Adjusting clutch?

Tiny
LARRY FAUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 1987 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 170,000 MILES
My clutch has started to slip after only 8 months of use
Thursday, July 23rd, 2009 AT 7:18 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
DR LOOT
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,311 POSTS
That truck has a hydraulic clutch which is not adjustable have you checked the fluid in your clutch cylinder? Or you may have a bad master cylinder. You're not being very specific in your description tell me how much free play it has, and how far the pedal comes off the floor before the clutch engages.
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Tuesday, October 1st, 2019 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
LAESP
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1987 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 10,000 MILES
I have a 1987 Chevy R10 pickup with a 3 on the tree manual trans. All of a sudden I have a couple inches of totally free play before I feel any resistance when pressing in on the clutch pedal. I almost have to push it to the floor to even have the starter engage. Is there a clutch cable adjustment. I just had the master cylinder replaced a couple years ago.
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MICSHOL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Are you sure we are talking about an 87. I've never seen one that new with a three on the tree
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGREDC10
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1985 CHEVROLET TRUCK
Transmission problem
1985 Chevy Truck V8 Two Wheel Drive Manual ??? miles

1985 Chevy C10, 350V8 4 Speed Manual Trans. 1 Ton Dually.... I am wondering what the usual cost is for service on my Manual Trans. Clutch. My clutch is going out and I need the parts replaced. What is the cost usually for this service? I have never replaced a clutch before.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/375173_Photo0029_1.jpg

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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Looks like about 4.5 hours of labor. As far as the clutch itself, it will depend on what you decide to use. Reman clutches are less expensive but tend to have more problems, I always go with new. Looks liek those clutchs go from about $450 on up, so you may want to call and shop around for different options
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAMKEV1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1985 CHEVROLET TRUCK
Transmission problem
1985 Chevy Truck V8 Two Wheel Drive Manual

WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO REPLACE A CLUCTH KIT. IT IS A 4 SPEED. I NEED TO DO THIS MYSELF AND HAVE A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE BUT WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT I DO NOT MISS ANY THING?
THANKS
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Hello
Thanks for the donation.

Below are the replacement procedures for replacing your vehicles Clutch, Slave Cylinder, Master Cylinder & Resevoir and Driven Disc & Pressure Plate. Let me know if you need further assistance.

CLUTCH
The driveshaft, transmission and bellhousing must be removed in order to access the clutch. The clutch can then be unbolted from the flywheel. Remove the flywheel, inspect carefully for cracks and resurface. Some flywheels are flat, some are stepped. Be sure the proper step measurement is achieved.
When installing, the clutch must be perfectly aligned (using a pilot tool) so that the transmission input shaft will slip into place. Use a heavy floor jack to keep transmission up while it is unbolted.

DRIVEN DISC & PRESSURE PLATE

REMOVAL:

WARNING: The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

DIAPHRAGM CLUTCH PROCEDURE
Before removing the bellhousing the engine must be supported. This can be done by placing a hydraulic jack, with a board on top, under the oil pan.

Remove the transmission.
Disconnect the clutch fork pushrod and spring. Remove the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch fork by pressing it away from the ball mounting with a screwdriver until the fork snaps loose from the ball or remove the ball stud from the clutch housing. Remove the throwout bearing from the clutch fork.
Install a pilot tool (an old mainshaft makes a good pilot tool) to hold the clutch while you are removing it.
Before removing the clutch from the flywheel, mark the flywheel, clutch cover and one pressure plate lug, so that these parts may be assembled in their same relative positions. They were balanced as an assembly.

Loosen the clutch attaching bolts one turn at a time to prevent distortion of the clutch cover until the tension is released.
Remove the clutch pilot tool and the clutch from the vehicle.
Check the pressure plate and flywheel for signs of wear, scoring, overheating, etc. If the clutch plate, flywheel, or pressure plate is oil-soaked, inspect the engine rear main seal and the transmission input shaft seal, and correct leakage as required. Replace any damaged parts.

INSTALLATION:
Install the pressure plate in the cover assembly, aligning the notch in the pressure plate with the notch in the cover flange. Install pressure plate retracting springs, lockwashers and drive strap to pressure plate bolts. Tighten to 11 ft. Lbs. The clutch is now ready to be installed.
Turn the flywheel until the X mark is at the bottom.
Install the clutch disc, pressure plate and cover, using an old mainshaft as an aligning tool.
Turn the clutch until the X mark or painted white letter on the clutch cover aligns with the X mark on the flywheel.
Install the attaching bolts and tighten them a little at a time in a crossing pattern until the spring pressure is taken up.
Remove the aligning tool.
Pack the clutch ball fork seat with a small amount of high temperature grease and install a new retainer in the groove of the clutch fork.

WARNING: Be careful not to use too much grease. Excessive amounts will get on the clutch fingers and cause clutch slippage.
Install the retainer with the high side up and with the open end on the horizontal.
If the clutch fork ball was removed, reinstall it in the clutch housing and snap the clutch fork onto the ball.
Lubricate the inside of the throwout bearing collar and the throwout fork groove with a small amount of graphite grease.
Install the throwout bearing. Install the clutch housing.
Install the transmission.
Further installation is the reverse of removal. Adjust the clutch.

COIL SPRING CLUTCH PROCEDURE

Basically, the same procedures apply to diaphragm clutch removal as to coil spring clutch removal.

Before removing the clutch, punch-mark the flywheel, clutch cover and one pressure plate lug so that the components can be reassembled in their original locations.
Loosen the attaching screws one turn at a time to prevent distortion.
When the clutch plate is removed, be sure to mark the flywheel side.
Place 3/8 in. Wood or metal spacers between the clutch levers and the cover to hold the levers down as the holding screws are removed.

SLAVE CYLINDER

REMOVAL:
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
Disconnect the hydraulic line from the master cylinder.
Remove the slave cylinder retaining nuts at the bellhousing and remove the slave cylinder.
Cover all hydraulic lines to prevent dirt and moisture from entering the system.

INSTALLATION:
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the slave cylinder-to-bellhousing nuts to 10-14 ft. Lbs. (14-20 Nm). Refill the master cylinder reservoir with new DOT 3 brake fluid and bleed the system of air.

MASTER CYLINDER

REMOVAL:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the lower steering column covers.
Remove the lower left side air conditioning duct, if so equipped.
Disconnect the pushrod from the clutch pedal.
Before disconnecting the reservoir hose, drain the reservoir or prepare a plug for the line.
Disconnect the slave cylinder hydraulic line from the master cylinder.
Remove the master cylinder retaining nuts and remove the master cylinder.
Remove the retaining nuts and remove the reservoir and gasket from the firewall.

INSTALLATION:
Install the master cylinder with a new gasket to the cowl. Tighten the retaining nuts to 10-14 ft. Lbs. (14-20 Nm).
Install the remaining components in the reverse of the removal procedure.
Fill the reservoir with new DOT 3 brake fluid and bleed the system of air.

BLEEDING CLUTCH SYSTEM:
Fill the clutch master cylinder with new DOT 3 brake fluid. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the slave cylinder retaining bolts. Hold the cylinder about 45 Â with the bleeder at the highest point.
Fully depress the clutch pedal and open the bleeder screw. Repeat until all air is expelled from the system, usually after 4 or 5 times. Be sure to close the bleeder screw before releasing the pedal to prevent air from being sucked into the system.
Be sure that the fluid level remains full in the clutch master cylinder throughout the bleeding procedure.

Thanks for using 2CarPros. Com!
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
  • 336 POSTS
  • 1985 CHEVROLET TRUCK
Transmission problem
1985 Chevy Truck V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual 140k miles

Hello, I am having problems with my 85 k20 and the clutch. I do not have a hydraulic clutch, though that may matter little, and getting it to engage. When I first got the truck I was not getting enough engagement from the clutch, then a realized there was a bar that pushed the rod into the clutch in the trans, I adjusted it to the max and it worked great. Then it started to go again and I tightened the bar the pedal turned and got some more use out of it. Now it is starting to go again and there is no more to adjust.
I know some things about cars, but not clutches and transmissions. I believe that I have worn out the fingers in the clutch and need to replace them, though know not what I need to buy, how much it will cost, nor how hard it will be. The 4x4 part it what worries me. My transfer case is larger than the trans and it does not look easy to start taking things apart. I am also worried that having it done will cost a pretty penny in labor. Any thoughts? Do I need to rebuild the entire clutch or just a piece or two? Any help will be great, thanks
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DUBBYCHEVY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I don't know for sure that that is the exact problem you are having, but to answer your cost and time issues, it will cost at least $130 and you have to remove the transmission from the engine.

While it MIGHT be possible to change the pressure plate and friction plate without completely removing the transmission from the truck you are better off completely dropping it out. This gives you more room to work and ensure that you do the job correctly.

A clutch kit will be what you would need if that is in fact the problem, and you also need to check your flywheel when you remove the old pressure plate to ensure that you don't have any hot spots or scrapes cuts dings etc. It is a good idea to get it resurfaced or just replaced anyways. If you put in a flywheel that isn't resurfaced and it has hot spots you will be replacing the clutch again real soon. The friction plate will tear apart damaging both the pressure plate and flywheel.
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
APLATZER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1982 CHEVROLET TRUCK
Transmission problem
1982 Chevy Truck V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual? Miles

the truck would not go into gear unless you turn the engine off. Clutch pedal felt weak so we try to bleed the air out of the hydraulic clutch. Now we can not bleed the air out.
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

you will have to check the master cyl and slave cyl for leaks, more than likely the master is leaking and drawing in air with each pedal application.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACKSONSPARTS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1985 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
We have a customer with a 1985 Chevy P/U with a 350 engine 3/4 ton P/U. On the clutch master cylinder reservoir there is what LMC is callinf a reservoir seal. Looks like a little cup that goes into the reservoir. Need toknow where we can get one LMC no longer has any and I have checked everywhere for him. Appreciate any input into the whereabouts of a seal.
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Junk Yard or new cylinder. Boot bad, torn, disapper? What is problem?
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Junk Yard or new cylinder. What is problem?
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CAMERONDUNCAN40
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1963 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 65,000 MILES
After long term storage I moved my truck to renew restoration efforts. Although I had driven the truck to it's storage location w/out problem now I find the clutch won't disengage. I can start in neutral but have to grind it into gear and can't clutch to stop. Are there any tricks to free it up or will I have to drop the tranny to remove the pressure plate?
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Clutch disc has seized to input and/or flywheel. Try starting in gear may break free. Also try spraying penatrate oil in at shift fork aim towards input shaft.
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 1:19 PM (Merged)

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