Bad crankshaft sensor symptoms, car will not stay running

Tiny
BKM97423
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 ACURA VIGOR
  • 2.5L
  • 5 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
I bought my this vehicle over a month ago and it's still in the repair shop my mechanic is stumped and he cannot figure out what is wrong with it. It will not give him any codes on the diagnostic; is he doing something wrong? All of the research that I've done online points to a possible faulty crankshaft sensor. Is it hard to remove and replace that in my car? I have a Chilton's manual so I'm hoping that will give me some help. My car starts runs for about 5 minutes and then it shuts off and then it will only crank and won't start unless I let it sit for about 1 hour. Then it starts right up again but again it only runs for a few minutes and then shuts off.
Thursday, May 7th, 2020 AT 1:27 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
You are correct that this issue is normally caused by a crank sensor. However, that is when the sensor is a Hall Effect type sensor. Your sensor is what is called a reluctor type sensor. They are not a susceptible to heat as Hall Effect type sensors.

What I would suggest is when the engine cuts off, let's pull a spark plug, connect it back to the wire and hold it against the block then crank the engine to see if there is spark to the plugs. If there is no spark then we can go down this path. If there is spark then it is not the crank sensor.

At that point, you need to spray some starter fluid in the intake to see if it fires. That would point to a fuel issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Let me know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks
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Thursday, May 7th, 2020 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
BKM97423
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Tested spark. There is spark. Tested the starting fluid right after I bought the car. Starting fluid didn't work. I read something on line about how to do a diagnostic on an Acura Vigor and it said it is not just a matter of plugging in the diagnostic tool and codes coming up in the form of a flashing red light in the dash. It said there is a procedure that you have to follow instructions to get a proper code reading. Do you know anything about that? Thanks for your help.
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 6:03 PM
Tiny
BKM97423
  • MEMBER
  • 49 POSTS
Sorry, one more thing. I spoke with someone that told me a common problem with Vigor's is the wiring harness from the ignition switch to the engine. They told me it is something you have to get from the dealership and it is approximately $100.00. The ignition switch/key and all was replaced on my car. Could this possibly be a problem? The new key is not chipped.
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
You can pull the codes without a scan tool by jumping the connector that should be on the passenger side next to the center console. Possibly behind the carpet.

Here is a guide on the codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/honda-car-1990-1995-obd1-code-retrieval-procedure-and-definition-table

As for the key, I am not sure your key has a chip in it. I could be wrong on this but even Acura didn't start using it until the early 2000's. Send me a picture of your key and we can go from there. Has this key ever started the engine?
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Sunday, May 24th, 2020 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
BKM97423
  • MEMBER
  • 49 POSTS
I called an Acura Service Dept and they said 1992 Vigor had no key fob but they did have a chipped key and yes the after market key has and does start the car. The prior owner had the ignition replaced because it went bad and had it replaced with the after market ignition. The ignition key I have has no chip. Remember I said the car starts but only runs for 5 minutes or less and then wont start again for 30-60 minutes, I was told it could be the wiring harness ghat goes from the ignition switch into the engine. I don't know if that makes sense to you. I am just letting you know what another person said was wrong when they had similar symptoms.
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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay, something is not adding up. If we have spark when this is not starting and starter fluid doesn't fire the engine then the only thing left is compression. I highly doubt you are loosing compression when it gets hot but we need to check it when the engine is not starting. So let it get hot and stall then check compression.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

You need three things to start the engine. Spark, fuel, and compression. From what I am reading compression is the only thing we don't know. If this checks out then we need to revisit the spark and fuel.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:00 PM

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