ABS C1185 trouble code

Tiny
BUSCOP
  • MEMBER
Hi guys, Russ here from Toronto. My's son's 2003 Windstar Sport (96,000 KM) has the exact problem that is being discussed in this thread. The ABS light and red brake light both are on most of the time.

We just bought this vehicle and today checked and cleaned all the brake components and made sure all the wire and connections were sound. I do believe it is the switch on the font of the master cylinder that is the bug. I was told it was of the "old" style and the replacement switch connects from the side not the bottom. His buddy has a 2002 with the same symptom and it was corrected when he replaced this switch. Am I on the right track?
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Monday, August 6th, 2007 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
J4RACIN
  • MEMBER
Steve - All,

I also have a 2003 Windstar SE Sport with the same problem. As Steve suggested earlier, I disconnected the "speed control deactivation switch" located below the brake master cylinder forward of the fluid reservoir. Mine has been disconnected since 7/28 (ten days) now. Neither the ABS or e-brake (yellow or red) lights have come on while driving. I called Ford parts to locate a replacement "speed control deactivation switch" and here is some information:

Speed control deactivation switch
Ford part #: XW7Z9F924BA (9F924) for short
Price: Ranged from $25.44 to $33.58 depending on dealership. Most were $25.44 (US).

Steve, before I replace this switch, you talked about a jumper wire. If you tell me exactly what to do, I will try this test, but you must explain to me what I must do (I do not want to short out anything). You can explain this to me in a side bar or online. If all tests indicate that the switch is the culprit, I will purchase one and replace it. Please advise.

Jeff
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 8:16 AM
Tiny
BUSCOP
  • MEMBER
Hi Steve, Russ here. When one replaces this switch is there any fluid loss or does the switch not actually contact brake fluid in the master cylinder? (Pressure switch)
I am asking if the system has to be bled after switch replacement?
And to clarify the switch position statement, the old switch plugged in from the bottom and the replacement switch I saw has the plug in the right side towards the fender.

Great forum, great help. It will be more then useful when problems arise with my 2002 F-150 (knock wood).
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 8:21 AM
Tiny
BUSCOP
  • MEMBER
Jeff, thank you very much for getting this information.

Speed control deactivation switch.
Ford part #: XW7Z9F924BA (9F924) for short
Price: Ranged from $25.44 to $33.58 depending on dealership. Most were $25.44 (US).

I will see what the Canadian Price is and let you know.
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 8:23 AM
Tiny
BUSCOP
  • MEMBER
Thanks Steve. I hope Ford gets their act together. I had my F-150 done but only after a few burned!

Canadian Part number from Ford of Canada for the switch is SW-6351. Listed as a brake repair kit and costs $35.78 CDN. Of course its made in Mexico but has the upgraded connector with the fused link. Hmm, keep the receipts.

I will let you know how things go after I replace the switch Wednesday.
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 11:31 AM
Tiny
JBC
  • MEMBER
I am having the exact same problem with my 2001 Windstar. I took it to a mechanic and had the code read and they came back with C1185, C1198, and C1214. C1185 is the internal relay for the ABS control module and controls the othe two associated codes. I called a local Ford dealer and the ABS control module costs about $250.00. This problem is intermittent and has been going on for about six months. I will try unplugging the switch on the master cylinder and see if that clears the lights.
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
SATDIRECTOR
  • MEMBER
I have a 2002 Windstar Sport with ABS light and brake light coming on.

My error codes are; c1185, c1194, c1198, c1210, c1214, c1242, c1246, c1250, c1254.

I only have one connection to master cylinder. Looks like two wires on the side.

Can someone advise?

Bob
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 4:49 PM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
Hello all Scott here from Vermont.

2002 Windstar with close to same problems here.

First off red brake light off in morning, after engine warms up (about ten minutes) red light will illuminate in the following condition.

1) When the vehicles speed decreased to less than two mph with or without braking, the red light comes on. In other words the pedal seems to have nothing to do with it. The red light goes out once I start accelerating again.

The ABS sometimes comes on.

I have a great mechanic that will read the codes for me (for free and twelve-pack when I am done.) Last week when this started there was only a stored code for the right rear wheel speed sensor. He cleared that code and it has not re-occurred.

Since then the ABS light has come one sometimes and it throws the c1185 code.

I have disconnected all my master cylinder sensors and the e-brake switch and the brake light remains an issue subject to the same speed thing described above. When it is cold the problem is not there!

I have tried a master cylinder and the problem is still there. I have a right rear speed sensor on order.

I was getting the brake light and sporadic ABS prior to my brake job. I hoped the brake job would fix it. Well at least I know my pads and shoes are good.

My bet is that speed sensor. But hey I am glad to hear I am not alone.

My mechanic's assistant seems to think the only thing that throws the red is the fluid level and the e-brake. I think I disagree, but I am just a Saturday mechanic and a computer programmer. When I replaced the master cylinder I cleaned the float as it seemed sticky. But that did not solve the problem. I wonder if the float is bad?

More thinking on the speed sensor. Rear brake cylinders were bad and I replaced. With them bad, there was little heat generated back there. Is the new heat causing the speed sensor to fail? Did any of you have the rear cylinder replaced?
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
SATDIRECTOR
  • MEMBER
Hello all,

Satdirector back again. 2002 Windstar Sport.

I found the speed control deactivation switch at the front and just under master brake unit.

I disconected and now do not have any ABS or brake light after test drive at all speeds.

Shorted the connecter with copper wire and taped with electrical tape. Cruise control works fine.

Will order and replace switch and post outcome.
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 7:40 PM
Tiny
RAK
  • MEMBER
Hi Buscop,

To answer your question regarding fluid loss: The Ford shop manual (2001) does not mention fluid loss when replacing the deactivation switch. It cautions you to make sure that the master cylinder reservoir cap is secure before you perform the procedure. However, you are required to add a few drops of brake fluid to the fluid port on the threaded side of the new switch before installation. The shop manual then requires that you check the master cylinder fluid level and adjust if necessary.

Before installing the new switch, disconnect the battery.

Hope this helps.

RAK :D
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
BRIANHVAC
  • MEMBER
Windstar 2002 LX 56,000 miles. I had the local shop check codes and I have a list of brake codes all circuit failures. Will try to stop Thursday at get codes list. This seems to be related to the recent recall from Ford for other cars, vans and trucks. I seem to think it is a ground or power problem or a short causing the abs to restart itself. Going on vacation sat not much time to troubleshoot. I called the National Deptartment of Transportation Vech. Safety Hotline 1-888-327-4236, The first step in a possible recall issued. Would suggest others to call. Ford was no help. I am trying to see if a Bulletin was issued.
No information from dealer would not look up TSB's for me. But did say something about short in wiring in headliner being pinched? Take it for what it is worth. 9f924 switch is $26.97 with tax.
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2007 AT 6:19 AM
Tiny
JBC
  • MEMBER
Greetings all,

Last night I disconnected the cruise control deactivation switch on the front of the master cylinder and test drove the vehicle at various speeds and tested the brakes from slow stop to very hard stops and the lights did not come on. I will be going on vacation next week and will leave the switch disconnected and install a jumper wire to have cruise control. Overall will be driving about 1,400 miles so this should be a good test to see if the lights stay off. Appreciate all of the help, will let you know what happens. By the way, my sister had an 2000 Explorer and she had the exact same problem the dealer wanted to change the ABS control module and the hydraulic control valve. They just traded it in on a new one.
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2007 AT 7:22 AM
Tiny
BUSCOP
  • MEMBER
Well today I replaced the "speed control deactivation switch" with a new unit from Ford.
Well those two lights are still lit and our next step will to be to get a code reading then off to the extended warranty people to get them to replace the ABS module as it is covered.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/91150_SW6351JPG_1.jpg

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Wednesday, August 8th, 2007 AT 10:52 AM
Tiny
BUSCOP
  • MEMBER
Scott, the original problem was that the ABS and red brake dash lights would come on and stay on while driving. The van was thoroughly checked and all wires and connections were okay.
This was not all the time however. There would be days when the lights stayed off for a whole trip. I guess you could call it an intermittent problem. So doing the age old process of elimination we started at the wheels and are working our way towards the ABS Module. Replacing the speed control deactivation switch (SW-6351) was in the process. It works in some cases.

Next step is to get the codes read, then go after the extended warranty people to replace the module. We will see.
Ford is no help.
Maybe it is time to start Facebook group for Ford Windstar brake problems?

So hopefully our resident mechanics will have something to say soon.
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2007 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
SATDIRECTOR
  • MEMBER
I installed new deactivation switch and brake and ABS lights came back on

So I put the old switch back in and shorted connection to get cruise control back and voila.

The ABS light and brake light are off and the cruise works.

Also hitting the brake deactivates the cruise.

Go figure.

So can someone help?
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2007 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
JBC
  • MEMBER
Well, after disconnecting the deactivation switch the lights stayed off for two days but came on again today. Guess I am down to the ABS control module replacement, but will hold off to see if anyone has another solution.

JBC
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Thursday, August 9th, 2007 AT 12:12 PM
Tiny
BUSCOP
  • MEMBER
Where in the vehicle is the ABS module located? Is it under the hood or under the dash, driver's side? I would like to make sure all connections there are tight and clean.
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Thursday, August 9th, 2007 AT 1:25 PM
Tiny
DRHENG
  • MEMBER
Hello all. New person to the problem.
I also have a 2003 SE Windstar with this problem.
Just happened for the first time last week with my wife driving. Since then it has happened twice more while she is driving. Turn off the engine and the lights go off stays off. Has occurred during normal driving either while hitting brakes or just driving.
Has occurred just this afternoon, prompting my search for the problem.
I will follow the unplugging the switch suggestion and report back.
In Alabama it is in the upper nineties for the past two weeks, so I figure that is a contributing factor.
Van has 56,000 miles. No traction control. I have replaced the front pads once several months ago. Purchased the van used in 2005 with 35,000 miles.
Only other issue I have is the whine from the power steering during turning. I have not searched for a link for that.
Great information here. I will call NHTSA next week to add one more to the list.
Also own 1999 F150 four wheel drive and 1996 Bonneville. Hope the Windstar is not another Bonneville.
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Friday, August 10th, 2007 AT 4:42 PM
Tiny
KAMREID
  • MEMBER
I have the same problem with my 2002 Windstar ABS light. I have over 225,000 kilometers on the van. During the recent hot weather, the ABS light has been coming on. It comes on most after if I have been driving for a while and stop for five or ten minutes and start driving again. I had the problem checked by a good quality repair shop and they advised that the ABS electronic control unit needed to be replace (about $900.00 parts and labor). I decided not to do the repair. I am going to disconnect the cruse control switch on the master cylinder tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.
Thank you for all of the information posted.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2007 AT 9:40 PM
Tiny
KAMREID
  • MEMBER
Hello everyone. I disconnected the wire from the cruse control deactivation switch on the master cylinder today. I drove for about two hundred kilometers and the yellow ABS light and the red brake light came on again. I guess the problem is not with the cruse control deactivation switch on my van so I have reconnected the wire. Thank you for all the information.
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Sunday, August 12th, 2007 AT 7:33 PM

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