Engine cranks will not start up and run?

MADMANSVOID

MEMBER
2001 HONDA CIVIC
1.7L
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
183,000 MILES

I bought the car listed above EX in October. First off, I got my license on December 26th, 2019. I was working fine but then I stopped to get some food and I’m sitting in the parking lot and then all of sudden I got a rough idle. It went away but then I started to drive and it would only go up to about 2,000 rpm and max out at about 20 mph. I coasted it home and turned it off. It then wouldn’t start. It sounded like it was cranking but wouldn’t start. I pulled the codes P1362 and P1361. I watched tutorials and did the repair and replaced the top dead center sensor that went bad. After doing that it started and was drive-able. But, when test driving it would stutter when shifting and would have a rough idle. I looked and we forgot to plug in the map sensor. We re-plugged it in and worked like new. I then drove it to a friends house for New Year’s Eve and the next day and I go to leave but it wouldn’t start. It sounded like it was cranking but not starting. We got the code reader and pulled the code P0108 which turned out to be the MAP sensor. After replacing that part it still wouldn’t start. The next day we tried to see if it would start even using carburetor cleaner to see if that would help in anyway. It still would start so we towed my car about 5 miles or so to Belle Tire. They checked it and said the spark plugs were bad. They replaced them and it started and ran like a champ. The next day it started but sounded a little weary when starting. After a day of driving to work and back it was fine. The next day I went to go start it but it wouldn’t. We then talked to Belle Tire and they said they couldn’t do anything over the phone and we’d have to tow it to them again. We then called my uncle who owns a mechanic shop in Utah and he said that it’s a common issue with older Civic's that when starting you should hold down the accelerator and turn it on and it should start. Well we tried that and it worked. It started good for a couple days and I was able to go to school and what not. I then come out this morning to go to school but it would not start. We tried the trick of holding the accelerator down but it still wouldn’t start. Sorry that it was a lot but I’m just trying to figure out what could be wrong with it. Anything will help and I appreciate your responses. Also, we’ve put in a new starter and a new battery. Thanks!

1 Reply

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,289 POSTS

Hi,

First, great job on your original diagnosis and fixing it yourself. Most people won't even try. As far as the new issue, do you check to see if there are diagnostic trouble codes again? I have a feeling it is related to the TDC sensor you replaced but before I start suggesting diagnosing those codes, let me know if they have returned.

Now, if it won't start with starting fluid, then my guess is there is no ignition spark to the plugs, so please confirm that for me. To get started, here are a couple links to help. First is the most common cause for a crank no start condition. The second explains how to test fuel pressure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Check for spark and to see if the diagnostic trouble codes returned and let me know what you find.

____________________

I decided to add the diagnostics for the original codes. Take a look through them and let me know if you feel comfortable following them'. The attached pics are of the connectors which indicate which pins are being checked.
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2001 Honda Civic DX Sedan L4-1668cc 1.7L SOHC MFI
P1361
Vehicle ALL Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection P Code Charts P1361
P1361
DTC P1361: TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption

1. Reset the ECM/PCM.
2. Start the engine.

Is DTC P1361 and/or P1362 indicated?

YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the TDC sensor and at the ECM/PCM.

3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Disconnect the TDC sensor 3P connector.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

pic 1

6. Measure voltage between TDC sensor 3P connector terminal No.3 and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay 1 and the TDC sensor

pic 2

7. Measure voltage between TDC sensor 3P connector terminal No.2 and body ground.

Is there about 5 V?

YES - Go to step 8.

NO - Go to step 10.

pic 3

8. Measure voltage between TDC sensor 3P connector terminals No.1 and No.3.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 9.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the TDC sensor and G101.

9. Substitute a known-good TDC sensor and recheck.

Is DTC P1361 and/or P1362 indicated?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Replace the original TDC sensor.

pic 4

10. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A26 and body ground.

Is there about 5 V?

YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A26) and TDC sensor.

NO - Go to step 11.

11. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
12. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (31P).

pic 5

13. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A26 and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A26) and the TDC sensor.

NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

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Let me know what you find.

Joe

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