1995 Acura Integra does not runs in gears

Tiny
VILOME
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 ACURA INTEGRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,300 MILES
Honda Integra 1995 LS Aut. No vtec
I had a leaking water pump, so I changed the water pump and the timing belt myself. Now there is a problem. The car timing is perfect I have check it more than twice, the car starts every time, sounds good, better idle than before not knocking, no ecm light (never had). It is fine in P and N but when I shift it to gears R, D, 1, 2 it just don't accelarate (rpm), just barely move 1-2 mph. Another fact is that if I turn on the a/c it also does not want to accelerate in P o N also or it accelerates or increases slowly with the throttle full down.

Things tested ok. Coil, icm, ckp/tdc/cyp sensors, iatemp, ectemp sensors. New sparks, timing belt and water pump. Waiting for the compression tester just in case.
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have the same problem?
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No
Saturday, March 27th, 2010 AT 12:26 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi vilome,

Do you mean the ignition timing or timing belt markings are perfect?

Did you check the TPS sensor wires?
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Saturday, March 27th, 2010 AT 3:40 PM
Tiny
VILOME
  • MEMBER
Yes timing is ok or perfect. No, I have not check the tps but it accelarates almost fine (a little bit slow) if it is in P or N up to the white limit 7,000 rpm; it could also go up more to the red but I do not wanted it to pass over the red mark. And not I have not test the TPS yet with the voltimeter but as you can see it can accelerate almost fine in P or N.
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Saturday, March 27th, 2010 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Sorry, I am not sure what you mean.

Is the ignition timing correct?

Is the timing belt camshafts markings and the crank sprocket timed correctly?
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Saturday, March 27th, 2010 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
VILOME
  • MEMBER
Yes, timing is correct I am 90% sure.
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Saturday, March 27th, 2010 AT 7:54 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
You are not 100 %, so there is still a possibility of it being out.

Did you use a timing light to check the ignition timing? Being a twin cam engine, even if the ignition timing is correct, that would mean the front cam is correct, there is a tendency fot the rear cam to be out of time.

You are experiencing excessive power loss and even if the timing sprocket is out by a tooth, it should not be the case. You would still be able to drive the vehcile with some power loss.

However turning the AC on causes such drastic drop in power could mean the timing belt is off by a tooth for each cam.
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Sunday, March 28th, 2010 AT 1:21 AM
Tiny
VILOME
  • MEMBER
I did the compression test and it came to an average of 170 psi range is (135-195).
Installed another ECU and no change, same problem and no codes.
I have tested most of the components like the engine coolant sensor (ecs), intake air temperature sensor (iat), tps, map, ckp/tdc/cyp sensors.
I have not tested the fuel filter. But it seems like it need more air not more fuel. I really have come to an end.
Can somebody help me!
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Friday, April 9th, 2010 AT 12:29 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Did you check the ignition timing?
Did you recheck the timing belt synchronisation?
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Friday, April 9th, 2010 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
VILOME
  • MEMBER
New fuel filter and no change, same problem but anyway it needed the fuel filter, it have not been changed in years (many)!
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Friday, April 9th, 2010 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
VILOME
  • MEMBER
Yes.
Yes.
But without the timing light. That's tomorrow or next week.
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Friday, April 9th, 2010 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Without the timing light, how did you check the ignition timing?
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Saturday, April 10th, 2010 AT 7:48 AM
Tiny
VILOME
  • MEMBER
It is 16 degrees btdc. The integra have the marks on the crankcase or wheel. Marks of tdc and also of 16 btdc. So I check out the distributor cap for the number one spark. Then, I rotate the distributor and try to put it to spark where the mark on the crankcase or wheel is at. It is not precise but I have play with it a lot. Nevertheless, I must verify that with the timing light.
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Saturday, April 10th, 2010 AT 10:42 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Ok, that works for getting the ignitionj timing nearby.

At this juncture, is the distributor holding bolts seated in the slots extremely to one side or is it somewhere in between?
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Saturday, April 10th, 2010 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
MTPTL77
  • MEMBER
I was driving my car today and put my foot where the clutch should be and hit nothing but air. I then pulled over to look under the dash and I found my pedal stuck up against the back. I pulled it out, now slightly worried about it. Then it happened again about an hour later. I can't remember exactly what I was doing when the problems happened. I started pumping the clutch at intersections to see if it would stick, nothing. I played with it a bit more when I got home and still everything seemed fine. Any ideas to what my problem could be would be greatly appreciated.
===========
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Friday, May 7th, 2010 AT 11:47 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Get the clutch hydraulics checked. Seems there is some leaks in the system.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2010 AT 9:02 AM
Tiny
VILOME
  • MEMBER
Somewhere in between from the midde to one side.

First Problem - Car did not run more than 2 mph after replacing a leaking water pump and timing belt.
Ok, I finally used the timing light. That was one of the problems, it was out of time. I went back and redo the timing belt work several times 2-3 times more until I got it right in conjunction with the distributor-timing light. The first time I was doing the timing belt I used the TDC mark instead of the -16 degrees mark, did not really know what I was doing the first time. So the spark was firing at the end of the compression stroke instead of a bit before. Oh boy it was a pain doing the work several times during several days until I got it right (I am not a mechanic). By the second time the car was runing but I did the timing work several times because I was adjusting better (a tooth more or less) the timing belt with the two camshaft. Finally, I found a way to hold by myself one camshaft (mark straight up) with a screwdriver against a half unscrew from the camshaft rod holders.
KHLow2008 you always recalled me if the car was out of time and if I used the timing light and you were right. Listen people, here you got one of the best mechanics. Thanks for all your help KHLow2008.

Second Problem - Car won't start, just 2 or 3 times more waiting a day or days between starts, I even had the car towed. Then it won't starts anymore. No ecu light code.
I try several things.
1) Measured the coil ohms it was good (I kept a replacement since once I had to changed 2 in less than 2 years).
2) New sparks - same problem
3) Measured several sensors and relay - same problem
4) New fuel filter - same problem (anyway the car needed it).
5) Local mechanic told me it was the ignition module, bought new one - same problem.
6) Another ECU - same problem.
7) New distributor - the way I found out what was the cause. Sellling it now on fleabay.
Finally, it was just the distributor rotor.
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Thursday, May 20th, 2010 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Thanks for the compliments and glad to know you have finally fixed the problem.

Have a great day.
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Friday, May 21st, 2010 AT 6:28 AM

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