Does not start

Tiny
JOSE G7
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 BMW 528
  • 0.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 168,000 MILES
My car won’t start. I tried starting it without the ibs and I checked all the fuses in the front and in the back for current. The starter has current but it still won’t start. The battery checks positive. I don’t know what to do the lights the radio turns on. The brake is stiff but the lights and the radio still turn on. I have no idea what to do.
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Saturday, April 6th, 2019 AT 2:38 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

If the starter won't engage, I need you to follow the directions in the attached link to determine if power is getting to the right places on the starter. Do this and let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Here are a few links used for checking for power. I don't know if you need them, but I thought I would add them in case.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

When you check the starter, there will be a very heavy gauge wire running to it from the battery. There will also be a smaller one. The large wire should have 12 volts all the time. The smaller one should only get 12 volts when the key is in the start position. If there is power to the smaller wire when the key is in the start position, the battery is good, and 12 volts is at the larger wire, replace the starter. Do these checks and let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, April 6th, 2019 AT 9:50 PM
Tiny
JOSE G7
  • MEMBER
We did check the voltage of the wires and it said positive. We don t have a volt meter we have one of those things that light up. We took out the starter, it was a pain but we did it. We tried checking it and it wouldn t start so then we checked it at our local AutoZone where they confirmed it was bad. The little star wouldn t spin. I had already ordered another starter and it comes into tomorrow. I think that s it but we ll see if that s it when I install it. Do you have any tips or suggestions? Or reminders I should know? Thanks for the advice.
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Sunday, April 7th, 2019 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

If you were getting power, even seeing it with a test light, then the starter is bad. Good job, you diagnosed the problem perfectly.

I don't know if you want or need these, but here is a general link and the directions specific to your vehicle for removal and replacement of the starter. I realize it's a bit late for the removal, but the install is here. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

REMOVING AND INSTALLING/REPLACING STARTER (N52/N52K/N51/N53/N54)
12 41 020 - Removing and installing/replacing starter (N52/N52K/N51/N53/N54)

picture 1

Important!
Aluminium-magnesium materials.
No steel screws/bolts may be used due to the threat of electrochemical corrosion.
A magnesium crankcase requires aluminium screws/bolts exclusively.
Aluminium screws/bolts must be replaced each time they are released.
Aluminium screws/bolts are permitted with and without color coding (blue).
For reliable identification:
Aluminium screws/bolts are not magnetic.
Jointing torque and angle of rotation must be observed without fail (risk of damage).

picture 2

Necessary preliminary tasks:
- Switch off ignition
- Clamp off battery negative lead
- Remove intake air manifold See: Intake Manifold > Removal and Replacement

picture 3

Unlock plug (1) and remove.
Unfasten nut.
Tightening torque 12 41 3AZ .
Remove battery positive lead (2).

picture 4

Release screw (1).

Installation Note:
Replace aluminium screws.
Tightening torque 12 41 1AZ .

Release screws (2).

Installation Note:
Replace aluminium screws.
Tightening torque 12 41 2AZ .

Remove starter motor (3).

picture 5

Installation Note:
Check starter pinion and ring gear for damage. Replace starter if necessary.
N53 only: In the case of a separate term. 50 lead (with dis-connector socket), the term. 50 lead is laid parallel to knock sensor 2 behind the fuel line.

_______________________________

I hope that helps. If you run into trouble or have questions, let me know. Also, let me know if this fixed the issue.

Take care,
Joe
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Sunday, April 7th, 2019 AT 5:32 PM

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