Sorry about that, I see it is very blurry. Here's a better one. So you should be able to do this pretty quick. the ABS connector is going to have a plastic cover on it they have to remove so you can access the pins in the back, reconnect the abs connector and start the van. Most technicians use T-pins to back probe connectors, slide the t-pin down the wire until it stops. Take your readings from the battery negative to the t-pins. So pins 1 tan/red & 32 dark green/red should be battery power all the time, so 12volts. Pins 16&47 both black wires are grounds, they should read very close to zero, no more than 0.050volts. So those are powers and grounds. Now there are 4 communications wires. Test these from battery negative as well. The first 2 are going to the PCM(power train module) engine computer and network. pin 12 white/lt blue is CANbus High, this is only going to give you an average reading with a multimeter. It should be between 2.5 and 3.5 volts. Pin 13 white/brown is CANbus low and should read 1.5&2.5 volts. If either of these is not reading correctly, for example 0 volts or 12 volts. Then there's a communication problem between the abs module and the main communications network and will need to be investigated further. Pins 18 white/dark blue & 19 white/yellow are CANbus high and low to the Dynamics Sensor/ Yaw rate sensor and network. They should read the same as the other 2 CAN bus wires. You will probably see the same readings if there's a communications problem. Now you may see everything looking ok while the problem isn't present. ABS modules seem to go bad first because of where the module is located in the engine compartment. Your main concern will be the wires I've explained here. That code is for a module failure, not necessarily a sensor going to the abs. So do those checks and if everything looks okay, change out the abs module. Further testing will require an oscilloscope to actually see the communication network and determine if it's a different module causing issues. Just be careful while inserting the t-pins, don't force them into the back of the connector. Let us know if you're missing any of the powers, grounds or communications signals. Here are a couple of guides for basic testing. You're going to have to clear any codes after replacing the abs module. Now depending if you're replacing just the module or the hydraulic portion as well, a scan tool is needed to bleed the hydraulic portion of the module. This is because the ports in the hydraulic part will need to be opened using a scantool. If you don't have access to a scantool like this, a shop with the proper equipment will have to do the hydraulic brake bleeding. Bleeding the braking system is not something to get wrong. You will not have any brakes. So please take the proper precautions.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-abs-controller
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 6:34 AM
