Blend door actuator?

Tiny
SOLO412
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 33,000 MILES
Changed blended door actuator, passenger side, due to chattering, replaced and still get chattering
Thursday, August 21st, 2014 AT 4:06 PM

28 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,407 POSTS
If the new actuator is doing the same thing, I question the power supply. Have you checked to see what voltage is going to the actuator? Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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Where do I check power supply. The other actuators work fine.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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I know I can check it at the disconnect bot I don't know where it gets its feed
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Check power supply where it connects to the actuator.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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If the 12V is low there, where does come from
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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The power comes from the HVAC control module. There should be a tan wire and a Lt green wire to the actuator. To open the door, power is supplied through one wire. To close the door, the HVAC control module reverses polarity to the actuator.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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This problem is really confusing: When I unlock the door with the key, not using the fob, the actuator starts to chatter and stops after about 10 seconds.

It will also start to chatter again periodically. I've got all of the driver's door, radio, instrument cluster electrical connections all disconnected.

There is only one hot wire on my climate control connection, orange. I tried to check continuity on the pin connections on the climate control panel, slide switches for going from hot to cold, and got nothing. I presume the slides are some type of resistance circuits. I do have continuity from the actuator and the climate control harness connector wires.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Wow! I think you need a priest with this car. Lol Listen, I would think there is a ground problem or the body control module is going bad. Check grounds first.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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  • 15 POSTS
The temperature door stays in the cooling mode.
What is the body control module.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Basically, a body control module is a generic term for an electronic control unit responsible for monitoring and controlling various electronic accessories in a vehicle's body.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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I am buying a new body control module and will have it flashed.

There are several electrical issues with my car:
1. Radio speakers in the rear work, but volume is low and speakers in the front don't work.(No corrosion on orange speaker wires by back seat).
2. Key fob won't program.
3. Passenger side temp. Actuator chatters as noted in our chats.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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They can be expensive, so you should confirm your's is bad before just replacing it. The radio issue sounds like the problem is in the radio not the BCM. The other things could be related.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
$105 for the new module and $100 to flash it.

The radio has power and everything works other than sound. The program mode come up like it's supposed to but it won't flash, Press FOB command is supposed to flash in order to program the FOB but, it doesn't.

Why would the back speakers work, faintly, and the front won't if the radio was bad?

Doesn't the BCM have something to do with the radio and HVAC control panel?
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Supply power? Yes, but it doesn't make it function. Often times when this happens to a radio, either there is a wiring issue but more often, the amp in the radio is bad.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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I've tried almost everything?

One issue that I've found is that I can shift out of Park without pressing on the brake but only if the ignition switch is in Acc or On position. I disconnected the 2 switches and can still shift out of park?

Should I remove the console and check the solenoid by the shifter or is there a solenoid there? Could this be the source of my problem?

Steve
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The shift lock solenoid receives power from the brake light switch. Are the brake lights staying on? If not, there either there is a short to power or something isn't together properly.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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I found my problem with the new temp selector actuator! I cut the wires from the bad actuator control panel and spliced in the connector to the drivers side actuator and it worked just fine. The problem was the actuator they sent me was defective also. Too many hours trying to find a ground issue. I gave Rockauto hell and they're sending me a new one.

Still have radio issues and shifter problem but I'll work them out. Thanks for your help.

Steve
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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Now I'm not sure if I found the problem or not!

What tells the actuator motor to shut off. I plug it in and it runs continuously in either direction depending on where I slide the temp resistance slide switch.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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This is with the actuator removed from the damper. Does the actuator motor keep it's 12V feed on all the time depending on the temp setting? I would think that this would eventually break the damper shaft?
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SOLO412
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I can move the damper by hand and let go of it and it always falls closed or possibly open.

I don't know if it's falling closed (open) to allow heat or falling closed (open) to allow air conditioning?
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 5:15 PM

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