Engine missing/idling rough

Engine Performance problem
1992 Honda Accord Front Wheel Drive Automatic 182000 miles

182,000 approx. I've been to 5 shops and one said it was the egr valve and wanted $350... The other shops had no idea what the problem was caused from - rough idle when stopped and makes a clicking noise - the gauge needles used to bounce when it clicked but the distributor was replaced and that solved the needles bouncing but not the clicking noise. Sorry, can't give a donation until my s.S. Check comes.

I didn't say THREE shops said it was the egr valve - I said ONE shop told me that and cleaned it and it made no difference... Geeze, give me some credit! Thanks for yiour time.

Went to parking garage after not driving my car for a week or two as I am in college and car started, but the rpm's were jumping, but once it heated up, it settled at normal idle speed. When I went to drive the car, and held the gas at 1500 rpm's the car was very jerky.

I went to pull out of the lot after driving for a few minutes and the car stalled as I was leaving the stop sign. The car would not restart and it smelled as if something was burning. When I tried to restart the car, it puffed out of the tailpipe in. Well. Little puffs, tried to start but would not stay running. The exhaust was normal color, etc. Just not coming out right. I checked the PCV valve and it seems to be ok.

The gas may be three weaks old, and I was told that after sitting out when it gets cold (20's to 30's at night) it could have formed condensation in the gas or something to that extent or even that the gas could have gone bad. Any ideas?

Since the engine was obviously not firing right I started at the basics, first checking for fuel, and then air. All of which I had.

I popped off the distributor cap to find a fine powder or some kind of dust on the inside of it that was covering the points, etc. The only thing I can assume is that the inner shield between the rotor button and the distributor that bolts to the engine had a piece break off and started to disintigrate into a powder causing the engine not to run.

Well, after cleaning it out and accidentally breaking the clip on the rotor button (and having to get a new one; about $6) the car ran as it did before I had the problem. :Mrgreen:

Hi there, I have a Honda accord, and when it warms up or trying to shift from park to reverse it starts to shake vigorously like its about to have a piston stop working or something, the RPM falls well under 800 and the oxy sensor has died out twice, does any one know the cause of all this?

I have a feeling that the shaking when the idle is warm is the result of a bad PCV valve, could this be it?

But I have no clue whats causing the oxygen sensor to die off so quickly, I'm not using any heavy-duty additives or anything.

I need this fixed before the engine stalls and causes more problems, everything else on the engine seems to be fine, but I did do a tune up, but did not do any adjustments, can you please show me how to them them if there are any mandatory?

Thanks a million in advance!

Hi I just changed the PCV Valve, but no difference, although there was oil in PCV valve and no rattle.

Thanks.

It started happening last week, I tuned up a month ago: plugs, wires, filters, distributor, rotor.

Now for some reason it starts to vibrate when warm engine and between change gears, (ex. R -->D, etc.)

and there was some oil in clogged PCV valve, you think I should get the throttle bore cleaned, Please show me a diagram of how to, if I should.
Thanks, Molsoncanadian.

Nope, but it was on when the oxygen sensor died for the second time, but I got it fixed, it turned on after about the first 5-10 min of driving, but now I got the CEL cleared-out of the way.

Will WD-40 work or anything else sitting in the garage?
I got a carburetor cleaner (spray)

Engine Performance problem
1990 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive 165k miles

I have done a basic tune up on the car and replaced the valve cover gasket. The car idles rough when in any gear but park and neutral. It idles and runs fine when moving. If I sit at a light very long in gear the car looses power after starting to accelerate. The engine is running but the car just coasts. Giving it gas has no reaction. Usually it eventually picks back up and goes after a few seconds. I have been shifting to neutral when stopped so that it does not idle rough. The car is automatic.

The idle speed in neutral is about 750.
The idle speed in drive is about 725.
There is no hesitation problem unless the car is cold.
The only lamp on is the Brake Light.
The Check Engine light is not on.
I did not adjust the valve clearance. Just plugs, fuel filter, cap, rotor button. The plug wires looked good.
There is no overheating problem.
The previous owner stated no repairs other than routine maintanence.

If you don't warm the car up to operating temp. Before shifting to drive or reverse, it will almost always die or have the hesitation/ no power problem.
But even after warming up, it has a rough idle when in gear and sitting still. Once moving there is no excessive vibration.

I was already suspecting the engine mounts as the problem with the vibration but I am not sure which one needs replaced. I had someone watch the engine as I went from neutral to reverse then forward. They said it shifts forward and back quite a bit. So I am guessing that it is probably the rear motor mount. According to the manual it is fluid filled. I may have to pay someone to replace that.

I checked the wires with a Fluke and got omh's readings ranging from 920 - 2500. I will replace the wires over the weekend. I just assumed that they were good judging by their experior condition but I guess the interior can deteriorate also.

Thanks for your help.