1999 Ford Windstar 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 160, 00 miles
My 99 Windstar is throwing the C1095 code. The light clears when I shut off the vehicle but as soon as I approach 15 mph, it lights again and disables my ABS (I can hear the ABS engage briefly just before the light comes on). I had a bad wheel speed sensor also which I changed and now all are working in sync but the vehicle continues to throw C1095. I checked pins 8 & 24 and both seem to be good grounds b/c they light my test light when going from pin 9 to either of them. They do give strange readings tho'. Scale always changes to M Ohms? Pin 9 definitely has 12 V (I haven't checked 25 yet with the ignition on). When I attempt a self-test with my buddies scanner, I can hear the ABS motor engaging over and over for about 30 seconds but then it aborts the test and says " unable to complete self-test, check cable connections". When the vehicle is on the hoist it will never throw the code despite accelerating well past 20 mph. Where do I go from here? I am still hoping I don't have to change the whole HCU.
Ok it sounds like you are going to have to replace the HCU. Between pin 9 (light blue/pink) and ground what is the voltage? Between pin 8 (black wire) what is the resistance (ohms). Get back to me with that using a digital multi meter and I will let you know if the pump is bad or not. Thanks
November, 26, 2008 AT 9:13 PM
I checked pins 8 and 24 and both are good grounds measuring around 3 or 4 ohms resistance. So if this means a bad HCU, then can I trust a used one from the scrap-yard? Is the bad pump most likely siezed? (It sounds like it is siezed when I try to run the self-test with the scanner). What is a good price for a used one? Is there any tips or tricks I should know? What do I have to do after I change the HCU? Thanks for your help, Deano
November, 28, 2008 AT 9:57 AM
Ok but what is the voltage between pin 9 and ground? As for replacing it the book calls for 2 hours to replace it. Dealer price is 525.93 with out traction control and 454.00 with. As far as getting one from a salvage yard just look for a low mileage vehicle to get one from I don't see many of the ford ones go bad.
Bleeding sequence is as such Front first and it is LF then RF. Then you go to rear and it is LR then RR. Make sure to diconnect the neg. Bat. Cable when you go to replace it. If you need anything else just let me know.
November, 29, 2008 AT 12:43 PM
There is 12 V b/w pin 9 and ground. Why would it be more for NON-traction as opposed to traction control?
December, 1, 2008 AT 10:46 AM
Good qrestion about the price don't know, I guess one is more popular then the other. This is the power voltage and should be hot all the time so what ever batt. Voltage is at least 10.5 or better ok.