Engine Stopped Suddenly No Spark?

Tiny
PISTOLNOON
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
Electrical problem
1993 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

I was driving my 93 Ford ranger and it stopped suddenly down the road and I thought maybe it had run out of gas. So I put some gas in and started to crank the motor over but because it was the side of the highway I could not hear the fuel injection pump priming. So I had it towed home. At home I checked the fuel pump and it is priming.I checked the two relays under the hood and they are good, the diode their is also good. The engine cranks over and I checked the spark plugs for spark and their is no spark. So I suspect the coil, the ignition control module or possibly the crankshaft position sensor but the crankshaft position sensor cannot be found?I would like to diagnose the ignition system but I do not know what to look for as for values and positions and where the cranksft position sensor may be or how this ignition works enitrely, and so I need some assistance detecting problems with this ignition to see if this is the problem then procede with a good diagnostic.
Thankyou
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009 AT 1:32 PM

57 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Thank you for the donation.

You listed the engine as 4 cyl so I hope I got the correct engine info for you.

It is a 2.3 L engine that I am refering to.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_EngComp93Ranger_1.jpg



Did you check if the camshaft is turning while cranking? It could be a bad timing belt.

Crank Positioning Sensor is inside the timng belt cover.
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Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 12:42 AM
Tiny
PISTOLNOON
  • MEMBER
Thankyou, It is to late to do it today so I will have time tomorrow afternoon, I will check the timing belt and crank sensor. How does the sensor work?Is it magnetic?Visual, some type of laser diode? So, I would know the DMM check to perform-continuity or resistance?
Also how would one check the coil, it seems like it is a DIS system one for the fuel injectors and one for the spark plugs.
Will get back to you tomorrow.I will also get more info on model.
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Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 1:23 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Crank Position Sensor.

Used on 2.3L and 4.0L and mounted on front of engine behind vibration damper, sensor is a dual hall effect type with 50 percent duty cycle and an amplitude ranging between 0.4 and 13.0 volts.

There are various systems so the correct data is important.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_IgnitionSystemApplication_1.jpg

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Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 7:50 AM
Tiny
PISTOLNOON
  • MEMBER
Thanks will be in touch.
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Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
PISTOLNOON
  • MEMBER
Ok got a better look at it and it appears that the timing belt has torn and is extremely worn out. Can a person take a standard timing light and check the timing?It looks like the power stearing, alternator, harmonic balancer, all have to come out?How far would the belt slip to make timing stop an engine?Or would it be catastrophic?Their are no signs of severe damage but I will check compression just to be safe.
So I ordered a timing belt, and when I get it off I will check the crankshaft position sensor to see if it is Ok or bad.
Would one set the piston for top dead centre, and check for another mark elsewhere?
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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 2:07 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi again,

You did not tell me the engine type and from the info, I guess it is a 2.3L as it has a timing belt.

Some timing lights would not work on a DIS system.

The belt did not slip. The most common fault would be missing tooth on thebelt and it usually happens at the crank sprocket.

Anything more than 2 tooth out of position would cause non starting.

Yes, you have to remove the external beltings and pulleys to replace the belting.

Here are the removal and installation procedures.
Since you have a broken belt, turn the crankshaft away from TDC before attempting to get the camshaft pulley marks into position.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingBelt93FordRanger0a_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingBelt93FordRanger0b_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingBelt93FordRanger0c_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingBelt93FordRanger0d_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingBelt93FordRanger01_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingBelt93FordRanger02_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_TimingBelt93FordRanger03_1.jpg

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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 9:09 AM
Tiny
WILLIAM PENDLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 180,000 MILES
New coil packs two. New spark plugs eight. New spark plug wires eight. Still no spark on passenger side cylinder first plug closest to belts. Does camshaft sensor have anything to do with this problem? Every now. And then it would get spark and motor would run right but short lived. Please help if you may know what's going on because I am stumped. Thanks. Lee.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros. The cam sensor would shut down all of the plugs not just one. Your description sounds more the the ignition control module having a bad transistor driver for cylinder one. It is the only part that controls which cylinders fire at what time. I would start by removing it, cleaning the areas around the screws (they ground the module) then apply some dielectric grease and re-mount it. See if the cleaning of the grounds and reseating the connectors cleared up the problem. If not you will want to replace the module.

This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WILLIAM PENDLEY
  • MEMBER
Mr. Steve thank you so kindly. Will let you know. The results tomorrow! Lee.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WILLIAM PENDLEY
  • MEMBER
Mr. Steve goodmorning. Here is a photo! What do you think?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WILLIAM PENDLEY
  • MEMBER
Mr. Steve my brother. I followed your steps and I want to thank you for taking time out of your life to help me. Just to let you know. My truck listed above is running better than it ever has. Thanks again. Lee!
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Great to hear. The pictures looked like it had a lot of corrosion. Please return anytime with your automotive questions.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TROYMCCONNELL7856
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
I am having trouble's with my 93 ford ranger with a 3.0 and I can't get no spark after changing distribtor's coil n computer and still have no spark at all can't figure out what it is
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Check fuses first and pcm relay then check red/lt grn wire on ignition moduel, dist and coil and see if power is going there. It may be a bad connector on either end and or a coil isn't good.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WILLIAM PENDLEY
  • MEMBER
Hi Mr. Steve. The truck is doing it again. This time the spark to that cylinder is staying longer then stops sparking. What do you think? Could it be the ICM going bad or something else?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WILLIAM PENDLEY
  • MEMBER
Mr. Steve, I didn't put any dielectric grease on it before I put it back on. Would that be the cause and why?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WILLIAM PENDLEY
  • MEMBER
Mr. Steve my ICM has only 3 screws. There are 4 holes on the ICM but on the manifold there is only 3 screw holes.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Sorry to hear that, more than likely it is failing because it didn't have a good ground for a while and it started damaging the transistors that are in the ICM. The cleaning showed it had an issue but it was a bit late to fully cure the problem. Replacing it should take care of the misfires and give you back a running truck. As for the 3 mounting screws, that isn't a problem, the two that ground it would be on the side where your screwdriver is pointing. The "missing" one isn't really needed. It's another of those "cost savings" items companies are famous for. The grease is there to allow for better heat transfer between the module and the manifold, leaving it off wouldn't be good for the long term but your module was already showing signs of failure so it wasn't the cause. When you install the replacement you can coat it with a thin layer. There will usually be some included with the new module. Check before you leave the store.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KVGOMEZ88
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
Hi I have a 93 ford ranger WITH a distributor cap its not the Vulcan motor im lost in what to replace next ive replaced the distributor cap the rotor the wires the plugs the ignition coil and im still not getting spark at the plugs im gonna replace the gear drive as ive heard that is a common problem in these trucks put I also read that the crank sensor or camshaft sensor can be the problem but when I look up where the camshaft sensor is on my truck I can't find any info to where its at or how to replace it please help me
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHER1
  • MEMBER
Why don't you stop simply throwing parts at it and start doing some testing. The first step is to test for injector pulse as a Crank Sensor issue will kill pulse also. If you have no pulse, test for power supply at the injector with the key on.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)

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