon pulling out of my driveway, I noticed that it kind of began to stutter, but I pushed down the gas pedal more and as the RPM's picked up the stuttering/bogging went away. It only did that during take off from a stopped position and did that all the way to class, which is about 6 miles. On my way back home, it still did the stuttering/bogging thing, but it was still drivable. Later on, I decided to go to the store to get some fuel injector cleaner, but my car began stuttering/bogging down so badly that it came to a stop on the side of the road. After a few attempts at starting it again with no luck, I popped the hood and noticed the cat. Converter was glowing red hot. I waited 15 minutes for it to cool down and was able to start my car and make it about 2 miles before it bogged down to a complete stop again, but this time there was no waiting and going again. I had it towed home. I probably went about 30 miles with it in the stuttering bogging condition before it wouldn't go no more. I put new plugs in, a new dis. Cap, new rotor button, new catalytic converter, and a new radiator. My old radiator developed a crack in it a week earlier. I am also having a new water pump installed, timing belt, balance belt, valve cover gasket, and fuel filter installed this coming up weekend. I have a feeling none of that will fix ti though because I loosened the fuel line going into the fuel rail and gas was flowing thru it pretty good, so I doubt a new fuel filter will help, but it can't hurt. Also, while sitting in my car and lightly pushing the gas to keep it idling, it vibrates badly and sounds like a 4 stroke motorcycle. It reminds me of a diesel engine the way it acts when im running the engine trying to figure out whats wrong. I checked the CEL codes and it flashed 43, which is a fuel supply system error. When I turn my key to the II position, I can hear my fuel pump kick on for about 2 seconds, so I don't think it is the fuel pump. I've cleaned the EGR and PCV valves, but that only slightly helped the idle when im pressing the gas pedal. Turning the Ac or anything on makes the engine die. It sounds as if it is producing no power. I have an AEM adjustable timing gear and when I advanced the timing 5 deg, it began to slightly run better, so maybe just the timing is off? I have a magnaflow exhaust, new magnaflow cat. Converter, AEM lightweight pulleys, AEM adjustabel cam gear, Bosch 2 plat plug, cold air intake, and Moroso plug wires that are 5 years old. Everything but the plugs and cat. Converter i've had on my car for around 5 years, so I doubt they are any problem. Maybe my wires are old? They appear to be giving spark to each plug because I took each wire off while it was idling and I saw sparks jump to the valve cover from each wire. When I first parked my car in the driveway with this problem, my gas gauge showed 3/4 of a tank of gas, but now it's down to about an 1/8th of a tank for some reason. I see no gas leaks around the gas tank, but maybe an injector is leaking because there is an unburnt gas smell while the engine is running. My 02 sensor is only about 4 years old, so I don't think it would be a problem. My car does burn a little bit of oil because of a bad gasket somewhere that was a factory recall that I never got a letter about. Also, my water pump did go out 2 weeks prior to this happening and that is why I am having a new one put in. There is no sign of water or gas in my oil, but I do notice water slowly dripping from under where my water pump is. I am clueless as to what the problem could be. Has anyone else had a simliar problem or have a solution or any ideas?
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi 94hondaaccord,

When the catalytic converter is running red hot, a major misfiring has occurred and unburnt fuel is getting to it. This would turn it red hot when running.

You need to check what is causing the misfiring.
1. Spark plugs and related parts.
2. Injectors.
3. Compression.
Above are the common reasons for misfiring.

How long have you had the adjustable cam sprockets installed?
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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  • 41,815 POSTS
Did you ohm out the plug wires? Looks does not show anything if there are internal breakages. You need an ohmmeter to test the resistance. There must be resistance and below 25k ohms.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7wI4EtZSaA
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DELACRUZJ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 186,000 MILES
Ok, my question is similar to the one you all got May 06, 2010. Car starts up fine, but about 3 days ago it started sputtering. No warning what-so-ever. At first I thought it may have been some bad gas. And it still could be. Since then I have changed the Fuel Filter as well as Spark Plugs. They looked ok, had a little oil on the outer threads but nothing to cause concern. Car still sputters alot, just not as bad. Car starts up just fine. Sputtering starts about 5 minutes later. I have seen comments online about OS sensor, or perhaps distributor. And I was thinking if it was the fuel injector(s) it would have gradually started. Right? So. Do you have any ideas. I don't want to put a lot of money into the car. I just need it to continue running for as long as it will do so. I just need to know how to fix it so that I won't buy unneccessary parts. Has 186k miles. Please help. Thanks
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
--Could be caused by one of the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testin
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FANGUS503
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 201,000 MILES
After the radiator in my car failed by springing a leak in the top, the engine no longer undergoes the typical warmup procedure. It sticks at 2000 rpm until I press the gas pedal. Then, it revs from 1250 to 2000 in 1 second intervals, constantly. It sounds kind of like an incessant "vroom. Vroom. Vroom." I noticed that the throttle body lever doesn't move at all. The governor doesn't actuate, and the tank is half full.
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi fangus503,

If the coolant level is low, the fast idle thermo valve would not operate correctly and this would result in the surging.

Bleeding of system must be done correctly to eliminate this problem.
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VAJ4378
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 HONDA ACCORD
105K miles - Manual Transmission.

Engine runs rough at idle, especiall with A/C on -- steering wheel shake while at a stop.

Relpaced sparkplugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, added fuel injector treatement to fuel tank, checked vacuum at idle -- 20 pounds at idle and rock solid -- no fluctation indicating a valve or valve adjustment issue.

Exhaust seems to run rich at idle -- black suiet in tail pipe and rich smell.

Wonder if I should remove and clean fule injectors, or is there some other gizmo that I should check. Oxygen sensor maybe?

Help!

I want my mommy.

-Steve
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 938 POSTS
Hello !
I would check the IAC (idle air control valve) that`s responsible for the idle with and without load.
Remove it and clean it.
That could be the problem also check the EGR and be sure that the passages are clean and free of carbon.

Good Luck!
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOTTIEBOY85
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 171,000 MILES
I started up my car and it ran fine. Drove it for about 10 mins with no problems. Turned it off when I went to a store and started it up after about 15 mins. Ran fine for about 10 mins. Was doing about 55 mph and slowed to about 35 mph in town and it started to sputter. Feels like its misfiring but im not sure.
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
Do a cylinder balance test, you might find one or more cylinders are acting up.

Some possible causes are:
-Ignition fault (spark plug or spark plug wire)
-Faulty injector, dirty injector
-Mechanical fault (bent valve)
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 10:36 AM (Merged)

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