Engine cranks, but will not start

Thanks, done for the week, let you know what I find out.

Checked for ground at the PCM plug in, pin 10, it is grounded. Not sure where, but it lights up the test light. There are three wires that ground to the left side inner fender well, that I reconnected when I did the repair, but they are much bigger gauge. Took air box and tube off, no other wire anywhere. The grounds are hooked up on the firewall, didn't touch them. Crankshaft shows working on RPM live feed. Code reader says the fuel injectors are not working, but I assume they don't without spark. The only other thing I can think of that I may have changed; is I think I used the crash sensor that was on the radiator support from the salvage yard. Puzzled as to what happened.

Yeah, that's one of the first things I checked. I had also changed the ignition switch due to the u-joint getting bad in the old one. But I put the old one back in after I discovered that I had no spark. I had to change the bottom cover on the power distribution box but couldn't see any wires that may have been damaged doing that. I still have a few hairs left, but it's being a difficult one.

Okay, I have a reading on the scanner (live data) of between 142 - 150 for rpm while cranking, so crankshaft position sensor is working. WHT/VIO from Battery Junction Box to PCM is good, (battery +) WHT/VIO from PCM to ignition coils is good, also WHT/VIO to ignition transformer capacitor is good. I checked WHT/BRN from coil #5 to PCM and it is good, but still no ground signal coming from PCM to coil, or any of the coils. Rechecked grounds at PCM, good. Checking fuse #28 with test light, I have positive voltage at both terminals with the fuse removed. Light is somewhat dimmer at the GRY/VIO side, but not very much dimmer. After moving BJB around checking wires, I lost the ground signal for the Starter Relay, and Scanner wasn't able to link up. I pulled sharply upward on the BJB and the ground signal for Starter Relay returned, and Scanner was able to link up again. So, I seem to have an issue with wires or connections at the BJB, not sure which ones yet, but yellow to PCM, (ground for Starter Relay) a place to start. I had to move wires and BJB up out of the way to weld in half of the inner fender but haven't found any evidence of wire damage. Any advice? Keep you posted.

Checked the grounds again, and they are clean and tight. Still haven't found any damaged or loose wires, but have some puzzling results from using voltmeter at the l
Battery Junction box. Fuse#28 (PCM) side that is hot when key is on has battery voltage, while the other side (fused), has 24 volts when the fuse is removed. So, I have twice the battery voltage at the GRY/VIO wire with the fuse removed. If I remove fuse #24 (PCM transmission), the voltage drops to 10.6. With all the fuses back in, the voltmeter reads battery voltage at both sides of fuse#28. Why do I have voltage on the fuse side with the fuse removed, and why is it double the battery voltage? And why would pulling fuse#24 drop that voltage to 10.6? That's with fuse #28 still removed, and the voltmeter still on the fused side (GRY/VIO) wire? And better still, how does the voltage drop back to battery voltage on both sides of the fuse when I put it back in? I'm confused!

I'm not where the vehicle is right now, but yes, I have 24 volts on the side that should read 0 volts with the fuse removed. I don't understand how there is any voltage there with the fuse removed, much less 24 volts on a 12-volt system. I have checked the other fuses in that group, 24 through 29, and they all have 0 volts with the fuse removed. I've also checked the power feeding into the PCM relay, and that is 12 volts like it should be. However, with the fuse removed, that 12 volts isn't going anywhere. So the 24 volts in the GRY/VIO wire would have to be feedback coming from the PCM, or some kind of weird short in the box or wiring? I haven't been able to trace the wire back to the PCM yet, not sure which of the 3 plugs it goes to. Planning on further investigation tomorrow, Thursday. Everything else on the vehicle appears to work like it belongs, just no ground signal to the coils, and no fuel injectors, which I assume is because the PCM isn't sending them a ground signal either. Battery wasn't installed during any of the welding, and wires were all up and out of the way. Never run into an issue like this before. If there weren't so many wires involved, I would have spliced in a different Battery Junction Box from salvage yard to see if that would solve the problem. I just don't like to splice so many wires though.

Sorry I haven't posted anything lately, been busy with other vehicles, so I haven't had time to work on this one in a while. Is there any way to test the PCM other than replacing it? Is it possible to get a used one from a salvage yard for testing purposes? I know that on some vehicles you can swap PCMs easily, while others are much more specific. Thanks for your time and support!

Finally, back to working on the Escape. I changed the sensor above the radiator, and now I have spark, but I don't have any fuel. I can hear the fuel pump run, but no fuel from the injectors. Code reader says P0708-FF, P1702-FF, P0201 through PO 0206, and P0458. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows which plug at the PCM has the wiring for the injectors. And any thoughts on what is wrong.

I'm having trouble tracing the +power wire, GRN/red from the relay to the PCM, and the PCM to injectors. Haven't figured out which wire it is at the PCM. Only noticed one GRN/red wire at the PCM, and it is "live" at all times, even with the relay out. So that's not the right wire. Can't access the wires on the injectors without pulling intake manifold, so trying to find them in the wiring harness. But not having much luck. Can you tell me where I can access them in the harness? Thanks for all your help!

Okay, I will need to do some further research, I was thinking that one of the GRN/red wires from the fuel pump relay went to the PCM for the injectors, while the other one went to the fuel pump. But from the sounds of your reply, one wire goes directly to the injectors, while the other one goes to the fuel pump. I definitely have power at the fuel pump, as I can clearly hear it running when I turn the key on, and it doesn't run with the relay removed. Have to check both those wires at the relay end and go from there. Thanks again!