No Spark?

Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOUCAN4
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 192,000 MILES
No spark to plugs.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good morning,

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view. Make sure there is power to both the ignition module and the coil at the wires I highlighted.

When you crank the engine, does the tachometer move up a little? Trying to see if the crank sensor is working.

Roy
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MRCGAINER
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 99,120 MILES
Motor turns will not start these parts were replaced coil timing belt control module crankshart sensor
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
Then either you have a bad ignition module or a bad coil.

Is it distrbutied or is it DIS?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SWOOPS
  • MEMBER
  • FORD RANGER
1994 Ford Ranger Super Cab. 2WD, 5sp manual transmission, 3.0 V-6 engine. 274,000 miles. I was driving home yesterday when the engine just stalled. I'm absolutely sure that I'm getting fuel, but not spark. I've pulled an ignition wire with the plug, held it close to the block when cranking, there is no spark. I'd replaced the distributor cap, rotor, plugs & wires within the last 3 months. I replaced the coil today. Still no spark. My repair manual hints at an EDIS distrubutor ignition module secured somewhere near my radiator support, but I cannot find or identify it. Can you discribe this better than my manual does in finding & replacing this unit, & could this be my problem?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SWOOPS
  • MEMBER
Ok, I changed the distributor ignition module today. I still have no spark to the spark plugs. I unplugged the primary wire to the coil & the tester light comes on there when cranking, but for some reason, I'm still not getting spark through to the plugs. I'm out of ideas. Any suggestions?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SWOOPS
  • MEMBER
I've found my solution. It turns out that I was correct in my "assumption" that I wasn't getting spark. I didn't need a tester to know that my self-tested plugs weren't firing. I went to the parts store & bought a distributor & installed it. After I'd figured out how to set the timing order to 10 degrees BTDC & set my distributer where the rotor button was near hitting the number one plug, it fired right back up. It was simply a matter of then turning my distributor until it came back into time. Thank you guys for all your suggestions.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIREWOP65
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
My truck stopped runner and I found I have no spark
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHER1
  • MEMBER
There is a few more things you need to check to get the whole picture.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JRJ04
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 65,000 MILES
Truck just wouldn't start one day changed plugs, wires, coil pack, ecm computer, crankshaft sensor, battery, fuses, relays, alternator and im still getting no fire to my plugs? Any suggestions ive been on this project for over a month now.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
Do you have an anti theft system in vehicle, aftermarket or stock? If so, is anti theft light flashing or staying solid? May also want to try different key.
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-2
Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NICKOLAOSF
  • EXPERT
Hi,

We can help you with this information. This engine has two ignition coils (intake and exhaust, it sounds that you will have to start from the begging, start with spark at the wire, if you see some spark, move to checking fuel pressure and power to injectors, there should be on right side foot area inertia switch, (find and press the button if have not ).
Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers, Nick
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 6:54 PM

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