Engine starter not working?

Tiny
BWINDLE72
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  • 2 POSTS
It starts at 12.54 when I turn key it drops go 5.7.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,904 POSTS
Yep that battery sounds like it is bad. Here is a guide to help you change it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Please let us know what happens so it will help others.

Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TABOOGMAN
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  • 2005 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
The car will experience a NO start condition. When the ignition key is turned the starter will not engage. However, after removing the baterry cables for a few seconds and re-installing them the car will start normally. It will then work for several starts, but then will repeat the same condition. The battery is new and the cables are clean. What could be causing this issue?
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MCKENZIEBS
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  • 1 POST
  • 2005 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 51,000 MILES
It will not start and the anti theft lock light is on. Tried
unhooking and rehooking battery, lock and unlock door, jumped the battery. What's up?
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WHIPPLE1386
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See below
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-1
Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WHIPPLE1386
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Your PAT (Passive Anti Theft) system has put your car on lock down. The only way to get past this is to get it to the dealer. They have a special program that will unlock it for you. A lot of the time when you unhook the battery, especially in newer cars, they tend of freak out. Kind of like having to put in a radio code when you change a battery, only worse. Should be a quick fix though.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TMS
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  • 2005 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 58,000 MILES
My vehical after a full day of driving wouldn't start last night. When I put the key into the ingnition and turn all the way forward the motor won't turn over. Sometimes the radio and interior lights will come on.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
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I would suspect the battery
check battery terminals and battery
try given it a jump start
check charging system after starting
good luck
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRIS.HAYES01
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  • 2005 FORD ESCAPE
  • 55,000 MILES
Turn key all the way - all dash lights come on, car has power (radio, windows, etc.) - But car does not start. Does not crank, etc. Nothing. Tried both keys in case it was the key. Won't start. Played around with it for about 20 minutes, car suddenly starts when key is turned like nothing ever happened. Car runs fine for 3 weeks. One day - car will not start again. Mechanic plays around with it for 20 minutes, everything has power, car will not start. All of a sudden - car is fine.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
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When it wont start, check for power at starter solenoid ignition wire when key is held to start.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMDOSS74
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  • 13 POSTS
  • 2005 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 225,000 MILES
About 2 months ago the engine was stalling out on a roadtrip. Assumed it was the fuel pump. Replaced it. Over the weekend it happened again. Plugged it into my OBD2, and it said I had a bad fuel rail pressure sensor. I have one on order. Now tonight we were leaving my sister's, about 6 blocks away we were sitting at a very long light. Just as it turned green, the truck stalled and wouldn't start again. By not starting I mean, no crank. I pushed it into a parking lot, put cables on it, assuming my new battery died. Checked with a meter, had well over 14v while connect and even 12.9 after. Still nothing. Signs would point to a starter if I had shut it off, but the truck stalled and died. I didn't have a lot of time to spend with it before my sister showed up with tow straps and drove us home. I am a pretty avid mechanic. I've never seen anything like this. It's not even trying to put power to the starter, because the lights wont try and dim while turning the key. It is also making a weird buzzing sound in the radiator area with the ignition key in the on position. Noticed that when I was hooking the straps. Never heard that before, and I have been under the hood of this thing for years. Looked at the anti theft light also, it wasn't flashing with the key in the start position either. This is a new one to me, and can't find any threads or videos either.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Good morning,

When you tested the battery, was it without the battery cable or jumper cables on it?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Was the charging system voltage at 12.9 with the engine running?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

It sounds like a low voltage issue from a possible charging system issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

I attached a wiring diagram of the charging system for you. If you have a test light or voltmeter, we can do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMDOSS74
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It isn't a voltage issue. 12.9 is as it sits. Again nothing dims as you try and crank. Something is telling the starter not to engage.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, does the security light go out after about 10 seconds with the key on?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

I attached a wiring diagram for yo of the starting system. Do you have a test light or voltmeter to do some testing?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Even when we find the issue for not cranking, we still have to find out why it stalled.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Did you or do you have a second key for the car? I am wondering if you have a key issue.

Roy
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMDOSS74
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I really didn't pay much attention to the security light. And yes, I tried both keys. I do have a volt meter. I haven't had a chance to try testing everything yet. I am going over after work this evening with all my tools and meters. Also see if anything scans on the OBD2.
However I feel the stall and no crank are related.
Also I had the PCM rebuilt a few months ago. By a reputable company, replaced all coils and plugs.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOJOHNSTON
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  • 2005 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
When I turn the key on the engine will not crank because the shift indicator square does not appear on the P for park. I have changed the shift indicator/position sensor and the ignition switch but still does not work.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
See if you can get the shifter to go into either n or p as you probably screwed up replacing the neutral switch. Then try resetting your security system to see if it will start. There is a special tool to align the neutral switch or range selector. You may have to have your trans cable adjusted or it was stretched to begin with.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, let me know the results.

The common denominator is the ECM itself but testing needs to be done before going there.

Roy
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMDOSS74
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Yes, that image is the PCM which I had rebuilt a couple months ago.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:16 PM (Merged)

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