Check engine light?

Tiny
AEBERLE11
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 84,000 MILES
I own the van listed above E350 Econoline van. I was driving on the interstate today when it just popped and started clunking very loudly! With each tire rotation on the front it seemed like I was going over a speed bump and a clunk every time. Also, the tires on the rear won't rotate backwards. I'm stumped but need to work tomorrow. Only the check engine light is on.
Saturday, July 12th, 2014 AT 8:55 PM

32 Replies

Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
It sounds like your having a problem with the transmission going into reverse. Let run the codes to see what comes up. Here is a guide to help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Saturday, July 12th, 2014 AT 11:40 PM
Tiny
AEBERLE11
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you so much for the quick response! I took your advice and removed the tires to looked at the brakes.
Everything looked okay to me. They don't smell, no grooves and the pads are brand new. It seems more like the engine is popping. When it is idling it's nice and smooth but when it starts rolling the engine jumps and goes pop pop pop! Then the tires seize up. I've had to prior issues with transmission, but if that's what it is I'll have to get someone to look at it for me. Thank you so much for helping me!
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Sunday, July 13th, 2014 AT 5:38 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
If the popping noise is coming from intake manifold.
You will need to check the engine timing.
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Sunday, July 13th, 2014 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
AEBERLE11
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Van's in the shop. They said the timing is fine. They suspect a faulty differential. Does that seem possible?
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Monday, July 14th, 2014 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
Yes, because you are having the problem with the rear wheels turning. Call around to some salvage yards and see how much for a used one. Good luck let me know what happens.
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Tuesday, July 15th, 2014 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
MTRDUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 51 POSTS
  • 2006 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 45,755 MILES
I have this van (VIN #1FDXE45S76HA82073) with the "check engine" light staying on. I have a code reader and found the code being logged was a PO191 (fuel rail pressure sensor circuit range/performance). I disconnected/reconnected the sensor harness plug at the sensor but it made no difference. I then cleared all the codes and road tested it but it continues to come back. I wrote down all the freeze data associated with this code setting & will send it if you want/need it. How do I go about finding the specific circuit problem with just my code reader?
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,394 POSTS
Have you checked your fuel pressure? It sounds like your regulator is bad. Please advise.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MTRDUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 51 POSTS
No, I haven't yet, guess I assumed it had to be in the sensor/computer circuit somewhere. I road tested it twice, 10 miles each time, and it runs well and has plenty of power and pickup. There hasn't been any complaint of performance issue. I do mobile repair so it'll be later in the week before I can get back to the van to check the pressure. What is the normal pressure for this van?
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,394 POSTS
Fuel pressure
5.4 & 4.6 engine;
key on (engine not running) 35-45 psi
engine running 28-45

6.8 engine
Key on 40-50
running 55-65
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+1
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VAN MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 43,000 MILES
I replaced the battery and alternator on my 2006 E-250 and the rpms dropped very low and stalls sometimes. The battery and alternator have been replaced but now it's stalling and the rpms drop very low. Today the check engine light came on and it won't shut off.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
CEL/SES On

What you need to do here is have the computer scanned for OBD2 codes, there's a problem within the engine management system that caused the light to turn On, this is your starting point of diagnosis
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
  • 2005 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 5.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 221,000 MILES
Hello, I'm trying to find out how to shut off my engine check light so I can go through emissions.

It has been coming on and off for years now and any
time I've taken it in, they say there's nothing wrong and to ignore it.

Well, I have gotten extremely lucky each time I had to do an emissions test as it had gone off for the test and back on later. Weird!

But this time, it has been on for a while and not going off. The van runs excellent, so I see no need to take it in.

Can I simply remove a fuse to shut it off or do I have to take the entire dash apart to remove the bulb?

Thanks for any insight on this!
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,322 POSTS
If the light is on it you have a problem and need to get it scanned for whatever code(s) are stored in the system. There are codes or the light won't be on. That is the first step. It could be an EVAP code, converter code or virtually anything, many codes cause no driving issues but are still there. Get it scanned and post the code(s) and we have a starting point.

As for removing the bulb, that won't work. Neither will just erasing the code to turn the light off. Here's why, During the test the first thing you do is turn on the key and verify the bulb comes on during the test. No light on = no pass. Next if the tester says "Well maybe the bulb did just burn out". They connect up to the van. The test will cycle the lamp on and off and ask if it is working. Tester punches Yes, thinking a bad bulb. The next thing the test does is look at all of the various system monitors that are set as the van is run and driven in normal use, in most states you are allowed 1 incomplete monitor for that year vehicle. These are reset as soon as you cleared the codes, and depending on what the code is the tests may never run with the code set and the light on. Any more than one monitor not complete = Fail. The last thing the inspection machine does if it has made it this far it to scan for any current codes or pending codes that can turn on the light as well as if the light is currently being commanded on by any code. If it finds a code or lamp request = Fail. Doesn't matter if the bulb is there or not as the PCM still shows all of the above to the inspection machine.

Whoever was telling you "Just drive it, it's nothing to worry about" wouldn't be anyone I would ever take a vehicle to for anything. The reason being is that there is only that single warning light. So let's say the problem is an EVAP code for a small leak. It won't cause any driving problems but it turns the light on. It could be as simple as a bad gas cap or a sticking vent solenoid. Both are not real expensive to repair. However as you are driving another code trips and calls for the light to turn on. With the light already on you cannot tell there is an issue until it is too late.
Sorry to sound preachy but I cannot stand shops that won't actually diagnose an issue on a vehicle and give the owner the truth.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I had it checked once before and they said it was the fuel rail system, but I have no fuel issues. The van runs better at 221,000 miles then my friends newer Chevrolet van with only 60,000 on it.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,322 POSTS
Have it scanned and get the actual code(s) that will give you a place to start. Many of the chain stores will scan them for free. Just post the codes, Ignore what they tell you to buy as repair parts, LOL. We can go from there. I've driven a lot of vehicles where the light is on but nothing seems wrong. Thing is, the light rarely comes on for nothing. In your case it sounds like it could be a simple wiring connection. The codes should help.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Po193 fuel rail pressure sensor high input.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Went to AutoZone. But this is what I said. They diagnose this for me years ago but I've got lucky because every time I've gone through the emissions station my lights have gone off unbelievably. But I'm not trusting that they will do the same this time.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,322 POSTS
Okay, to narrow it down E150, 250 or? 4.6, 5.4 or? That sensor isn't hard to test and depending on which way it is reading it could help the fuel mileage. If it's the one on the rail it's real easy to change as well, a vacuum line, wire connector and 2 bolts.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
E250 5.4.
They told me before it is the fuel rail.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHM777
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 178,000 MILES
The check engine light is on. We've had two shops put their scanner on the truck's plug-in receptacle under the dash, and both said they got no reading at all. Both shops said this is because the fuse for the plug-in receptacle is bad. I cannot figure out what fuse it would be because the owner's manual fuse charts do not say what fuse is for this item. We could unplug and check every single fuse under the dash and under the hood (there are a lot!) But maybe you can help before we do that. Thank you.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)

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