1991 Ford Ranger



July, 30, 2006 AT 12:42 PM

I'm having troubles figuring out my ranger it's a v 6 2.9 efi about 2 months a go my fuel pump went out so I replaced it and I did the spark plugs\wire\cap\rotor
and it ran fine for a couple months and then when I started driving for long distance it would cut out and the go back to normal and it would do it randomly
now it does it when it's cold or warm short and long
distance. And no it dies on me while I drive it any where and it dies and I start it it runs just fine and then it it does it agian randomly


3 Answers



July, 30, 2006 AT 3:49 PM

It may be your Hall Effect Sensor going bad. Here is the discription of what that is: PURPOSE
The Hall effect sensor creates Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal and indicates crankshaft position and engine rpm. The PIP signal is fed to both the Thick Film Integrated (TFI) module and the Electronic Control Assembly (ECA).

Internal components of the distributor.

The Hall sensor includes: The stationary Hall effect device is made up of: a voltage regulator
a Hall voltage generator (signal generator)
Darlington amplifier (signal inverter)
Schmitt trigger (digital signal shaper)
and an open collector output stage integrated in a single monolithic silicon chip.
A stationary magnet
a signature PIP rotary vane cup; one of the tabs is narrower than the others.

PIP Signal Operation

The Hall effect is a process in which current is passed in one direction through a slice of semiconductor material. By passing a magnetic field through this same semiconductor, a small change in voltage is produced in the output device.

The magnetic field stays strong and the voltage is high when one of the vane openings is in the gap between the Hall device and the permanent magnet. In this case the switch is OFF and the Hall Effect does not send a signal. When the TAB enters the gap, the armature cuts off the magnetic path to the Hall device and its voltage drops. In this case the switch is ON and the Hall Effect device sends a signal.

Signature PIP

When the ECA reconizes the narrow tab of the signature PIP rotary vane cup it identifies number 1 cylinder at 10 BTDC. The width of the PIP signal generated by this tooth is smaller than that of the other teeth.

The signal can also be used by the TFI-IV module if the Spark Output (SPOUT) signal from the ECA is lost.



July, 30, 2006 AT 9:46 PM

# 1 check your fuel pump pressure. I know you said you got a new one already. But that don't mean nothing new now a days, isn't worth nothing. Check it anyway. # 2. Check your fuel pressure regulator to make sure it is no damaged pule the red vaccum line off while it is running the pressur should peek out at max pressure so make sure you have a guage on it. Also make sure that it is not leaking gas out of it if so replace it what it is doing is pulling fuel back into the intake maniflod and flooding the engine. # 3 most important is to find out if you have a spark problem or a fuel problem. Even know it is fuel injected you still have to go to the basics air, fuel, compression and spark # 4 you may also have a coil getting hot and breaking down if so secondary voltage is weak and kills the motor or cutts out or stalls. Hope this helps ( NOS )



August, 15, 2006 AT 1:09 AM

Umm, some ppl are too smart for thier own good sometimes! I'm gonna go out on a hunch here and guess you didn't replace your fuel filter with the new pump did you?Sounds like a clogged filter to me, If you did replace the filter then the " too smart" guys may be right! : Shock:

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