1996 Chevy S-10 New Clutch

  • 1996 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 295,687 MILES
I have basic automotive skills with a decent number of tools. My S-10 needs a new clutch. It doesn't slip, but the throw-out bearing whines terribly (especially after trying to teach my kids how to drive a stick!). Is the job of installing a new clutch extremely difficult, or is it something that I can do myself? Thanks for your time.

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Monday, April 27th, 2009 AT 9:20 AM

1 Reply

Thanks for the donation

Replacing a clutch is a fairly lengthy and complicated repair. However, I will go ahead and post the replacement procedures for you to look over. If you feel you have the experience and tools to perform the repair than I will be more than happy to help you throughout the process. However, if you feel this is more than you should take on than I suggest having a reputable local shop do the repairs to prevent any further damage to vehicle or harm to self.

Remove the manual transmission assembly from the vehicle.
If not performed for transmission removal, disconnect the slave cylinder from the clutch release fork and move it aside.
If the bell housing was not removed with the transmission, remove the inspection cover (if equipped), then loosen the retaining bolts and remove the bell housing from the rear of the engine assembly.
Remove the clutch fork from the ball stud (by carefully prying it free) and the dust boot (if applicable). Except for vehicles equipped with a New Venture Gear transmission, carefully pry the retainer out of the clutch fork (if it is not damaged). If necessary, remove the ball stud.
A used clutch drive gear may be used as an alignment tool. This may be available inexpensively from a junk yard or a transmission rebuilding shop.
Insert a clutch alignment tool such as No. J-33169, into the crankshaft pilot bearing to support the clutch assembly.
Check for an "X'' or other painted mark on the pressure plate and flywheel. If no marks are readily visible, matchmark the flywheel, clutch cover and pressure plate lug for installation purposes.
Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts, evenly and alternately, a little at a time, until the spring tension is released. Remove the pressure plate, driven clutch plate and alignment tool.

Check the flywheel for cracks, wear, scoring or other damage. Check the pilot bearing for wear. If necessary, replace the bearing by removing it with a slide-type bearing puller and driving in a new one with a wood or plastic hammer. Lubricate the new pilot bearing with a few drops of machine oil.
If available, check the driven plate for run-out using a dial gauge. Run-out should not exceed 0.02 in. (5.08mm).
Using the clutch alignment tool to support the clutch, align and install the clutch plate and cover assembly. If a new clutch is being installed align the manufacturer's marks as directed.
Install the washers and bolts, then tighten each bolt one turn at a time to avoid warping the clutch cover. If spring washers were used, new ones should be installed. Once the bolts are fully threaded, tighten each one to 28 ft. Lbs. (38 Nm) 0n 1994-95 2.2L models, 33 ft. Lbs. (45 Nm) on 1996-99 2.2L models, or 29 ft. Lbs. (40 Nm) on all 4.3L models.
Remove the clutch alignment tool.
If removed, install the ball stud. Pack the seat and coat the rounded end of the ball stud with high temperature (wheel-bearing) grease.
The clutch release bearing is permanently packed with lubricant and should NOT be soaked in cleaning solvent as this will dissolve the lubricant.
Install the release bearing and the clutch fork. Pack the inside recess (A) and coat the outside groove (B) of the release bearing with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease.
If separate, install the flywheel housing and install the retaining bolts.
If removed, install the inspection cover.
Reposition and secure the slave cylinder.
Install the manual transmission assembly.

Let me know if you need further assistance.

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Monday, April 27th, 2009 AT 11:32 AM

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