Price for 1996 Ford Probe clutch replacement.

Tiny
PHILLIPCHAMBLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD PROBE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 156,000 MILES
"Hi!This is Phillip Chambley. I have some questions to ask about my car? The other day I was driving down the road and suddenly my clutch" completely went out?" Before then, it had been working great! With NO noise and NO slipping, absolutely NO past problems, whatsoever.

At first, it was stuck in gear, and then the clutch suddenly started going to the floor and NOT coming back up, making a "whirring sound?". By the time I got it to the repair shop, aprrox. 10 miles away, (running mostly in first gear at 3,000 rpms, because I had NO clutch). The clutch pedal was all the way to the floor and finally the engine was making a "Rattling sound?", But was NOT running hot.

My mechanic said something about the pressure plate rattling, I believe, I'm just not for sure? He also said it looked the hydraulics were working okay, he could see the peddle arm rocking back and forth. ("Whatever this means?").

He states the COMPLETE clutch assembly and possibly other surrounding parts will have to be replaced?

Questions?

1. My mechanic tells me that sometimes a clutch will "go out with NO warning or any symptoms at all?" Is this true? Please elaborate on your answer? (I've been driving manual transmissions for over 40 years? I've NEVER seen this happen?).

2. How can I honestly know if he is telling the truth? What do I look for in the in these "so-called worn out parts once he has finished the repair job?"

3. He also tells me this is about (12) twelve hours of labor to replace by his computer rates? Is this true?

4. His minimum price so far has risen to $680.00 including parts and labor? And this depends on what else he will have to replace, making the price that much higher?

5. In your opinion, what other parts would need to be replaced for a clutch that's NEVER had any symptoms, problems or noise in the past? "I honestly, think this is just weird after 40 years of driving manual transmission vehicles for a clutch to completely go out this fast within 45 minutes of driving with symptoms of a BAD vehicle clutch?".

6. How can I tell if this master cylinder clutch is low on fluid? Where is this particular part?

I've been driving this 1996 Ford Probe for about (3) three years and so far has been a "Great sports car to drive!" With very few problems. Your ELABORATE answers will be greatly appreciated,

Sincerely. Phillip Chambley.
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Monday, July 27th, 2009 AT 5:43 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok if you pedal is on the flow my first check would be the fluid level the clutch master is next to the brake master and you put brake fluid in it. Then I would bleed it and see how it reacts. I am more likely to believe a master or slave cylinder problem over a clutch problem. I also need to know did it feel like the clutch was slipping at all as you limped it to the shop? Get back to me on that and we will go over more from there.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2009 AT 10:00 AM
Tiny
PHILLIPCHAMBLEY
  • MEMBER
Thank you for your time and reply! I picked up my car today and had a long talk with my mechanic. This is basically what he stated:

"The reason why your clutch went out so suddenly was because the "throw out bearings finally went bad, sometimes within a snap of the finger! But there was nothing wrong with your clutch at the time.

The longer you drove it to our repair shop, the more these bad bearings were eating into the clutch pressure plate, which finally caused the "rattling sound" you were hearing in the end. Your hydraulics and slave drives checked out fine and did not have to be replaced.

He said even after I drove for approx. 12-15 miles mostly in first and second gear to their shop, the clutch itself was still working and NOT slipping, which I did notice was working properly.

He also told me that, even if I had NOT driven the vehicle, the entire clutch assembly would still have to be replaced, simply because it would be "stupid" to ONLY replace these particular bearings inside the clutch.

Stating that once you have the clutch out of the vehicle, 'it's foolish to only replace one or two parts, which would have only saved me roughly about $80.00 or less, versus the high cost of labor which he charged me $460.00, including the cost of re-surfacing the flywheel.

I purchased this clutch assembly kit from Advanced Auto Parts for$138.00 and gave it to him to try to save money on repairs, although I DO understand, if this part goes bad, there is NO warranty on labor, whenever customers provide their very own parts. Hopefully, I will not have any problems.

He also stated that unfortunately because I continued to drive the vehicle, it looks like I may have "scared the HUB" which is a part of the clutch and transmission on this particular vehicle. He said they sanded down the HUB and replaced the clutch assembly, and everything seems to be fine at the time.

My mechanic also showed me that the clutch on this 1996 Ford Probe (4 cylinder----2.0) is what they call "Hydraulic and NOT a cable" Apparently the clutch fluid runs from the BRAKE master cylinder, which I could Not find at the time, whenever it broke down.

So far, the vehicle is changing gears "GREAT!" Without any problems. Even the clutch pedal is easier to press or push down during gear shifting. However, the more I think about recently during gear shifting, SOMETIMES it was tough to get into gear?

"I just thought it was the extreme summer heat here in the south!" Whereas, certain auto parts seem to expand causing more vehicle problems." I guess I was wrong?"

Do you think this mechanic was telling me the truth? Yes or NO? Please elaborate on your answer. My family and I have many used cars that always need repair and are always looking for professional and expert advice.

Sincerely,
Phillip Chambley.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2009 AT 12:11 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
OK you never mentioned that the shifting was getting hard. I feel the mechanic was being up front with you. Yes if the release bearing just goes it will try to seaze and can cause a clutch to go very fast and can do lots of damage at times. Yes it is better to replace all the parts as most of the cost is labor and you can't tell how much stress the other parts went through as the clutch went. So just keep an ear open for noises and a feel for the shifting if it starts to feel like something isn't right then it problably isn't it is usually cheaper to check it out then to say no it is just hot or cold or something. If you take one of you vehicles in for repair and am not sure with the answer then just ask for clarification. Glad to hear it lives and thanks for you support.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2009 AT 9:27 AM

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