Engine stalls while going down the road?

do you know what your fuel pressure is when this happens and what the fuel pressure is doing, such as when you turn the key on, does the pressure raise then drop right away. This guide should help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

engine quits when come to stop it doesnt do it all the time but started about a week ago and is more frequent now

Hello, you might clean the throttle-body, check fuel pressure. Go from here.

2000 Silverado, 190,000 km, automatic. I was driving along and it just lost power and quit working. Started it up again, drove about 1 km and died again, and wont start at all. I have about half tank of gas left, still have power, but wont turn over. What could it be?

Wont turn over or wont start? Sounds like it may have lost a fuel pump, check for fuel pressure

it wont start, i just replaced the fuel pump about 2 years ago, would it still be that?

Check for fuel pressure with a manual gauge. Does it have spark?

I've got a 2000 Silverado Z71 4X4 5.3 with 70K miles.

Occasional Problem: Starts immediately, but dies as soon as key is released from start position. After waiting 15-20 minutes starts and runs normally.

Truck has done this upon rare occasion (like once a year) for the last 15K miles. After such an episode, it might not be repeated for months.

Lately it's been doing it often, to the point of being worrysome.

The local dealer doesn't have a clue, and (typically) says that if it won't exhibit its problem while there they can't help. I fear they'll just start an expensive R&R procedure in a shotgun approach.

Thanks for your help!
Rick

[quote:4adb50e749="rickmohr"]I've got a 2000 Silverado Z71 4X4 5.3 with 70K miles.

Occasional Problem: Starts immediately, but dies as soon as key is released from start position. After waiting 15-20 minutes starts and runs normally.

Truck has done this upon rare occasion (like once a year) for the last 15K miles. After such an episode, it might not be repeated for months.

Lately it's been doing it often, to the point of being worrysome.

The local dealer doesn't have a clue, and (typically) says that if it won't exhibit its problem while there they can't help. I fear they'll just start an expensive R&R procedure in a shotgun approach.

Thanks for your help!
Rick[/quote:4adb50e749]first,I would clean the throttle body out.Also have the fuel pressure checked for bleeding off.

The truck will start, run for a second or two then shut off. The fuel pump and fuel filter have both been replaced. What else could it be?

Can you hear the fuel pump run when you first turn the key to the 'on' position? If you don't, then you still have a problem there. Check the fuel pump relay and related fuses. Fuel pressure regulator could be bad. I'd check ALL fuses anyway. If you can keep it running for more than a second or two with starting fluid, then I would say you have a fuel system problem, maybe the electrical connectors weren't plugged in well to the pump, or you have some kind of wiring problem. If you have no oil pressure, I think that the computer will shut the engine down to avoid damage. Maybe oil pressure sending unit. Can you get any trouble codes?

Our 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 was driven to the store (acting just fine) and when we left the store, it wouldn't idle right, very rough. It wouldn't respond to the gas pedal. We started it several times and it would idle roughly for 5 - 20 seconds before stalling. Finally, it settled into a normal idle and we took it to a repair shop.
The repair shop called us and told us that it would cost us about $1000 to replace the fuel pump and there was 'another problem too, but we'd deal with that after the fuel pump'. I insisted on knowing what the second issue was and they told me it had to do with the 'air intake system' but wouldn't get more specific.

We picked the truck up and brought it home. (Still starting badly with rough idle and stalling but we got it moving.) It stalled three times in a 20 minute drive, while the truck was moving. I followed my husband home and he would just start cruising and slowing down, trying to restart it, till he'd eventually just stop and have to sit there until we got it started again.

Tech codes from receipt:
Perform EEC test: Found P1416 air system. Check fuel pressure: 15PSI.Rec; Fuel pump, F/F.
Tech found code P1416 System Air Bank 2, Fuel Pressure 16pts at axle.


Now, possibly related (or not)... my husband was run off the road by an 18-Wheeler the evening before. He was going around 50-60 mph when he was edged off the road by the Semi. Uneven dirt and mud, tall weeds, very bumpy. He's worried something may have happened then to cause these issues.


We do not have $1000 to drop on any kind of repair. We can remove the bed to get to the fuel pump if needed... but I'm not 100% convinced it's the fuel pump. If the system air bank 2 is messed up, could it cause bad idleing/stalling? Would replacing the air pump fix that?

WHERE in the vehicle is the system air bank / air pump (I'd like to look for some loose wires / loose anything).

The incident may just be a coincidence. The fuel pressure is extremely low, that will cause the poor running/stalling, should be 55-62 psi. The code is for the secondary air injection. That is almost always the "gulp" or check valves on the air injection pipes where the rubber hoses hook to the manifold.The valve goes away and the pump cant put air into the exhaust because the backpressure is too strong.I do suggest doing both of them, if one failed the other is usually right behind it and they are inexpensive

The incident may just be a coincidence. The fuel pressure is extremely low, that will cause the poor running/stalling, should be 55-62 psi. The code is for the secondary air injection. That is almost always the "gulp" or check valves on the air injection pipes where the rubber hoses hook to the manifold.The valve goes away and the pump cant put air into the exhaust because the backpressure is too strong.I do suggest doing both of them, if one failed the other is usually right behind it and they are inexpensive. With the fuel pump, check all lines to be sure nothing got smashed when he was run off the road, if all is ok, I strongly suggest using an A/C Delco pump.Others are cheaper, but dont perform as well

Is there a place that shows a GOOD diagram / photograph of what things should look like?

Chilton online is .... bah! I've never felt so taken by a such a well known company.... online they are the anti-helpful.

You can try a Mitchell online sub here

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitchell1eautorepair-car-repair-manuals

What is it exactly you want to know should look like?

A healthy non-damaged fuel pump area and the wires/tubes/ for the system air bank 2.

Electrical problem
2000 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

truck has 119,000 miles on it. stalls about once a week while slowing down to make turns, truck is warmed up already. no codes or codes stored in history when it stalls, i am not able to restart it by cranking on it, but i am able to start it after holding down the gas pedal. i have replaced the idle speed motor, throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and spark plugs. what is the problem?

The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. All you have to do is look for any damage to the tank or marks where something may have hit it when he was run off the road.As far as the air injection, I couldnt find any pics of it in Mitchell either. There is a pipe that bolts to each exhaust manifold, at the end of that pipe is the diverter valve or gulp valve that you need to replace.Attached to the other end of the valve is a rubber line approx 3/4 inch in diameter that goes to the air injection pump

Hi:
Have you checked for vacuum leaks (intake)?

no leeks of any sort from what I can at least see. do you think it is one of the following: PCM, Computer, or Crankshaft Position Sensor?

Thanks

Hi:
It could be any of those. The crank position sensor is the cheapest, but have you had the computer scanned? Many parts stores will do it for free and it may halep guide us.

yeah I had it scanned at a dealership, they ran a diagnostics test and said nothing was wrong with it, i then took it to a parts store and did it myself and no codes were stored in history and nothing was out of the ordinary.

My concern is replacing things that are good and not fixing the problem. I really feel it's a vacuum leak. Does the truck have the 305CI? If so, they had problems with the intake gaskets. And yes, they were hard to find.

truck has the 327

I dorve approx.75 miles, everything worked fine, when the engine ran high rpm's and had trouble getting up to 30-40 miles an hour. turned the corner after approx. 1/2 mile and the ngine died. tried turning it over and it would but not start. no service engine light. called for a tow, towed back the 75 miles, dropped off in driveway and it turned over and ran normal, prob. due to the cooling off. Lately I've had low coolant light come on i would check it and seemed normal in the overflow, would add some more and would stay off for a few months, last two days ive noticed drips of coolant. and now with this no low coolant light either. The last few weeks, ive noticed about 2-3 times it would lag, hesitate with power but it was just momentary and didn't last like this. i've also had over the last 6 months a service engine light come on and read the code and it was emmisions, the technician told me it was common with chevy and mostle erase the code when it comes on and thats about it, its been happening more lately. i didn't drive it tonight after the tow because i didnt want it to stall somewhere.but starts and runs fine.

I don't think the coolant issue and engine dieing are related. First, the EVAP code that was read should have been taken care of. But again, that shouldn't have caused the engine to die. Without a check engine light, it makes me lean toward a fuel issue. Usually, if a sensor goes bad, the check engine light will show. (Usually but not always). What I need you to try is to let the vehicle idle to see if it dies again. If it does, I need you to check if the engine is getting spark to the plugs (if you need directions, let me know) and if there is proper fuel pressure (again let me know if you need directions). At that point, we will know what is causing the engine to die, electrical issues or lack of fuel.

Try that and let me know what you find.

Joe

I've had it idleing for about 20 mins and drove approx. 1 mile and got it up to about 45 mph. it seems just fine now, but now very cautious to drive it any length. all the gauges seem normal, still no check engine light. I replaced the fuel pump and filter about 1 1/2 yrs ago. when it was the pump it just died and no starting at all. What about the fuel regulator?..i just dont understand why it died or hesitated before, why would the temp of the engine effect the power or fuel/electrical?. i5t must be getting spark? if its running now?..I dont know how to check this or the fuel pressure however. how do i address the evap emmisions ,..they sadi it was prob. just my fuel cap and very common in the chevy trucks, but i dont know what else to look for or check/replace.

Here is a how to for checking fuel pump pressure. There is a video that includes how to check the regulator. As far as the temp having an affect on the engine, if the engine was actually overheating, a loss in power is very common.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

You will need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend you one.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

ok,..i let it idle for a total of approx. 1 1/2"hrs. driving it around the block. the i went to the auto store got seafoam and oil change,..went home and nothing, worked just fine. when the truck stalled it was normal temp. and i don't know how that would effect the rpm's. it idled at 5000, if that matters, i think that also is normal. now i'm nervous to drive it out of town, maybe just some crap going through the gasline?...I'll check the pressure, and what should i address about the emmisions error code, what should i check - do? I appreciate your help and any ideas are helpful.

It could have been bad fuel. The only way to be sure is to wait and see if the problem continues.

As far as the EVAP, I need to know what code they got. Has the light come back on ?

Last night our truck hesitated very briefly when pulling away from a stop sign. ran good for a short time then died at a stop light. It will briefly start and (Kind of run for a few moments then die again. If I wait for a while I can get it to do the same thing, but it never reaches full idle before it dies.

Check/Monitor the fuel pressure if its within specs to rule out a weak fuel pump-

I have the very same problem,turned out to be the fuel pump.

the transmission was slipping and the engine was putting and dying out about 20 minutes into my 30 minute drive out of the blue with no previous history of this problem the engine light did NOT come on at all while this was happening any ideas what this could be and an easy fix for this??? thanks
derek

Have someone with a diagnostic scanner check your system. Read this article, maybe it will help https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

My truck did have a high idle and now it will not idle. It runs great but when you take your foot off the gas it shuts off. no codes. catalytic converter is not bad.

Good morning.

What makes you think it was the catalytic converter?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Roy

Driving down freeway truck started acting like i was breaking or if it was out of gas sputter when tired give gas and wouldn't go pulled over and truck died changed the etm and crunk up for2 seconds then died tried again crunk up went drive off and acted like no gas and died got it going again by hitting gas tank under truck but soon in reverse or drive and give gas dies again what's the problem

Sound's like a bad fuel pump if you hit the gas tank and you got it going again. I would do a fuel pressure reading.You can rent a fuel pressure gauge at auto zone.