If you have spark, the ASD relay has to be turning on. That means the cam and crank sensors are working because it's their signals that tell the Engine Computer to turn the ASD relay on.
If you're no longer getting the "No Buss" message, read the fault codes again, but be aware codes related to the cam and crank sensors often don't set just from cranking the engine. They need more time to be detected, as in when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. For that reason, never assume those sensors are okay just because they haven't set a fault code.
Go back to the dark green / orange wire at the ignition coil pack or any injector, and monitor that with a test light. You should see it light up bright for one second when you turn on the ignition switch, then it should turn on again while you're cranking the engine. If it doesn't turn on during cranking, you'll need a scanner to view the two sensor signals and see if one is missing.
If the test light flickers during cranking, the best suspect is the timing belt has jumped one tooth. That puts the two sensors out-of-sync and a fault code will set stating that. Alternately, you may find you only get spark from one of the ignition coils for two cylinders, and it's sporadic, and there will be no spark from the other coil.
If spark remains strong and steady from both coils, check the fuel pressure. If that has dropped low or to 0 psi, we'll need to look at the fuel pump relay and circuit. Normal pressure in around 48 to 50 psi.
Thursday, February 14th, 2019 AT 6:13 PM