My engine is stalling at idle can you help me please?

Tiny
DAWSON CURL
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 FORD F-150
  • 3.7L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 179,000 MILES
Truck was running perfectly on Friday, went to Menards and picked up 18 bags of gravel and went to Meijer to get gas. After leaving I noticed that when I would press on the gas it would stutter, as well as coming to a stop light/sign. I cleaned throttle body, changed my MAF sensor, and cleaned fuel injectors. Haven’t checked for a vacuum leak yet but that’s next. Anything else i’m missing?
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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 9:02 PM

61 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

There are a few things that can cause what you described. First, I think it's a good idea to check for engine vacuum leaks. Here is a link to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Next, low fuel pressure can be a concern as well as things such as a partially plugged catalytic converter.

Has the check engine light turned on and stayed on with the engine running? If it has, before doing anything more, scan the CAN bus system on the vehicle. CAN stands for computer area network. Basically, all of the modules / computers in the vehicle are tied together via this network. This is the way of the future.

Here is a video that shows how it's done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Let me know. Also, let me know if other than the bogging and stalling at a stop, there are additional symptoms. For example, you smell fuel, black smoke from the exhaust, it's running hotter than normal. Anything you can think of that will help. Also, if you have a live data scan tool, hook it up and let me know the short term fuel trims.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe
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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 9:19 PM
Tiny
DAWSON CURL
  • MEMBER
Check engine light has been on for for a few months now, it s my oxygen sensors bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1, heat malfunction. It s never ran any differently with the light being on. I installed an AFE stage 2 cold air intake on it about 2 months ago. I personally don t have any scanners but I can probably get one tomorrow and try it out. Don t smell any fuel, little bit of black residue on my tailpipe lately. I replaced the upper intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket today as well.
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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
DL AUTOSHOP
  • MEMBER
Hello, I'm Danny.

Just to add my 2 cents. I would suggest performing a fuel pressure test.You might have a weak or failing pump not providing enough pressure under load or acceleration.If you don't have access to a fuel pressure tester most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

The correct fuel pressure specification for you truck is 51-62 PSI. Hope the helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 4:37 PM
Tiny
JOEY0294
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 142,667 MILES
Okay. So I just bought this truck with a 5.4l triton. It ran amazing when I bought it but I haven't made a payment yet and already have had some issues with it. Randomly when I put it into drive (only drive does this) it will bog down and want to stall out (let me add it has stalled out doing this multiple times now) it starts up beautifully. It idles smooth but for some reason it wants to bog down sometimes. When I say sometimes I mean I can put it into park then into drive and it be fine three times in a row but then on the fourth it'll want to stall out. Some times if I were to put it into second my rpm's fluctuate lightly. It sometimes wants to bog down when I turn the steering wheel and am going slow and sometimes does a ruff bog when I come to a stop. I replaced both VCT solenoids. I tried a new throttle body in case it was my TPS. I added fuel cleaner to the tank of gas I have now.I cleaned my mas. I hear a clicking noise from what I think to be my fuel injectors maybe. I noticed I really only have this issue when I have a cold engine like it sat all night or sat all day while I'm at work. From time to time my first three gears that shift when I drive have a bit of a juke to them like a struggle. No check engine lights no stored codes. I have a obd2 checker (jethax) any ideas? I would like to add other than this the truck runs like a Cadillac. Which is what's so frustrating. Once she's warm or I cycle from drive to park a couple times and maybe not gun it but speed through that random ruff shift from a dead stop it's like a cloud.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • EXPERT
One thing I can say to check is the evaporative system purge valve, make sure it's not stuck open. These are notorious for sticking and I have several customers that keep an extra one in their glove box. Just disconnect the electrical connector and make sure that vacuum is available at only one of the ports. If vacuum is available on the fuel tank side, you have a stuck valve. This is just one possibility amongst many, but there was also a PCM reprogram for similar issues but there is no guarantee that it will completely resolve your issues.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOEY0294
  • MEMBER
Is the PCM a dealer only part? Was there a recall for it or was it just an adjustment made through programming?
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
There are updates they need to be done which can solve your issue. But I noticed you cleaned the MAF which only works sometimes. I would try a new MAF OEM. Here is a guide to help walk you through and diagrams below to show you on your truck:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-mass-air-flow-sensor-maf

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • EXPERT
Yes, there is an update for the PCM which can be done at a dealer or a subscribing independent shop, and as Ken noted, make sure the maf sensor is clean as well.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES WOODARD
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD F-150
  • 4.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 136,000 MILES
While driving I pushed clutch in to downshift and stop. Started right up but did it again every time I stopped accelerating. No check engine light or other lights on dash. Asked a few mechanics they said it could be an idle air control sensor. My vehicle does not have on on throttle body, only throttle position sensor. Any help would be great.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I would think you would have a diagnostic trouble code if the actuator was causing the problem. Tell me, have you checked for engine vacuum leaks? That is where I would start. Here is a link that shows how it's done. Do this and let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know. Also, let me know if you have a live data scanner.

Joe
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES WOODARD
  • MEMBER
I checked all vacuum lines using this method. Does not appear to be any leaks. No I don't have a live data scanner. Any other ideas.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Without a scan tool, I can't be 100% sure. However, I have a feeling it deals with the throttle control actuator. Although this vehicle doesn't have a separate IAC valve, it has one as part of the throttle control actuator. There is also a throttle control module that can be causing issues. However, I don't know which way to point you without a code. I guess it would be wise to check all connectors on the throttle body to make sure they are tight, not corroded, and none of the wires in the connector are pushed in and not making a good connection. Also, confirm there is no damage to the wiring.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES WOODARD
  • MEMBER
The throttle body has only one connection to the throttle position sensor. I have replaced that and totally cleaned throttle body. Everything is working fine now. Also, idle is more stable than it was before this issue. Not sure if this was the right fix but it worked, for now. Thank you for your input. I truly appreciated it.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
You are very welcome and I'm glad that took care of the problem. If you have questions or need anything in the future, let us know.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TEDM.
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 320,000 MILES
Truck shuts off when put in reverse or drive. Will idle fine in park.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

When you place it in gear, does the vehicle jump forward or backwards? Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running?

If you haven't, I would suggest scanning the can-bus system. CAN stands for controller area network. This ties all the computers and modules together. It should pick up on a problem if it is related to any of the systems.

Here is a video that shows how it's done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

If it's possible, record what is happening and upload it for me to see. Also, let me know as much as you can. For example, what is the engine idle speed before you place it in gear? Have you checked for anything such as engine vacuum leaks?

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CLAY PULSIPHER
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,000 MILES
My engine (5.4l Triton) doesn t want to run when in drive or reverse when it is warmed up. I just changed the oil in it and an hour after that when I was driving, it kept trying to shut off. When I put it back in park and rev it, it goes back to a perfect idle. But when I put it back in drive it goes to this terrible rough idle then shuts off.
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • EXPERT
If all this happened after an oil change then we need to check the oil level and what type of oil you used.

You have a variable valve timing system. So this means there is an actuator that uses oil pressure to alter the cam timing to match driving conditions. They return to what is called lock pin when in park so that would make sense why it runs fine in park.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-camshaft-variable-valve-timing-works

I attached info below as well for this system. Please let us know what oil you used and we can go from there. Thanks
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CLAY PULSIPHER
  • MEMBER
I used 5w-20 motor oil which is what it calls for. And I put in 7 quarts which is also what it calls for. Is that correct?
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • EXPERT
That is exactly correct. So then I can only think this is a coincidence.

So when this cuts off we need to monitor the fuel pressure when it does it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let's start with this and go from there. This is the most likely cause but if that checks out then we need to suspect the torque converter may be locked up.

Does it stall every time you put it in gear or can you keep it running it just runs poorly?
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)

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