You're looking at this the wrong way. Each fuse protects multiple parts of multiple circuits today since everything involves numerous computers, so there's no way they can list everything a fuse affects. In the shop, when you're paying us by the hour, we don't have time to fiddle with every fuse to inspect it visually, and we sure don't have time to sit down with a service manual and figure out which three to six fuses are involved with the dead circuit. We grab a test light and poke it into the two small test-point holes on each fuse. In this way, we can test up to two dozen fuses in a minute.
You need the ignition switch turned on, and the circuit with the problem turned on. Both test points on a fuse should have 12 volts. If you find a fuse with 0 volts on both sides, that circuit isn't turned on and a blown fuse would be irrelevant to the story. What you're looking for is a fuse that has 12 volts on one test point and 0 volts on the other.
Fuses often blow from the current surge when connecting the battery. All that's needed is to replace those. If a fuse blows again, either immediately, or intermittently, I have a trick for working with that.
Tuesday, July 28th, 2015 AT 4:35 PM