Low power and flickering check engine light

When he says it flickers does that mean it flashes or flickers like a flash light that has a low battery?

The most likely cause of this not wanting to go would be an engine issue like a misfire. Clearly we would need more info but no matter what I would expect a lower price due to this issue. Also, I would not buy it unless you did a compression check on it just to make sure this is not a severe engine issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Let me know what other questions you have. Thanks

Okay. That helps. Then there will be codes to go along with it. I would ask he pull the codes and if he thinks it is an injector we would want to make sure it gets replaced on that cylinder (assuming it is a misfire code).

If he wants to confirm this, swap that injector to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. Let me know what you find but a flashing check engine is a sign of damage being done to the engine or exhaust from excessive fuel.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Sorry for the delay. Are you looking for information on the fuel injector replacement? If so I attached that. If something else let me know what that is. Thanks

The engine will not come out of time and if you tape down the rotor so it doesn't move then you can put it back in where it came out. You just want to mark on the engine where the rotor is pointing. However, if it were me I would just put the engine to TDC for number 1 and then mark the position of the rotor on the distributor for when you pull it out you know where it is pointing for number 1.

Does that make sense?

Are you talking about the tester that turns on the injector and then you monitor the drop in pressure of the fuel system?

If so, there is no specification for this but as you pulse the injector, you should see the pressure drop around 5 PSI if you pulse it for a second or two. The faulty injectors that you will find is after testing all of them when one or multiples don't drop any pressure (they are not opening) or it drops considerably more then the others as this indicates it is hanging open.

You are welcome. Keep us posted on what you find. Thanks

This could explain the low power as well. However, post a recording of the knock because this may not be a bearing noise. Does it get faster when you accelerate?

You can drop the oil pan and look at the bearings but if you have metal through the engine then you are going to need to go through the whole engine because that metal most likely damaged a lot of bearing and the only way to know is to rebuild it.

I just would not want to see you go through all that trouble just to put it back together and it still make noise.

I would at least start with dropping the pan and seeing how much oil and what the crank bearings look like.

Post some pictures of the bearings if you can. Thanks

I attached the process for the oil pan. The instructions on these older vehicles are not very detailed but more of a list. Also the torque specs for the crank bearings.

Let me know what you find. Thanks

I would look for signs of sludge in the top end as well. Clearly we need to see if there is metal but if there is sludge under the valve cover then I would not waste the time in just replacing bearings. It needs an overhaul at that point. You may get away with it for a short time but if that is the case it will wipe the new bearings as well.

It is a risk that I would not take because once the damage is done you have no idea how extensive it is.

That is not saying you will not get lucky and fix the only effected bearings and be just fine.

I would think you are pushing it but the question is to you, do you feel lucky?

Keep us posted on what you decide and how it turns out. I am curious and pulling for you because I think you are going to give it a shot.