I tried and tried the BFH technique with bigger hammers and more elbow grease but no success.
While looking for answers around the internet, I came across a great solution from, of all places, a Ford truck chat site. Well, the technique worked wonderfully, was easy to do, required little effort, and didn t create the possibility of damage from constant hammer pounding. I d like to share it with you because in some cases it may make your life a little easier - it sure did it for me!
1. Remove the caliper and mounting bracket.
2. Insert a inch x 3 inch bolt into both the top and bottom caliper mounting bracket bolt holes with a heavy cut washer and nut on the inside towards the rotor. NOTE: If you want to save the rotor for resurfacing, you may want to add a nut or something else to the thread so that the bolt doesn t mar the surface of the rotor during the next steps. I don t ever reuse rotors so this was not an issue.
2. An important step is to mark the rotor with a magic marker between the bolts. This will help you rotate the rotor 180 degrees in the next step.
3. Tighten the nut while holding the head of the bolt to put outward pressure on the rotor. Do this for both the top and bottom bolt somewhat equally. Loosen the nuts, rotate the rotor 180 degrees, and re-tighten the bolts again. Repeat this until the rotor becomes free.
4. Before re-assembling, I put anti-seize compound on the front and rim of the hub and on the inside rim of the new rotor.
Try this technique - it really works well! This worked great in my case because of the rust on the back of the rotor, but the reports from the website I got this from say that this works just as well for frozen rotors due to rust between the front surface of the hub and rotor. The constant pressure will eventually wear down the rust lock between the rotor and hub.
Friday, February 1st, 2008 AT 8:10 AM