Fuel pump changed twice still not starting?

Hello, I happen to own a 01 Ranger 4.0liter, since you have had the relay, fuel pump, and fuses changed, there is an Inertia Switch for the fuel pump in case of an accident. The impact will cause the Inertia Switch to trigger and open the circuit to the fuel pump. It is located on the passenger side, down where the passenger's right foot would be, almost directly in front. It might be behind the carpet a little bit. It has a two-wire plug going into it One wire is Pink with a black stripe and the other is dark green with a yellow stripe. It's hard to miss with the large pink wire. Try unplugging it first and plug it back in. I was having an issue with my truck randomly where it would stall out at idle, And I started to do some testing and happened to put an Amp Clamp around the pink wire of the switch, After disturbing the wire and plug for the switch, (which must have had a pin fitment issue and the connector was a little loose), I never had the issue again. So, check that first, look for any discoloring of the connector or anything like that. I'll find a picture of it for you, but if it's not the Inertia Switch, let us know and we can check some other components.
If the switch is not directly in front of the passenger's right foot, it will be behind the kick panel to the right on the passengers' foot.
I will post a photo shortly.

In the 1st diagram, green is the passenger door frame opening, the blue is the passenger side floor. In yellow is the Inertia Switch.
With the key Off, unplug the switch, check it for any overheating signs (discoloring), if it's okay, plug it back in, and see if it helps. For your mechanic, the switch is in series with the fuel pump, so it's a location that is easy to check for power to the fuel pump.
The best thing he can do is put an amp clamp around either wire at the switch during the No Start condition and see if it's actually the Fuel pump that's not working. These trucks are very easy to check fuel pressure on, there is a test port on the fuel rail to check fuel pressure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Another thing to watch for when the stall out fault occurs, while cranking the engine over and it not starting, watch the Tachometer (engine RPM) and see if it is moving at all. If it's not, then it's possible the engine computer is not receiving a crankshaft position signal. Also, during the fault make sure the Check Engine light is coming on for a couple seconds when the key is turned to the on position and while cranking. There are a number of things that can cause a stall out condition. I'm surprised the Check engine light is not staying on due to this issue. It really should be setting a diagnostic trouble code when it stalls out. If it's a sensor issue that is failing when it gets hot or for some other reason the engine computer should set a code for that sensor, really the mechanic you have doing the work should give you your money back because he did not fix the problem. It sounds like he didn't even check to see if there was any fuel pressure or do any testing to find the actual problem. This type of situation really bothers me. Mechanics just change parts, not fixing the problem, but then still take people's money.
There are other reasons why the engine might not be getting fuel, if possible, your local auto parts stores such as Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etc, will scan the engine computer for any stored diagnostic trouble codes for free. If you can get the truck, there and have them scan it. And there is a code stored, write it down and it will help us figure out what might be at fault. It will be a code such as "P0300" just as an example. If we can get a code, it will really help.
So, if it won't start again, watch for the Tachometer, and the Check Engine light. Or anything else you notice that seems odd or out of place.