The engine is hard to start can you help me?

Tiny
RACEFAN966
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OK you really need to check the cap and rotor for corrosion and not it is not HEI that was back a few years it is a electronic however. Also if you would check the fuel pressure need to know what it is. Let me know what you find.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SICKCHEVY98
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Ok got the fuel pressures they are
60psi to prime and at start stays about
55 psi while idleing and fluctuates between 55 and 60 for everything else ( was unable to check pressure while driveing but did test with it in gear and brake on up too 1500rpm maxed)

At this point I had not pulled off EDI truck still working just harder to start and still falters on acceleration but working

I tried towing some vehicles with it with 97 cutlass had no other problems but with 92 s10 blazer about 20 miles out it started missing first just a pop maybe about twice a minute but eventually started sounding like popcorn I figured engine had pretty much had it so squeezed it as far as I could go as I got to a stop sign and let off accelerator the popping went away for the most part I still didnt have any power tho but it did make it back home

I pulled off EDI sure enough quite a bit of corrosion I changed the rotor and cleaned up the cap and changed the air filter so far still having the same problems allthough it is back to usual problems ( I can get it to miss sometimes if I put it in first and try to take off from there FYI first gear pedal to floor I can only do about 25mph at about 2700 rpm

In park I can hit 5000 rpm or higher with intermittant stumble about 4000 rpm
In neutral I can only get to about 3000 rpm

I should be changing plugs and wires sometime this week

also truck dies as soon as I pull the air cleaner off
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
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OK the dieing when you remove air filter is ok shouldn't run without one anyway. I would like you to clean the mass air flow unit with mass air flow cleaner nothing else. Also check that cap and rotor if you haven't already. Once you do that and the wire let me know how it runs. If there is still a problem then you will need a digital multi meter so we can check the Mass Air Flow sensor.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SICKCHEVY98
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I went ahead and changed the fuel filter first time ive ever seen black gas that ended up helping alot

also got wires and plugs changed ( changed rotor and checked cap prior to last post)

allthough it is still slightly hard to start a little slugish and lacking some torque It does now go above 3000 rpm for the most part the engine sounds healthy have heard or felt anymore misses from it

right now its acting like it is low on transmission fluid allthough it is not but it is definatly due for fluid flush and filter change in tranny, its getting pretty dark

ill get some mass air sensor cleaner tomarrow starting to feel like an idiot as most of this is just lack of routine maintenance
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SICKCHEVY98
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Sorry have NOT heard anymore misses from it
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
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Ok after you clean the mass air flow unit let me know how it runs and we will go from there. Don't feel bad we all get busy and forget the basic maintenance stuff.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SICKCHEVY98
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Well Ive cleaned the mass air flow havent drove much to say if it did any difference

however all previous symptoms are back plus more

anyway the truck idles fine
with slow application of acceleration rpm increases with hesitation or stumble every now and then

with quick acceleration massive hesitation plus backfire almost continueously (hasnt blown air cleaner off but I can see the hose stretch between maf sensor and throttle body)

after release of accelerator rpm increases back to about 900 rpm and it idles smoothly

(it was idleing at about 600 before plug and wire change)

now for the new I drove up to school about 20 minute drive went back to truck after getting directions to class the truck would not start back up (nowadays normal to fire up just at second crank) after about 5 attempts the battery was too discharged to turn engine I ended up getting a jump but still had to spray carb cleaner in to get it running in cab voltmeter showed 14 volts

the backfires started on my way home the next morning battery could only turn engine 2 start attempts

now I mentioned this because this has kinda happened before when I was trying to pull that blazer 2 weeks ago I pulled over because I had to restrap the tires on blazer I shut the truck down out of habit but could not start it again until I got a jump (engine would still turn but very slow when jump vehicle arrived) then after about 20 minutes of driving the backfires started

(I know I said misses sorry that was just wishful thinking and denial)
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SICKCHEVY98
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Well I rechecked fuel pressure before the new problem was still at 60 psi to prime but would drop to 50 while running with slow acceleration pressure continued dropping got to about 35 psi at about 5000 rpm no longer backfires with quick acceleration just dies

now new problem on way home from work I could not touch accelerator without it stalling out it eventually died anyway could get it restarted for a bit with carb cleaner I got about 20 feet before it died again

I cranked the engine it turned ok but no start went to crank again and as soon as I got to run position all power went out dome lights everything

pulled and checked fuses they all looked good truck magically had power again truck started died then same power problem

in run and start I had absolutly no power at all accessory position worked

anyway pretty much nothing works accessory too

battery is just above 12 volts all fuses good the light on my cell phone charger is on and with the key in run position the gear indicator light comes on that is it no domes no brake lights nothing else

Does that all run through the vehicle control module?
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOMMYMCTY
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  • 1998 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 240,000 MILES
I've been having an issue with my truck listed above k1500. It is having a hard starting lately but when it does it runs fine. I have already changed my cap and rotor. Has a new fuel pump on it and is not throwing any codes. Sometimes it will start fine other times I will have to crank then stop a good 4 times sometimes even a dozen. My fuel pressure is holding tight at 55psi.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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Get a can of starting fluid next time you have a hard start spray it into the throttle body. Then tried to start it.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOMMYMCTY
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I Want To Fix My Problem Not Have To Spray Starting Fluid In Everytime Unless Its A Method You Use To troubleshoot
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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This test will tell us whether your getting fuel to the injectors or not. You will need to start here.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTOSS
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You need to hook it to a code reader that will show live data when it is not starting look at things like coolant temp, Intake air temp and readings like that a sensor may not be setting a code but may be giving false readings to ecm.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)

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