Bogging, stalling at idle?

Tiny
DAWSON CURL
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 FORD F-150
  • 3.7L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 179,000 MILES
Truck was running perfectly on Friday, went to Menards and picked up 18 bags of gravel and went to Meijer to get gas. After leaving I noticed that when I would press on the gas it would stutter, as well as coming to a stop light/sign. I cleaned throttle body, changed my MAF sensor, and cleaned fuel injectors. Haven’t checked for a vacuum leak yet but that’s next. Anything else i’m missing?
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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 9:02 PM

51 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

There are a few things that can cause what you described. First, I think it's a good idea to check for engine vacuum leaks. Here is a link to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Next, low fuel pressure can be a concern as well as things such as a partially plugged catalytic converter.

Has the check engine light turned on and stayed on with the engine running? If it has, before doing anything more, scan the CAN bus system on the vehicle. CAN stands for computer area network. Basically, all of the modules / computers in the vehicle are tied together via this network. This is the way of the future.

Here is a video that shows how it's done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Let me know. Also, let me know if other than the bogging and stalling at a stop, there are additional symptoms. For example, you smell fuel, black smoke from the exhaust, it's running hotter than normal. Anything you can think of that will help. Also, if you have a live data scan tool, hook it up and let me know the short term fuel trims.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe
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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 9:19 PM
Tiny
DAWSON CURL
  • MEMBER
Check engine light has been on for for a few months now, it s my oxygen sensors bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1, heat malfunction. It s never ran any differently with the light being on. I installed an AFE stage 2 cold air intake on it about 2 months ago. I personally don t have any scanners but I can probably get one tomorrow and try it out. Don t smell any fuel, little bit of black residue on my tailpipe lately. I replaced the upper intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket today as well.
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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Hello, I'm Danny.

Just to add my 2 cents. I would suggest performing a fuel pressure test.You might have a weak or failing pump not providing enough pressure under load or acceleration.If you don't have access to a fuel pressure tester most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

The correct fuel pressure specification for you truck is 51-62 PSI. Hope the helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 4:37 PM
Tiny
ALSTONE
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 180,000 MILES
Only with a full tank of gas truck runs rough and stalls at idle after driving if I start and let idle it is fine. No engine lights. Did get a check fuel cap. But that was not the case when the problem started. I drove it for three weeks only filling it half full and it drove fine. Then I filled it up and the same problem.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Have it scanned for codes see it there is a fuel pressure sensor issue or if there is an EVAP issue. It may be EVAP canister is full of gas and not getting good vacuum.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALSTONE
  • MEMBER
I just changed out the EVAP canister thinking that was it. At the ford dealership they checked for codes and nothing came up. They could not duplicate the stall since at that time my gas tank was low enough and I did not realize it was connected to a full tank.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Just for the heck of it try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner see if that takes care of it. You might see if any vacuum lines are disconnected or kinked as well especially ones leading to EVAP.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN KLEBER
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 171,000 MILES
Started my truck this morning to let it warm up. Ran fine for about 10 minutes was about to leave and it shit off. Went out to truck and tried to start, nothing. Used a jumper pack, nothing. Jumped it off another vehicle and it started. It shut off as soon as I disconnected the cables. I reattached the cables and let it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran. Disconnected the cables and it stayed running, nothing on the dash works, no radio, no heat. I was going to limp it to work and as soon as I touched the brake pedal it shut off. I pulled the battery and slow charged it. Started the truck, still no gauges work and truck shut off after 3 minutes. I think my alternator my have gone but I'm confused by the lack of gauges.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good morning,

Can you give me the voltage of the battery with the engine off and running? It sounds like a low voltage issue but needs to be sure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Yes, you may need an alternator and possibly a battery as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

You can go to the relay and jump terminals 30 and 87 and see if the starter cranks the engine.

Roy

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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN KLEBER
  • MEMBER
With engine off battery voltage is 12.47 volts.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN KLEBER
  • MEMBER
Wont stay running long enough to get voltage tester on it. As soon as I disconnect cables it shuts off.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Check the battery cables and make sure they are clean and tight. Remove them and clean them inside and out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Roy
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN KLEBER
  • MEMBER
I checked all the cables cleaned them thoroughly and no change.I pulled the battery and put it on the bench on slow charge. Checked with multimeter. Its still at 12.47volts. Truck will start but not stay running and while it's running nothing works on dash or inside truck. Checked all fuses with a meter and all are fine. Like I stated earlier I'm fairly certain my alternator went out and I'm going to replace that tonight but cant understand or figure out why nothing works all of a sudden in cab of truck. Also just in the past two days when accelerating around 2750rpm every once and a while truck would backfire or misfire.I checked and replaced all plugs and coil packs and it continues. Friend thought it might be mass air sensor. Anyway to know for sure?
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
When it runs, what is the voltage at the battery?

When you hooked up the battery cables, were there any sparks from the cables? Did you remove the negative first and install the negative last? The reason I ask is voltage surge. If you take the positive off first on install last it could produce a voltage surge that could damage components.

Roy
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN KLEBER
  • MEMBER
It will only stay running if I leave the battery charger on it or jumper cables, as soon as they are disconnected the truck shuts off. So if I try and get a voltage reading it's getting the voltage from the other car or battery charger. I'm bringing the battery down to the shop to have it load tested today. When connecting or disconnecting the battery I've done the positive terminal first and negative second. Sparks have happened but nothing out of the ordinary.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
It really sounds like a bad battery if you have to jump it.

I know it reads 12.3 but when you turn the key to on and start, what does the voltage read?

Roy
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN KLEBER
  • MEMBER
So I took the battery out and down to a different auto parts store and had them test it again. The first time I took it to AutoZone and the load tested it and said it was fine. This time I took it to a local small town store and they load tested right in front of me, the guy says at least 2 cells are bad. Picking up a new battery later after work. Will let you know how it goes.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
That sounds like the best thing.

I bet it takes care of the issues.

Roy
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN KLEBER
  • MEMBER
Changed out the battery, started truck, checked voltage at battery with truck running and it was 12.0v.. Bad alternator. Replaced that and the truck runs great now. Thank you
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good deal.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM (Merged)

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