CV drive shaft swap

Hi,

I looked up both and they are different. If you look below, I highlighted the part numbers for you. Note they are different. (Pics 1 and 2)

If you plan to replace it, here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Let me know which one you plan to repair (model year) and I'll get you the directions specific to your vehicle for replacement.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

That depends on if both are 2.2L automatics, and if both either do have or don't have ABS. The manual trans takes different axles and the 4cyl and 6 cylinder cars are also different.

Hi,

This is a good time to replace the ball joint because you will already have the lower control arm separated. However, you will need a ball joint remover to complete the job.

First, I attached the directions for the removal and replacement of a drive axle. The remaining pics are for the ball joint.

Take a look through them and let me know if you have questions. Also, here are a couple of links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-release-a-ball-joint

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Chris,

No problem whatsoever. If you have a chance, let me know how things turn out for you. Also, if you run into any trouble, let me know.

Take care and feel free to come back any time in the future. You are always welcome here.

Joe

One item about changing them out, double check the axle that you get to be sure it's correct. More than once I have gone to swap a Honda CV and gotten the wrong one. On many models the automatic and stick shift parts are very close in size, about a half inch different. Hard to see without setting them side by side. That difference doesn't sound like much, but I have seen them bottom out when the car hits a large bump, that can do serious damage if it happens a few times.

Chris,

Are you having trouble removing it? Do you have an air impact wrench? That is what I always use. Let me know if that is what you are referring to.

Also, if it is the spindle nut, there is a spot at the end where there is a place where it is staked into the threads to prevent it from moving. Make sure that it is pried away from the threaded portion. See pic 1.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

As long as the compressor can build enough pressure just to break it loose. Do you have someone hold the brake while you do this?

Also, if you have a breaker bar on it, smack it a few times with a dead blow hammer. That can break it loose.

Let me know.

Joe

Happy to help. Let me know how things turn out for you, Chris. Also, let me know if I can help.

Joe

Did you remove the snap ring before trying to press it out? If yes, then you are probably going to need to use different pushing adapters to push the shell out, if it won't move see if you can get the remaining stud to push out and then use a hacksaw to cut out to the edge of the shell on that one and knock it out. Or use a hammer and punch to see if you can crush in the shell to get it loose.

Okay, you mean the tapered stud is still in the A-arm. Try this, take a heavy hammer and hold it tight to one side of the arm. Now take another heavy hammer and give the opposite side a good whack with it. This generally will shock the eye enough that it will pop the stud out.