Will not start

What engine do you have? Last time it ran? Background? Any changes from original?Let's see if this might be a fuel issue. The high rev is not a big deal now, we will adjust that later. Do this outside and with a big wet towel and a fire extinguisher real handy.

Smothering with the towel is first line of defense, the extinguisher is last resort should a fire occur. Find you a cleaned out squirt bottle, I like the adjustable ones that have the round adjuster. Fill it with gas maybe a 1/3 of the way full. Have someone crank while you squirt some fuel into the carburetor throat. Should not take a lot of fuel to make it bust off and run. Now if it is running, continue to nurse it along with the squirt bottle as it starts to die out. How long can you keep it running? Twenty seconds? Thirty? Longer?

The Medic

Glad to see you getting him ready to rule the roads again.

New carburetor? Now or new five years ago?

Still using points in the distributor?

I have been contemplating discs on the front of my 1946 (maybe rear too). I have seen homemade or Frankenstein versions sorta reasonable, then there are the kits from sites, $700.00-$1,000.00 or more, just are not real inviting.

My brakes work correctly, for 1946 standards, but 9" just do not stop like 11"!

Then there is the "OMG, gear down, swerve, maybe jump the curb!" moments when I am not driving in the "grandma mode" and need to stop right now!

I pretty much have it down pat on how to use the brakes of seventy one years ago, however the everyday brakes of the 1977 sort of spoil me and transitioning back to the 1946 sometimes takes a little refresher time.

On my 1946, fixed shoes at the bottom, drums are pressed onto the hubs (pain to get to the shoes). Adjustments are all manual and very difficult to do.

These kind of memories from each time steer me more and more towards the discs.

We like to see what is pulling into our garage, snap us a picture or two!

The Medic

Your Distributor originally has points in it. My '46 (with Flathead 4 cyl) has similar ones

SEE PIC 1

I upgraded mine to "Pertronics", a simple electronic ignition system made for specific distributors (no more playing with points for me!)

People change stuff over the years, I wanted to know what we were dealing with, should it be a spark issue.

SEE PICs 2 and 3

My questions/Tests were aimed at "do you not have spark?" or "do you not have fuel?"

Obviously you have spark!

Your fuel ain't getting there, somewhere between the tank and getting into the carb throat

As we proved it will run if you dump fuel into the throat (since it ain't getting there on it's own).

Many possibilities along the way.

My firstus test would be to take a rubber line loose near the carb and turn the engine over a few times to see if fuel is pumping up to that point. Again, Outside with Fire Equipment!

Depending on your results, we will know which direction to go.

Earlier you mentioned fuel coming out of the vacuum port, this "could/maybe/ possibly" indicate your carbs float being (or was) stuck up (open, needle valve not shutting off).

This above situation might let the carbs fuel bowl overfill and fuel start running out any hole it can find.

During your carb installation, did you back hold the carbs fuel inlet with a wrench to prevent it from turning while you installed the fuel line?

If you just "cranked it on in" and the carb fitting turned (no backhold) this coulda messed up the float setting) Some call this "flooding" but actually it's "overfilling"

Enough of that

You might also try running your mix screws in till they EVER SO LIGHTLY touch bottom (turning 'em in hard WILL DAMAGE THE CARB!)

For now, back them out 2 turns (we may move 'em to 3 turns if 2 ain't enough)

For giggles, give it a whirl!

Results?

Sending you a link to look over. For now, it's a guide for later on when we can KEEP IT RUNNING! We're not to that point yet!

Please check out the mix screw adjustments that will occur later (and why!) That will be nearer the end of the thread I'm sending.

Keep in mind, I'm using my inline 6 cylinder 258 pics ('77 CJ-5) to guide this feller with a 304 (8 cylinder). THE THEORY IS THE SAME FOR YOURS!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

OK

Rear axles on "Willy" are tapered with a keyway

I leave my wheel on and on the ground.

I remove the dust cap, cotter pin, and castle nut

I install my CJ MEDEVAC whizzy tool

Whizzy Tool- a nut with the same threads as the castle nut, this nut is welded on the outside to a 1/4 piece of flat steel. Flat steel bends outward slightly

Run Mr. Whizzy tool down until the flat steel bottoms out on the end of the axle (this keeps the threads from giving and the axle from mushrooming)

There is/ should be about an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch gap between the whizzy nut and the hub. (No gap will not let the axle move independently of the hub-in other words it not work! Gotta have the gap!)

Wheel is on the ground!

Draw back about 3-4 feet with your sledge hammer and smack the whizzy tool directly over the nut.

Usually the 1st lick does it, every now and again a second lick may be necessary.

This breaks the taper loose from the hub.

Jack up the wheel, remove lug nuts, remove whizzy tool, remove wheel, slip the hub off.

THIS WILL NOT WORK FOR '76-'86 CJs, their axles are splined and cut their own splines in the hub.

SEE PIC 4

NOTE
Your drums are pressed onto the hubs using the wheel studs, press the studs out, they will separate. A new drum can be installed in reverse order.

Send update!

The Medic

How fast did you get half a jar of fuel? (Estimated seconds)

Choke: cable rusty?/ Tight turns in the cable?/ Kinks in the cable?/ Can you take it loose at the carb, straighten the end, pull it all the way out, straighten out any kinks along the inner cable, reinstall.

Note: Most carbs require the throttle be turned and held open when pulling the choke on (with your hand, or using the accelerator pedal.)

So far, it's sounding like a carb issue (float could be stuck up or close, the bowl may not be filling to it's correct level or maybe the needle and seat are stuck, again, the bowl is not filling.

The choke may be able to vacuum the fuel to the top and it starts, when what little bit of the fuel runs out it dies. (Fuel should already be towards the top of the bowl, venturi effect would make it go into the throat)
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We have not even mentioned possible vacuum leaks, have you looked for any? Know how? Do you smoke?
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Converting to Pertronics electronic ignition- need your distributor number-is there a tag on the body? Brand/ number?

I'd wait on this until it is running, as it must be running to set the timing. I will look for it using the info you find so it can be obtained.

Shoot me a few pics of the engine, remove the air cleaner so I can see better.

The Medic

Can you touch the float?

Will it move downward freely?

1st try- push it ever so slowly, did if feel like it was sorta stuck/ or binding in the up position?

Like how fast does it run? Like wide open or a high idle?

How long does it run before it dies?

This has a mechanical fuel pump and not a 'lectric one?

Are any ports on the carb missing hoses or not being capped off?

Same for the intake manifold, anything left open?

Hoses- any Tees and or hoses open to open air?

The Medic

When you snatched the carb top off, was there fuel in the bowl?

Did you get the choke to move more freely?

When you nursed to keep it running for 30 seconds, was it running wide open like when you made it run on it's own for 2-5 seconds?

After you reassemble the carb, (ready to go)

Send me another pic of it, as close to the same shot/ position as you sent with the last pic.

Sorry I'm not performing a miracle real fast here, hands on is so much EZer. You don't live right down the road from me here in South Carolina, do ya!

The Medic

Upside down makes it all fun!

I'm slowly working on you!

Here's my latest masterpiece, you probably already knew this.

See "right side up" pic below

The Medic