2005 Neon died while driving and wont start

Tiny
VQPOWERED
  • 2005 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES

I have a 2005 dodge neon that died on me while I was it. It would idle a little rough but drove normal before it just died now the car wont start any help would be great.

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 6:50 PM

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Tiny
JDL
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If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the spark plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure.

To check for spark, where applicable remove a spark plug wire, use a spark tester in spark plug wire boot. You can also, use a known good spark plug, don't pull one out of the engine. Ground metal part of tester to metal part of engine, watch for spark. Even with coil on plug ignition, it's the same thing, just remove the coil, stick tester in boot.

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 7:40 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Most common causes are camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. There will usually be a related diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer. Many auto parts stores will read those codes for you for free. Those codes will get you to the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, not necessarily to the defective part.

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
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I checked for spark and I am getting spark. Could it be the timing belt or the crank sensor?

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
JDL
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What about fuel pressure? Some of the national brand autostores used to loan out a fuel pressure gage. Caradiodoc has some good ideas. I wouldn't throw parts at it unless something pointed in that direction.

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 7:57 PM
Tiny
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Havent had a chance to check the fuel pressure yet. Got stuck with the car late at night and spark was the first thing I checked for. When I get home from work later I can check the pressure.

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
JDL
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The autostore sells an obd2 code reader, can't remember how much. If you get one, make sure it will work with your year--make--model. The code doesn't tell you what to replace, just that the computer thinks there is a problem on that circuit somewhere.

Hey, caradiodoc, jump in, I'm just killing time. Have a good day.

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
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Hi JDL. I'm confused by it having spark. On older models it won't if either sensor is defective, but from what I've read, beginning with the early 2000s models, there will be spark if only one sensor fails and I think it can run on just one but the injector firing times will be off a little. I'd still be looking at fuel pressure or fault codes.

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
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So is it safe to rule out a busted timing belt?

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Check for spark on both pairs of cylinders. Unless things have changed for '05 models, if the timing belt is off by one tooth, the Check Engine light will turn on and the stored fault code will be "cam and crank sync". The engine won't run well either. At two teeth off, the Engine Computer will shut the engine down to protect the valves. At three teeth off, the open valves will hit the pistons and be bent.

On the single cam engine, there was a common problem with the dowel pin between the camshaft and sprocket shearing off, and the sprocket would turn slightly on the camshaft. The timing marks would be correct, but the camshaft itself would be late. The camshaft position sensor would pick that up because it's at the other end of the camshaft. The symptom often is a no-start condition with one of the two coils firing intermittently so it looks like you have spark when you really don't.

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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
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I didnt notice that the timing cover had a little rubber plug toward the top of it. I pulled the plug off and noticed the the belt wasnt on the cam gear. I just hope I didnt bend the valve checking for spark.

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Tuesday, August 16th, 2011 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
JDL
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Sounds like your headed in the right direction. Hope nothing was damaged?

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Tuesday, August 16th, 2011 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
TANYA KEEFE
  • MEMBER

Had this problem today. Car was running and then stopped randomly while I was idling at an intersection and would not even try to turn over. My husband came, and after a brief inspection, found a burned out 20 amp Control fuse. Second up on left on driver side. He said it was an AP/ something. Fuse box is under the hood on the upper corner by the driver's side. (In case anyone reading this doesn't know)

Jumping the car hadn't worked. The OBD reader wasn't getting power. Kept telling him while doing his connect to turn the power on even though it was.

Instantly when he changed it, the car started just fine. Car is running much smoother too. Not sure what caused the Fuse to blow.

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Sunday, April 30th, 2017 AT 2:32 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Please start a new question for your car. This was an old conversation between just a few people. It shows up on our list as having already received a reply, so most of us will not read your addition or have a chance to reply. That won't get you the help you need.

If you do need to post a question, please be sure to list the engine size, transmission type, and mileage. We need that information to tailor our answers.

For the blown fuse, without digging into a wiring diagram, the best suspect right now is a wiring harness to the oxygen sensors fell down onto hot exhaust parts and is grounding out intermittently. The fuse associated with the heaters in the O2 sensors is the same one that feeds the injectors and ignition coil pack, so those circuits will be dead too.

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 10:15 PM

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