All crank, no start, got fuel, no spark

KINGNQUEEN0526

MEMBER
2003 GMC SIERRA
6.0L
V8
4WD
AUTOMATIC
145,000 MILES

I have the truck listed above 2500hd. Been dealing with a p0300 random misfire for a while now. Did plugs and wires. I was still getting the code after a few weeks of it running strong. But just a few days ago I started the truck so that I could work on the instrument cluster and have easier in and out of the vehicle access. Anyway, the reason for me working on diagnosing the instrument cluster was because a few days prior everything on the cluster had stopped working other than the check engine light turn signals. All of the gauges and the rest of the warning lights had stopped working. So I was going through and diagnosing that issue. So after doing all of the testing of wires and fuses it seems as if the cluster itself has went bad. I then proceeded to put the instrument panel back together and during this process I hooked up a code reader which is the (Creader launch). When hooking it up to my truck I received 2 codes from it. 1 was the famous p0300 and the other was the p0332 rear knock sensor. After that I tried to start it and all that did was lead me to trying to do some more diagnosing as to why it wouldn't start. So I have fuel delivery and pressure a good battery and a lot of cranking but no spark from all 8 cylinders. I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor because that's what everything was pointing to as to going bad. In between time of doing this I had the battery out of the vehicle for charging purposes. So the codes are now gone. Now that I have done all of this my truck still won't start. All it wants to do is crank over but not start. I was unable to do any further diagnosing as to maybe why this is happening happening now. Also I tried to scan it again with the same tool and there were no codes because I had unhooked the battery for charging purposes. Now I'm pretty baffled about this happening the way it's happening so any and all thoughts on as to what to look at next would be highly and greatly appreciated. Thank you, Big Blue.

7 Replies

ASEMASTER6371

MECHANIC
52,797 POSTS

Good morning,

What is the fuel pressure? A weak fuel pump is the most common cause of a 300 code.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

FUEL PRESSURE
1. Command the fuel pump ON with a scan tool.
2. Observe the fuel pressure gauge with the fuel pump commanded ON.

VIN Z .................... 335-375 (48-54 psi)

Except VIN Z .................... 385-425 kPa (55-62 psi)

When you crank the engine, does the tach read RPM on the dash? That will tell if the crank sensor is sending a signal to the ECM.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

I would also check the compression to be sure the timing chain is good.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the intake manifold.
2. Gently pry up the rubber covers.
3. Disconnect the knock sensor electrical connectors.

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4. Remove the knock sensors.

Intake Manifold Replacement

Removal Procedure

Important:The intake manifold, throttle body, fuel rail, and injectors may be removed as an assembly. If not servicing the individual components, remove the manifold as a complete assembly.

1. Remove the throttle body.
2. Remove the fuel injectors.

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3. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1)
Knock sensor (2)

4. Remove the knock sensor harness electrical connector from the intake manifold.
5. Set the electrical harness aside

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6. If equipped with vacuum assisted brakes, remove the vacuum brake booster hose from the rear of the intake manifold.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

7. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose with valve.

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8. Remove the MAP sensor (1) from the intake manifold.

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9. Remove the evaporative emission (EVAP) purge solenoid vent tube by performing the following:
9.1. Remove the EVAP tube end from the solenoid (1).
9.2. Remove the EVAP tube end from the vapor pipe (2).

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10. Remove the EVAP purge solenoid bolt (2), solenoid (3), and isolator (1) from the intake manifold.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

11. Loosen the intake manifold bolts.
12. Remove the intake manifold.

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13. Remove the intake manifold gaskets (1) from the intake manifold.
14. Discard the old intake manifold gaskets.
15. If required, clean and inspect the intake manifold.

Images (Click to make bigger)

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Sunday, January 3rd, 2021 AT 3:10 AM

KINGNQUEEN0526

MEMBER
18 POSTS

Hello. Thank you for your response and information. I haven't actually done a fuel pressure check. I just know that I'm definitely getting fuel. I pushed on the Schrader valve and had it squirt out from the fuel rail. I didn't think that I would have to do a pressure check because I just installed this fuel pump within the past 6 months. Also I haven't done a compression check on it either because I'm not getting spark from any of the coils or plugs. As for as the tachometer; well, I'm not sure because the whole instrument cluster other than the check engine light and turn signals stopped working. So I have no gear selector indicator no mileage or anything to that nature.
Are you implying that it might be the knock sensor? I ask because you basically steered me away from the crank sensor but sent me a topic on remove and replace of the knock sensor.
I'm at a pretty big part of confusion with the way everything has happened. It started and ran fine and then as it sat there for almost 3 hours it lost all spark and will only crank over.

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 3:02 AM

ASEMASTER6371

MECHANIC
52,797 POSTS

Yes, I am heading to the knock sensors and the harness which is a common failure.

As far as the fuel pressure, you need to test it. You could have replaced it last week and still need to be tested as low pressure will cause the 300.

What was the compression?

Roy

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 3:12 AM

KINGNQUEEN0526

MEMBER
18 POSTS

Hello again Roy, Thank you again for the advice that you are giving me.

As for the knock sensors and harness, would them going bad make a no spark? Places that have tried to research all said that they would not make for a no spark. Also I have heard and read that the vehicle will start and run even if they do go bad! I'm inquisitive about this because I would hate to do the unnecessary work of taking apart basically the top part of the motor. Especially when the financial situation is kind of limited.
I have not checked the fuel pressure or done a compression check on the vehicle yet because I do not have either one of those kits as of right now. Also with having a no spark coming from the coils I figured that it wouldn't be a compression issue but rather an ignition or electrical issue that has something to do with the ignition which is why my first thing was the crank sensor plus because of the research was all pointing in that direction. I can get them from either rent a tool at autozone or advanced or I could get them at the local Harbor Freight. I was just hoping to be able to get the vehicle fixed and running before I had to try to invest more money in tools. I know that throwing parts at it is not the right answer nor the right way to do this and that proper diagnosing would be best but when you're limited on supplies and finances that's when it gets a little rough.
Again, thank you for the information and advice and any more that you may have for me.
Bruce

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM

ASEMASTER6371